• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

How I will build my own oil cooler for my TE511

The two inner most rivets are getting grinded down to a certain point. You being in the aircraft industry I will deffinantly take your advise. To late to drive the rivets out, bedtime.
 
McKay said:
No, bad idea, please don't think that. Drive the centers out at least while the JB is still semi soft and seal with new JB.
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I would think driving the centers out would weeken them ? I drove them out a little to coat them before using them so they are internally sealed.
 
They don't add any strength, they are only there to form the buck-tail and those rivits don't have lock collars on the stems.
 
McKay said:
They don't add any strength, they are only there to form the buck-tail and those rivits don't have lock collars on the stems.
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I don't think the rivets are under any stress at all. The JB alone is holding with 6,000+ lbs of strength . I think the clutch cover will break before the fitting breaks off :) if anything the rivets helped the JB form a great bond. I will shave the rivets A little .
 
That is one sexy clutch cover, you got there :D
Hey, on the bright side, if it doesn't work, now you have a custom oil return for your oil breather... :banana:

IMG_6879.jpg
 
Rearwheelin said:
should i grind down the last one ?
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Lol, no more grinding, you need the heads and tails for them to function. Vibration and heat cycles are what Im concerned with. Give it a shot but don't get too far from home or the truck and get them out ASAP when your done.
 
I might be a bit clueless but why not take a good solid piece of round stock, thread it, thread the hole in your cover, and thread it into the hole with some red loctite. Then, drill out the round stock and tap it for whatever barb fitting you're going to use.
 
McKay said:
Lol, no more grinding, you need the heads and tails for them to function. Vibration and heat cycles are what Im concerned with. Give it a shot but don't get too far from home or the truck and get them out ASAP when your done.
Click to expand...
The inner two I had to grind so they will clear the basket, I will leave the other alone . The two I grinded are in a low stress area the JB has a really good hold on the fitting. When you tap it sounds like the mod was poured with the original mold.
 
K5PL5 said:
I might be a bit clueless but why not take a good solid piece of round stock, thread it, thread the hole in your cover, and thread it into the hole with some red loctite. Then, drill out the round stock and tap it for whatever barb fitting you're going to use.
Click to expand...
The cover is too thin. I would have .
 
Rearwheelin said:
The cover is too thin. I would have .
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I think you are doing it the best you can for a test. :thumbsup:
I don't know how you will be able to tell if or how much flow you get through the cooler tubes? Do you have base oil temperatures for given ambient temps on a particular hill climb or hard ride with out the cooler? Or oil temps compared to coolant temps? :excuseme: Just wondering.
 
Xcuvator said:
I think you are doing it the best you can for a test. :thumbsup:
I don't know how you will be able to tell if or how much flow you get through the cooler tubes? Do you have base oil temperatures for given ambient temps on a particular hill climb or hard ride with out the cooler? :excuseme: Just wondering.
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I will hook a clear tube to the hose barb and run it to the roof of my house to see what kind of pressure it puts out :) I will figure out a way to transfer the heat out of the oil after a pressure and flow test. Maybe pump the oil into the swing arm or frame .
 
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