Decatting the TE511 Muffler...

The Q4 is quieter because it has a baffle welded inside and they charge you $100 more for this.





This adds considerable back pressure. Alternatively you can add baffles that merely redirect the sound into the outer sound packing without adding the back pressure.



Even the insert can have a baffle added to reflect sound backward into the packing and not the exhaust exit.







No turn key options here unfortunately, but I did manage to scrounge up a project listed below if you were interested...



A crude drawing of added baffles, image A on top is a straight through baffle. Image B has baffles added to redirect the sound waves into the exhaust packing which quiets the exhaust without adding too much back pressure.



What You'll Need

1- Cutting tool to cut slots in your baffles, die grinder works
4- Fender Washers to insert and weld into the slots
Welding unit or torch (friend or shop if you don't have one) to tack the washers in place so they don't rattle

How To Do It

1. Take the baffle out of the pipe and remove the fiberglass packing.

2. With a hacksaw, die grider wheel, or chop saw cut 4 slices not quite half waythrough the baffle.

3. Find a couple fender washers that are the same diameter as the baffle pipe. You could just cut them in half or the line just above the hole in the center if extra baffle is needed.

4. This is what I used to put into the baffle.

5. Here you see one washer in the pipe.

6. Here are two washers.. and so on. Note: I would add baffles with such size to where you could not see directly down the middle of the tube like those shown in this picture. This would assure that the sound waves were being redirected completely and not straight out the pipe.

7. I split the pipe in half so you can see how the split washers will look inside the pipe. Weld them into place and if you feel like it grind off any burrs that are left, although it’s not necessary. Repack the fiberglass or if it’sbad then replace the packing. Reinstall the baffles and fire it up!


An alternative method I would use is to v-notch the washers and then place them 180° apart so that there were no line of sight for the exhaust to flow through. The more of these you had, the lower the dB output you would have. Remember to leave room for your insert at the end.

Looking at your bike makes me feel as if I should be arrested for bike abuse...

Ok, for those sitting on the sidelines. This is NOT that bad. It actually took me almost as long to get the rivets out as getting the cat out.

Here is what it looked like as I started:



And I had five welds holding the cat to the can:



My sawzall didn't do much, so I just got the grinder and went at it. I started grinding, then switched to a cutoff blade (I ate two total). Once the welds were gone, I just cut about 1/4" deep all the way around. As it got hot from the cutting, I could feel it getting loose.



I kept working around the whole canister and it progressively got looser. As I completed the circle it just fell out.

The end result was not too bad. I had a couple of rough spots to clean up, but was very pleased with the result.



Didn't get to take the bike for a ride, but I can already tell this is the ticket. A) You lose about 2 pounds of precious metals. B) The bike obviously can breathe WAY better - it already feels cooler just sitting their idling. I already ran map set 3, so my throttle response was excellent - but I can tell this will yield the benefits I was looking for.

Weight, temp, power, response - all in that stupid little donut from hell.

BTW, I could not really tell ANY increase in sound. I wish I would have done some baseline testing prior to cutting it out. My wife is an audiologist and has access to some excellent portable sound equipment. Doh...too late! There is sertainly a change in the tone, but the bike is still ridiculously quiet.

Thanks OP! I needed this!

So... this applies to 2011 TE449 as well? I initially thought there was a mid pipe cat on my bike.

No, only in the front of the Farconni.

I think we should go into the muffler business Tinken.

Lets just make a titanium silencer with 2 cores, and outlets. Like the old 570 huskies had?

Top core is a typical glasspack straight in straight out. Bottom core is what you pictured. Have a screw on cap for the straight through core. Okay I want to be loud, let them both open....okay I want to be quiet, screw on the cap on the loud core. Cores could be smaller in diameter vs what we have now, and that would mean the quiet core would likely not require a ton of baffles or anything to restrict it too much. If aKRAPovic can make money selling 2000$ dirt bike exhausts, I think we could make as much at half the price. now to find perforated titanium tubing

So with a decat or aftermarket pipe you can't switch between map 1 and 2 using the plug under the seat?

I have a hard time believing this. Just use the jumper

I think I've read 2 different posts about this. Was just wondering if I lost the ability to use map 1 if I have an aftermarket pipe or decat mine.

I think the issue is you'll be too lean with a slip on and Map 1.

Yes, but they weight more than a WWII boat anchor. We have the new ProCircuit silencers and they are quiet and powerful while retaining the quality you would expect from an American made item (unlike F brand obviously).

Hard to get them in the 90's and still run correctly is key.

Since I'm running the F-brand PowerCore + Quiet Insert on my TE I'm very interested in what I can to to quiet her down a bit. I have read before that packing a silencer loosely will help, um, silence it. I have a roll of eBay stainless packing material sitting in my garage. I'd be open to suggestions on how to pack it properly to achieve a more subdued exhaust note.

I've noticed that at idle, the this exhaust is reasonable. But when you torque the throttle, the thing barks like a big dog. In a way it's cool, it sounds mean, but I'd hate to be the guy behind me.

You can make the insert smaller or add baffles like the Q4