The installed centering rings look like this. Before welding them, I measured the perf pipe for length then cut it off. I cut off 5-3/4" but this may vary. The ring is welded on 1" from the end. It keeps the pref pipe from rattling around. A couple of test fits with it taped on got the position figured out before welding. Rivet the inlet end cap on with some hi-heat RTV then wrap the tubing in some muffler packing and assemble. I also stuffed packing into the endcap. I used ceramic wool, a first for me but we had a huge case at work. It is supposed to be good but time will tell. I planned to weld some inner nuts into the outlet endcap so I could use fancy SS screws to hold it on but didn't. I hope this pictorial helps someone. The only tricky thing on mine was designing the cone, but the template will work for everyone. Cam.
Cool. Still running mine and love them. I just shoved the perf pipe over the end pipe and tapped it down to a tight fit. Wrapped with 'glass packing and re-riveted them. That was 6K miles ago. Not a wimper. I did drop the bike and knocked a couple of the cheap aluminum rivets loose. I got some of the bigger size and re-did them and it's been good since. Cheap and easy way to update the cans without losing the nice stock end caps with the gunsights. I dropped about 5lbs out, figure for a grand I could have lost another five pounds with a whole custom exhaust. Just hasn't been that big of a deal. Nice work.
After a week of riding, this has been a great mod. I am surprised at the extra power and increase in throttle response. Feels more like my 450 MXer now. Its nice to just crack the throttle and do effortless wheelies. Louder than stock but not objectionable - and only while on the power. Low speed is still decently quiet. Thanks to the cafe members who got this idea rolling. Cam.
I would post in the iBeat thread and have Dynobob reply. He's done a ton of testing with all the tuners and especially dyno'd the bike with iBeat to get a good range of settings for best operation. In a nutshell, the JD is an add-on box that tricks the ecu into a modified state. The iBeat program actually sets the mixture for each low, med, and high throttle settings on the ECU. It is more simple and reliable, and more versatile, so favored for those reasons. Cheap too. Anyway, check out the other thread(s) if you have interest.
You should be able to get the same results w/ either approach. I've never messed with the JD but the adjustments are there that you need. Don't add much fuel down low - add 16-20% at full throttle/higher rpms. .
Thanks, I plan to work on that this week. Bike runs excellent but I am sure that I have too much fuel added down low. It would be nice to be able to add a temporary cheap gauge to the o2 sensor to aid in tuning. Cam.
I've been trying to find a place that stocks the perforated 2" tube locally. What type of store/supplier would stock this stuff? I've tried Metal Supermarkets and Russel metals locally, with no luck yet.
Did you google it - this came up first: http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/2...-uK5vu8k3qahfEkBt8qQyvbxJ-ZdxHg9w9BoCoW3w_wcB There was a link up-thread... But 2" perforated pipe should not be hard to find. Don't expect to find it at a local store - this custom bike stuff.
I found it once before, I made an exhaust for a formula SAE car in university, but that was about 15 years ago lol and I can't remember where I sourced it from, and if I did, no guarantee they're still around. If I have to buy from the US with exchange, shipping, duty and customs, I might as well get a FMF. Not quite. There are a couple custom bike places here, they're more of the "straight pipe" type places but they might know of something.
Didn't realize my local wasn't on my profile, oops. At any rate, I was looking for more of a type of place, not so much as an exact place, not too many TE guys around here. Have some ideas now, and if I still come up empty there is always eBay or the link cjbrown supplied. Thanks.
I think this is where I got mine, most of the cheaper stuff had a welded seam and less open area. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LA-Choppers...ash=item5d6356e6b9:g:Gi8AAOSwud1W~aOz&vxp=mtr
Just hoping I can add some more info to this thread. First, a BIG thank you to KXcam22 and to CJBROWN for working out the details on how to mod the standard cans. Actually, a big thank you to CJBROWN for all the other 630 knowledge he has shared! OK, I was lucky enough to find an excellent condition original TE630 take-off very inexpensively. I followed the previous folks's instruction; pulled out the guts, added a perf-tube and fiberglass packing, and turned one of the cans into a flow-through. What I found is: The original can is very efficiently designed and made. I only saved 1.4 pounds be removing the cat, and the innards, and replacing with straight through. It took me a few hours to do it (I'm not the fastest), it wasn't easy to get the insides out, and it wasn't easy to cut up it up. Considering the time to order the perf-tube, packing, and sealant ... at this moment I cannot say it was worth it. The flow-through sounds nice (not as noisy as I expected), and it doesn't get as hot. I still am using two cans, the flow through on one side and the original on the other side. My next project will be to cap the mid-pipe leading to the other can, and see what it's like with only one can. That'll save me 7.5 lbs, the weight of the other can. Bike runs great, no sputtering - but I have not got any real data on a performance improvement. It feels more responsive but that could just be the exhaust sound. In the next month I'll try it with just the one flow-through can, and see what it's like.
Thanks for the kind words. When I weighed the guts from the two cans it was right about 5lbs. The internal perf pipe adds a little, and the packing, but I don't think it's a pound each, but could be. At 7 years and 8K miles mine still work just great. I would encourage you to run the two, but everybody has their own tastes in what looks and works the best. I thought they were nicely done as well, the cans themselves are either cast or machined alloy with a nice ridge left in for rigidity, they are very strong, and the stainless endcaps with the gun sight emblem stamped in is just too nice to trash. These have to be one of the nicest stock exhaust cans installed on any bike. If you haven't already, I would also encourage you to apply the iBeat programmer to your ECU and set the mixture for each throttle setting per Dynobob's specs. Your bike will start and run better than ever, and you'll unleash at least another 10% power over the full range. Likely the best mod I did to my 630, besides the subframe reinforcements. I'm very near selling mine, have reached the age where it is no longer prudent to be railing the trails, and it just doesn't get out anymore. I keep thinking and hoping my attitude will change, it's such a fantastic dualsport, but it's not looking good for me. It may well be that mine will show up in the classifieds here, complete with Malcolm Smith autograph.
