• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

How I will build my own oil cooler for my TE511

This is like rocket science except it's engine science.. sorta

Still find myself reading this despite my complete lack of knowledge in this area...

reminding me just how ingenious some engine 'engineers' are...

Best of luck to ya Rearwheelin
 
Tinken said:
I heated my clutch cover well beyond the brazing rod and it didn't warp. :D
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I have a couple of those aluminum brazing sticks . I have not used one yet but will now as I think its the best way. The hole for the oil pickup is right at the biggest part of the clutch so oil should hit the hole with a-lot of force. There is not a lot of room for any intruding barbs so I'm keeping the mods outside the clutch cover .Any tips on how I should do this Tinken ? JB weld has a 3960 PSI holding strength. I think Its triple for brazing stick.

 
Try to clamp the part down, you don't need a lot of pressure on it. Heat with a torch on medium and drag the brazing rod across the joint until you see it begin to melt. Kind of scrub the joint back and forth until you see the alloy suck in, then stop. You can dremil-grind around the inside edge if you have any drips.

 
why not just properly weld the damn thing ?? all this half assed JB weld stuff? better yet, zip-ty used to have some seriously cool cooler set up for the 450, 510, am sure he could set you up with some bits and pieces that would work right , first time out.
 
huskyfrk said:
why not just properly weld the damn thing ?? all this half assed JB weld stuff? better yet, zip-ty used to have some seriously cool cooler set up for the 450, 510, am sure he could set you up with some bits and pieces that would work right , first time out.
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I altered you post slightly - before people contacted me about it. I fully realize you meant nothing bad, and I hope you can understand.
 
JB Weld??? Have it professionally welded if you don't know how. The area needs to be absolutely spotless & degreased before welding. Any contamination at all & it'll be a poor (most likely leaky) weld. Look at the "Russels" or "Aeroquip" sites for possible bolt together fittings solutions, call them & ask if they have a recomendation for what you're trying to accomplish.
Welding or brazing aluminum is not like steel or copper at all.
 
huskyfrk said:
why not just properly weld the damn thing ?? all this half assed JB weld stuff? better yet, zip-ty used to have some seriously cool cooler set up for the 450, 510, am sure he could set you up with some bits and pieces that would work right , first time out.
Click to expand...
The cover is magnesium :)
 
Ruffus said:
Would it warp at all if the welding was done to the outside while the case is still firmly bolted up?
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Yes, it will still warp. It doesn't matter if it's bolted up or not.

It *may* not be enough to worry about at all.

When the weld cools it will contract and distort the surrounding material. The more fIller material added, the more distortion you will get.
 
huskyfrk said:
why not just properly weld the damn thing ?? all this half assed JB weld stuff? better yet, zip-ty used to have some seriously cool cooler set up for the 450, 510, am sure he could set you up with some bits and pieces that would work right , first time out.
Click to expand...
Yes, I built a oil cooler and it was successful enough to have Husqvarna contact me. But, this is Randy's project/experiment. I suggested brazing because it fell within his means for the prototype and should work perfectly for this application.
 
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