Alternative ibeat /cables

Bump, guys... help?

I finally figured it out and got it working
Now to remove all ambiguity on this subject.....

I can't speak for others but the ODB2 cable I ordered was the same one in the amazon link above (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271803567443?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT for Au customers)
If the links become unavailable then what you are looking for is a 'Vagcom' OBD2 to USB cable. On one side it is marked with "VAG KKL" and has a red LED. The other side says "KKL VAG-COM for 409.1"
I believe other cables will work if they support the ISO9141 protocol

The iBeat software only seems to work on 32 bit systems. If you have a 64bit system you can use a virtual machine to install a 32 bit copy of windows without having to reformat the computer. Instructions are in my post above

- Connect the OBD2 cable to the computer (and mount it to the virtual machine if thats what you are using)
- Drivers should be installed automatically, otherwise use the disc that comes with the OBD2 cable (NOT the iBeat drivers)
- Once instlaled, check what COM port has been assigned to the adapter by opening device manager.
In XP click start-run and then type 'devmgmt.msc' and hit ok
In Vista/7 click start, right click 'computer' select 'properties' then click 'device manager' at the top left
Then expand 'Ports (COM & LPT)



Note mine is COM4, double note that if you plug it into a different USB port it'll be assigned a different COM port. So if you do disconnect the cable just recheck the COM assignment
I also checked the port settings as shown above, these are the defaults and shouldn't need to be set. However if they differ, set them to that

- Start the iBeat software (install it if you havn't got to that stage) and then double check that its assigned to the correct COM port in the options menu





Note that sometimes I got a communication port error, even though the cable was plugged in and the COM port was correct. If this happens try replugging the cable and restarting iBeat

- Once the COM port is set click 'OK'

- Now over to the bike side... first thing to note is this black thingy should be removed


I went full retard on this one and got it completely wrong, I removed the 6 little black plugs that fit into the cap and then inserted wires, thats NOT the way to do it. The cap itself can be completely removed as one piece, and will expose a yellow connector like so



- Connect the bike & OBD2 cable as follows




Note that as helpful as 'eddychecker' has been with his posts and we should be grateful he worked out the OBD2 cable in the first place. His OBD2 pinout diagram is reversed since we are NOT looking at a vehicles female plug. So here is what it should be. This was the cause of 2 days swearing at it without much result



- Once thats all hooked up then turn the key on the bike to the on position, make sure the kill-switch is at the 'RUN' position (you'll hear the fuel pump prime). Starting the engine is completely optional, i'd advise leaving it OFF for now
- Either restart iBeat, or click on the orange 'OFFLINE' button at the top right to retry the connection. You should now be online and working

Few things to note
- The red LED on the vagcom cable is ALWAYS on when connected to the USB port, it does not signal anything is right/wrong/connected/disconnected in this instance, so completely ignore it
- Note that i'm using pin '4' not pin '5' for my ground. Try either one if its not working for you
- If things aren't working then yes you can check pins 5 & 6 for voltage, 5 is positive and 6 is negative. You should get 12 volts when the key is set to the ON position. If no voltage is present then there's a problem elsewhere
- It doesn't seem to matter what order you do things in. Feel free to start iBeat first and hook it all up last if you want, just make sure you click the orange 'OFFLINE' button at the top right to retry the connection once its all connected and key is turned on

I hope this helps anyone having issues

Open up your new connector. I have the same one you have. Look at the pics below and attach your wires like mine. On the bike you will have a blue (signal ground) brown with white stripe (12 v supply) and white with violet stripe (k line signal +). This is what my 2010 510 SMR has.

Slight correction to the above. Pin 5 on the bike is 'negative' and pin 6 is 'positive' if you are checking voltage.

We can't edit posts on this forum???

So to clarify let's start with the bike wires. The white with violet k-line goes to my white jumper wire then to the red wire on the driver. The brown with white stripe 12v supply line on my bike goes to my red jumper wire then to the yellow driver wire. Last is the blue ground wire on my bike to the black jumper wire then to the black driver wire. Let me know if you need anymore info.

I have it working with my bike now, my post answers some questions I had (and others may have) that were not properly clarified in previous posts
I followed what had been written previously but didn't get any result, mostly my fault i'll admit. My goal is just to make it plain and simple, to the point where if its not working the problem lies elsewhere and not with the cable, pinout, setup etc as thats all been answered thoroughly

thanks guys for posting all of this. I used the amazon cable and the disc that came with the cable. it seems to work fine. Hopefully I can figure out my bike now.

Anther thanks for this thread. Here's the short version of what I did

• I too, ordered the amazon cable which was delivered in 2 days with normal delivery selected.
• Installed the drivers in windows 10 from the amazon disk but I don't know if this is needed.
• Installed virtualbox on my windows 10 system
• Installed Windows XP 32 as a virtualbox machine(many .ISO files on the internets...)
• Shared the USB port (not the com port) to the Windows XP virtual machine.
• Started the virtual machine and installed the drivers from the amazon disk
• Changed the port to Comm 1 in the XP 32 device manager.
• Installed the iBeat 2.1 software. (got that from google internets too)
• I built a wiring harness with 3 wires and some .062" pin & socket connectors from Frys.
• plugged the wires in according to the pictures above

After that, I was in business. I did plug the wires in wrong as I didn't pay close attention to the wiring above before which produced the "communication stops" error dialog.
This worked for my 2008 TE 250.

