I couldn't stand it anymore, since I had the perforated tubing and packing in-hand... They can't be much more restrictive than the Arrows, for $50 in materials, but not quite as light. They're about 1.75 lb lighter per can than stock because the whole center section with the baffles and cat tube are in the garbage can, and the exit is roughly twice the area... The cans were cool enough to touch for a few seconds after a 30min highway ride home after doing this. Just a bit louder than stock, more "blatty" at high throttle and high RPM's, but I noticed a definite increase in throttle response, but it was a touch lean. Power-on wheelies in first and second from a roll are almost too easy after bumping the JD settings up a bit to richen it back up. Now I'm curious to see what it'll do with the TE ECU... I'll touch up the exit hole a bit with some sanding wheels and brillo pad later, just because I'm picky about my work.
RDTCU where are you located? I'm in Sumter, SC and purchased my 2011 630sms from Upstate. Gerald delivered it to me. I would love to decat my pipes like yours. Also, did removing the smog/gas cannister on the front engine mount help performance? Did you just plug the line after removing it. Was afraid to take mine off as I wasnt sure if it would make the bike run bad.
This approach looks like a good option. What type of specialty tools are needed? I don't have much of a work bench and have no idea where to find a welder. So I'm think I might look at the twin leo slip ons or FMF, worried about hacking up the stock cans and them not going back together. If I could get your results, I'd do it in a heartbeat.
The only performance gain on that is the weight loss... Here's the how too http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/08-emissions-canister.2017/#post-31888
I'm in the upstate, Greenville area. Don't plug the canister line or your fuel tank may swell and start leaking, just replace it with a longer hose or join the in/out hose so any overflow/vapors will be vented to the ground. Cap the nipple on the block with a vacuum line cap.
I just drilled out the case rivets, bandsawed the caps off the inner muffler and cleaned them up, then clamped the tailcap in the mill and used a holesaw to open it up, then tig welded in the short end pipe that the core slips over, and tacked in a thin ring to keep it centered. Then i just wrapped/packed it and put it all back together. For me, each can took about an hour, but i was in a shop with all the right tools available.
Looks like lots of exhaust flow available. Be interesting to see how it would perform if you plugged the right muffler and compared the sound and power level to the two pipe setup. If suitable the right can could be removed and welded shut at the Y. Big weight reduction for minimum $.
My TE 630 inner pipes didn't need cutting on both ends. Rivits only on the inlet side. Torx bits on the outlet side to remove the spark arrestor. Different pipes on the 630's it seems.
What size perforated pipe is that, 1.5"? Does that slip snuggly over the stub pipe on the inlet side? You don't worry about a spark arrestor? thanks
The core is 2" OD, it fits snugly in the tapered section of the inlet, where it flares from ~1.75" up to the diameter of the (now missing) cat. On the outlet side, it was a bit loose on the short 1.625" tube I welded in, so I tacked in a stainless ring to tighten up the fit. As for spark arrestors, practically nobody uses them on the street with flow-throughs, at least not in the US...
So what did you end up using for the internal flow-thru? I suppose with 2" perforated pipe you could tack-weld a connect ring on that end cap, around the sparky piece. I want to do this mod to my cans, any other suggestions?
Unless you can open up the end cap/spark arrestor, I don't think you'll see huge gains other than some weight loss... Ditching the spark arrestor on a trail bike seems like a potential problem though... Decisions, decisions...
