Thank you Caboose, i will try it next thing tomorrow morning. At this point i'm a bit desperate, i don't have a delership around me that can help me with this issue so you guys are my only hope. Up to this point i made the ghetto usb vagcom thingie with the windows xp 32bit running on a vm with ibeat 2.0 and trying all this stuff out has rendered me exhausted (i also had to push the bike for 1 km today on 35 degrees C / 98 F so...yeah) I did update the values earlier to 105 110 115 and immediatly the bike would start 4/5 times but every time the engine got warm and i tried to start it more than once i drowned the spark plug and had to wait for 30 mins. will update tomorrow.
So i fiddled with No1 until i got activity arround 100%. So in the end i had 86-105-115 but i noticed i did not have power in low revs. So i upped NO1 to 94 and now power is ok. But still when i try starting it it will start 3/5 and if i have to many failures then it will not start at all, probably because i'm getting the spark plug wet. I noticed something curious thoough, when i enter the fb menu the engine starts reving abnormaly, also when i quit...it takes a bit to stabilize; also, sometimes the bike idles at 2200 with no reason...maybe it's got something to do with the fact that i reset the long term fb and need more hours of on time till it stabilizes...otherwise, with 94-105-115 power delivery is fairly liniear, with a bit more power in mid range, but it does go out of breath when i reach 7500 rpm. I did burn a fuse with my ghetto vagcom cable (so be aware this might happen if you use exposed wires like me) but i found something curious, can you guys tell me what this is?
So guys, i have bought the power up plug and screw to do the upgrade, i'm now waiting for the delivery. Should i start the fb correction with 100-100-100 after de PU upgrade? I also have problems with the coolant liquid, and most probably i have a blown cylinder gasket. Therefore i ordered the 1.1mm gasket, the cylinder head gasket and the bottom gasket. I will also check the valve clearance if i open up the engine. The problem with the coolant is that it is pushed out through the expansion tank as you can see in the video link below. View: https://youtu.be/EHGwGC_YA-A
Thats the plug of the tilt sensor maybe? I would solve the problem with the gasket and then you should see the idling/starting problem. And/or try to fiddle with the idle screw on the throttle body (give it some more air maybe) AND the fb No.1 setting until it idles and starts fine.
So guys i installed my pu plug. The exhaust sounded smoother from the first start. I tried running it 95-105-110 and now am at 100-105-110. Problem is, the bike is still hard to start even with no1. set to 90. It is also blowing out cooling liquid so from the troubleshooting manual it seems like i have a blown gasket and it also affects the engine start. Will do a leak down test to confirm. Otherwise, with no1 set to 100 it wheelies using only throtle so i like that Bike is stock air filter and double can exhaust with catalizers in. What setting works best for your stock 630 with pu plug?
Now that I'm in vacation I found some time to try to connect with Ibeat. Unfortunately I can not To connect it to the bike. Always says "incorrect port" Where am I wrong? Every advice and criticism is well accepted
Rotax, if it says incorrect port then probably you did not select the correct com port or you didn't set up the virtual machine all the way. Do you have a virtual machine or a standalone laptop with windows xp 32 bits? You can always go to system properties / device manager / and see there on what com port your USB Vagcom is connected on. Then select the exact com port in iBeat and it should work if you have your virtual machine set up correctly.
Thank you again with these indications. My cable was built following these directions in the link you put. I'm still trying to get the gas pump lit !!. The port indicated when I insert the wagcom usb is the number 7 on my 32-bit xp. Thanks again
When I first came up with using the VAGCOM usb to OBD2, I recommended the #4 pin on the OBD2 side of the adapter. After many subsequent uses, I found that the #5 pin was more universally accepted to avoid the communication stops warning.
Hola 630 guys, I live 8000 feet (2400 meters) up in the Andes of Ecuador, my bike is bone stock and runs terrible. The O2 sensor is still in, and I really need some advice on where to set the fueling. I would delete the sensor and insert a resistor if I could figure out which two wires to use. The cost and time to get a PU kit shipped down here is prohibitive. Thanks in advance for any help.
These are my electrical connections Positive - brown Negative - blue Signal - yellow green I miss something? The entry door is 7 but ibeat says it is not possible to connect ....
Rotax You need to take the cap off the connector behind the headlight. Once you get the cap off and plug the wires in you should get a connection.
Oh pardon me! I didin't realise that In this case I'm pretty much clueless. The cable routing is spot on. Just to clarify: is the ignition on? Is the red stop button (engine cut off) depressed?
