You shouldn't have to re-rivet. Once the cat and muffler have been cut off the inlet cap you should be able to just remove the outlet/sparky cap to access the core. Packed looser, it will blow it out faster. I packed mine pretty tight and wired it too. Didn't really want to re-visit it any time soon. I'd leave it as is and run it for awhile. But yeah, I can't figure out why they don't sound like an aftermarket can since the conversion is virtually identical. The best thing is how cool they run. And the weight loss.
Yeah, not ideal for quick re-packing, but the Aluminum rivets I used for the end cap are still holding tight and are easier to drill out than the factory stainless ones. If they worked loose or sheared I was going to swap them for SS, but there's no reason...
Yep. Same deal here, 'cept mine are only on the inlet cap. With RTV everything is holding tight for about a thousand miles now. Couldn't be happier.
I've got about 2500 on the opened cans, sound hasn't changed noticeably and everything's still in one piece
i left the apark arresters on. it was too mich to cut with a hack saw.. my dremel burned out in the process.. so i left the spark arrester.. does it make the pipes sound different? i rtv on both end caps also
He may be confusing the glass-packed endcap for a spark arrestor. Leaving the endcaps that way when you open up the cans shouldn't make too much difference in sound or flow unless you do what I did and open the endcaps too...
Makes sense. Yeah, you need the sparky for an offroader. It's integrated with the end cap and fastened to the can with machine screws. Nice little stainless star-drive screws. Matter of fact, I need one - buggered it putting it back in.
Ya know, I am really starting to be pleased with my choice of the Leo Vince single system , less weight and mucking about, more time riding. and gotta love the sound!
lol.. im happy with how the cans look stock.. if aftermarket cans looked that much more different or better i would probably save up and buy.. i cant justify spendind that much on pipes.. because if i were to get cans it would more likely be a full system.. and thats just to much $$$
I also like the looks of the stock cans. My single FMF looks nice also but not that much different from stock. The big difference for me was the much cleaner and simpler look of the FMF heat shield vs the larger and overlapping stock ones. Looks way better IMO. But really the only reason I switched was weight, heat and to free up right side of bike. Its a dirt bike so i don't really care about looks, if I did I would wash the mud off of it more often. Clean in photo because exhaust just installed, I don't like to wrench on a dirty bike. _
If I was to go 'aftermarket' the FMF would top my shopping list. Looks great! BTW, can't tell what rear tire you got on there - looks pretty good.
Painted mine black, and I'm in the middle of coating all the white plastic in black Plasti-Dip. I'll post pictures when it's done...
Kenda K778 Enduro Sticky. Sticky being a slightly softer compund than below link for the Enduro only version. Great off road but wears quickly on the slab. I burnt through my first one in less than 1,000 miles as I put on high miles connecting trails. Been known to ride 300 miles round trip just to get to riding area for a day in the dirt. Tire is directional, one way for soft and the other direction for intermediate terrain. I have three more in the garage but switching over to the Michelin T63 for now to try and get more miles between tire changes. http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Product/kenda-k778-enduro-rear-tire/328-7580.aspx
At 600 miles so far it looks like my T63 will easily go double that. It's kind of a small tire though, and the knobs start out short. Next up is a 606 or one of those tractionators. Probably try the latter for $100.
the oem rear diablo has almost 1200 miles.. its worn down pass the wear bar.. my last ride on it will be this saturday.. imma get pilot road2. i thought id sage money on tires by riding the husky instead of the r1.. the front still looks new..
