• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

How I will build my own oil cooler for my TE511

I will hook a clear tube to the hose barb and run it to the roof of my house to see what kind of pressure it puts out :) I will figure out a way to transfer the heat out of the oil after a pressure and flow test. Maybe pump the oil into the swing arm or frame .
I'm not sure running the hose to the roof will tell you the effective pressure, because we don't know (for sure) if there will be any back pressure in the return?? Or will you have your return plumbed and tee off to the roof line? If that's the case, why not tee in a pressure gauge instead of the "roof line". In either case, why not just use a pressure gauge and skip the roof line?
 
The main concern I would consider is that the amount/pressure of oil being returned to the crankcase. In the 80's my Dad put an oil cooler on his tricked out Sportster. It was not home brew actually a Harley catalog item.

The problem was that it would not return enough back to the oil tank because of latent pressure loss through the lines and cooler. After some fiddling he took it off and sold it. He had too much into the big jugs, dual plug heads, big cams, etc. to chance starving the motor of sufficient oil.

I know you are not quite that far along, but something to keep in mind.

Keep us posted.
 
I don't see that as a real issue, there's a nice pool of oil up there for start up and it will only take a split second longer to get oil up there than it would with just the hose that's there. I'm thinking something like this.





$T2eC16hHJGsFFMnUlrvGBRbhswfuig~~60_3.JPG

I'm thinking a heat exchanger that splices into the left radiator hose . Cooled coolant returning to the radiator pump would be most ideal to me and well protected from rocks and tree limbs. Yes that is a Tinken idea :)
 
I voted that i don't think it will pump and thats mainly because there is the same crank case pressure at both ends. If the hose went into a bucket and was not subjected to equalizing crank case pressure i feel you would get a little flow but maybe not enough. Waiting on results. :popcorn:
 
Shit I was wrong. :D Kinda. I think your just seeing crankcase pressure there and once you tie it back into the motor not be flow. Get a clear tube and hook it to your oil fill cap. Keep going.
 
Yep, that's why it's pulsating/spurting.
You guys are correct . I ran a clear line to the filler cap and oil movement was very marginal . Not worth running to a cooler :applause:

On the up side I was able to verify that loads of oil circulate threw the cover. In test one I pumped 200cc in a very short time. Time for my back up plan.....:thinking: :D Now I want to turn the clutch cover its self into a heat exchanger . :oldman:
 
You guys are correct . I ran a clear line to the filler cap and oil movement was very marginal . Not worth running to a cooler :applause:

On the up side I was able to verify that loads of oil circulate threw the cover. In test one I pumped 200cc in a very short time. Time for my back up plan.....:thinking: :D Now I want to turn the clutch cover its self into a heat exchanger . :oldman:

I like a heat sink on the clutch cover and maybe a fan. Cool, or cooler.:)
 
Sorry you had to pay $40 for a drill bit. I changed the vents for sale on the Zipty website to include stepped drill bits for our cost of the bit (roughly 6 dollars). I'm happy to hear installation went well. If I may make a suggestion, it would be to cap off your original case vent, you really don't want blow by gasses to pass through that location. Also, the hole in your case cover would be an excellent place to return cooled breather oil instead of the fill cap. :)
 
Also, the hole in your case cover would be an excellent place to return cooled breather oil instead of the fill cap. :)

The return hole works really good . I let several feet of clear hose fill with oil and when I lifted it vertically it went right in ! Lol.... Since I have the cover all modded now I might wrap some brass tubbing around the cover and divert a radiator line to it.. JB weld is a great conductor of heat. Pleanty more JB weld on the next go around ! Ha ha
 
Back
Top