A customer called our attention to this thread and question on the cush hub. Looked into it and as long as you have a Husky hub with the 4 mounting bolts on the disc side, then Rad has a cush hub that will fit. You can use existing stock rotor & sprocket and hub comes complete with bearings, seals, and correct external spacers. The actual billet hub including carrier & rubber dampeners is $549 in any color. To our knowledge you cannot use cush hub from KTM on this model without several modifications and needing to use KTM rotor. Breakdown for full wheel: Good: $88 Lace & true $120-130 Pro Wheel rim or similar $85 Rad Spoke & Aluminum Nipple Kit $549 Billet Rad Cush Hub $842-852 Total Best: $111 Superlace & True $150-170 for Excel Takasago or DID Dirtstar rim depending on color, $229 for Excel A60 or DID LTX rim $125 Supersize Stainless Spoke & Stainless Nipple Kit $549 Billet Rad Cush Hub $935-1014 Total (depending on rim) The Superlace wheel will be far superior and have far less maintenance than the good wheel. Thanks, Chris
Chris, can you build the wheel without my old wheel there? In other words do you have all the dimensions and offsets so that it will fit? I could transfer the rotor and sprocket myself.
One further question Chris, what exactly is different about a 'Superlace & True' compared to a normal 'Lace and True'? EDIT: Nevermind, I believe this would be the answer to that: http://www.woodyswheelworks.com/superlace.html
I had Woody superlace new rims on my TR650 and I can confirm that they are Herky! Much stronger than the original setup!
Ken are you using your stock rim or ordering a new one? Did Woody's answer whether the stock rim could be re-used? If you're buying a new one are you bumping the width up to 2.5" as stock rim is only 2.15" _
All new, hub and rim, so I can keep my old wheel intact. May keep it or may sell it; not sure. Same rim size as stock so I can use the Tubliss system and yes, they can use the stock rim if you choose. I figured in for a penny in for a pound. I also up graded the bearings as I didn't want All Balls.
Good stuff Kenneth, hope it works out well for you. For me, I've got a bit of sticker shock since a complete rim landed in Australia is over a $1000, i'll get smashed with import duties and GST which really drives up the cost. I might have to just get a hub and then source the rim and so forth locally. The downside to that is missing out on the super lace, but I figure I've never had it before and I survived; so I can probably live without having it in future
Just my take on it: I think the super lace is a great thing because the spokes don't need adjustment as often. Loose spokes/misaligned wheels are usually the reason for broken spokes and reduce the strength of the wheel assembly in a big way, which lead to bent rims and broken hubs. Regular wheel maintenance is very important IMO. I usually check spoke tension/alignment at every DS tire change and more often with all new wheel assemblies. The conventionally laced rims that I have bent and observed with proper spoke tension may have been the weak link in the chain that avoided more expensive damage like frame, fork, hub, swing arm etc damage. Rims are cheap and easy to repair/replace in comparison. Maybe it's why wheels have been laced that way since close to forever?
been pricing some ktm parts to build a cush hub, this is what i came up with, was planning to use my wheel, you guys think this will work?
Sorry you'd have to ask someone in the know on those part numbers. Either that or get all the relevant dimensions/measurements and I could cross check them against the measurements on the RAD cush hub. http://www.radmfg.com/Cush-Series-REAR-HUB-125-up-p/radh-eq-1r.htm http://www.radmfg.com/Cush-Series-Rear-wheel-kit-125-up-p/radwk-eq-1r.htm
Talked to Chris at Woody's and he's putting together a quote for a full set. Red RAD hubs (cush in rear), black rims, superlaced SS spokes and upgraded bearings. I'm going with a 2.50" rim in the back and a 1.85" rim in the front. I plan on running the GoldenTyre 216AA in the front and the Dunlop 908RR in the rear. The 90/100-21 front tire size should work fine on the 1.85" wide rim. My riding is 50/50 and I think this will work well. I've got a 1.6 on the front of my Husaberg FE570, but I use it 80% offroad and appreciate the sharper steering on tight trails. Update: Received the new wheels and couldn't be happier. Here they are with new rotors, new sprocket, a Dunlop D908 and a Goldentyre fatty upfront.
You luck bugger, how I wish I could have a Berg 570 as well - I hope you ride both bikes hard! The wheel isn't cheap, but as covered elsewhere it can help mitigate drivetrain wear, should stay straight longer and looks pretty cool in my opinion.
I had to have a 70 degree 'Berg before they all disappeared. I bought one of their FS supermotos first and then stumbled across a sweet deal on a lightly used FE. Buying both within a few months of each other cleaned out my toy fund, but I have no regrets. Wouldn't get rid of either of them. The Husky is my true dual purpose ride. I've got several street bikes too, but I'm beginning to thin the herd down to a few favorites. If you ever get the chance to pick up a 570 Berg, you won't be disappointed.
So..... $850-$1150 pending on what I want and this is just for the rear rim! Hmmmm....... Soooooo......what is the cost for a new front hub using my old rim? What's the total for both?
I think a rim is a little under 200. I didn't want to ship my wheel to them and just got the whole thing. Now I have a spare rear wheel.