Old thread, but just wanted to let others know I was able to have success using iBeat by following the above - what was important to me:

1. I looked at a link to an OBDII wiring pinout - not realizing when I was looking at it, that it was the female side pinout, so the numbering is backwards from the male USB to ODBII cable.
2. I have the same cable (Ordered it for my VW Golf diagnostics) and it also only had pin 4 to ground on the OBDII interface. I was using pin 5 and had no success - once I moved from pin 5 to 4 for ground, then it started working.

On that note - any suggestions for the CO settings for a 2010 TE250? I've seen some suggestions for the settings, but without saying what bike it was for. I'm having some off-idle flame-outs and occasional bogging (I have the JD Jetting PowerSurge 6X set to some online suggestions, but still get the occasional bogging. I have install the ECU MAP switch and the 'wet' map is usually a little better than the standard 'full power' setting)

When I first came up with using the VAGCOM usb to OBD2, I recommended the #4 pin on the OBD2 side of the adapter. After many subsequent uses, I found that the #5 pin was more universally accepted to avoid the communication stops warning. Maybe a jumper or switch between #4 and #5 would be in order.

Hello everybody,

I have a problem regarding the connection to iBeat. I keep getting the message communications stops.
I'm using a cable with the FTDI FT232R chip. I have the latest drivers installed, which is shown in device manager and the cable is assigned to COM 3. I tried to swap between pin 4 and 5 of the OBD2 side but this didn't help. The only thing I noticed is that the light on the cable isn't burning, but when I plug it into my car it is and the vagcom software say's port and interface ok. I'm using OBD2 pins to plug the wires into the connector on the husqvarna and I feel friction when doing so i assume that the connection there is good. I also tested the wires to the OBD2 cable with a multimeter. My bike is a euro spec 2009 husqvarna smr510. Does anybody has a clue on what might be the problem?

I found the problem, there was one connection a bit loose. So when I tested the cable it all seem to work fine, but at a slight angle the cable would lose connection. The red light lights up now and I can make the connection to iBeat. Now I need to fix the real issue. The bike stalls in neutral after 20 to 25min and it begins to run a bit rough in neutral. I can start the bike immediately again. It also stalls/cuts off when applying 3/4 to full throttle in 2nd and 3rd. Also when I shift from 5th gear (when just cruising) to 4th (and then go full throttle) it also cuts of/stalls. The spark plug (CR7EB - NGK) is also a bit to white i think. Could the mixture be to lean? There is already a colder spark plug in it, so if I would go down any further that maybe wouldn't be the right fix. Before this the bike would stall in neutral and thereafter it would only run for 10 sec and stall again, so I wasn't able to drive it at all, but that issue isn't present anymore.

Most people, myself included found the original factory settings for the fuel injection to be too lean. When I changed mine, I added 5% to the three settings at first and saw an improvement. If you have the time and inclination, experiment with small changes and add only where necessary. Otherwise, look in the other iBeat threads for setting others have used for your model and apply those.

Is that the right plug for a 510? seems kinda hot.

Trenchcoat you are correct the plug should be a CR8EB or CR8EIX.

Thank you to everybody who has contributed to the body of knowledge on here. This is my first post, I am new to the forum, and have built myself a cable based entirely on what I have learned from here. I had a few problems getting the virtual box to work for me but all is good now. I just thought if there is one contribution that I can make, it is that I have found a connector that is an exact match for the Husky Diagnostics connector. I bought it from Wish.com.
You can find it here https://www.wish.com/search/6 way sealed automotive connector/product/5714cfbd82ae7b1c2dbc653a It cost me $3.60 so for the VAGCOM, a mating OBD socket and the Husky 6 pin plug, I can out with change from $20. I am going to try to attach some pics.

I Too was having a hell of a time. The solution for me after trying wires and pins. I bought the blue cable from Amazon and also bought the husky cable see attached images https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K6498D0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
And the Husqvarna cable
http://www.lonelec.co.uk/Husqvarna-6pin-OBD2-Adaptor?search=Husqvarna

Once received these 2 cables I the removed the cap on my bikes adapter. It slips rite off.

Plugged in the cables and e erything worked . Save your self the headache and spend the money on the 2 cables.

Im using windows 8 32 bit . I bumped my head on a wall trying to do all pi outs and wire tricks . In end 2 cablrs no mess no fuss it worked as soon as i plugged it in

Here are 2 cables I bought

Hey guys, i have a Chinese knock off ross-tech cable that im trying to use, it wont come up in the device manager under the 'com' it comes under USB.

Im using the Oracle virtual machine with XP installed.

I have now ordered one of the blue ones that you have mentioned that works even though it looks like a 'no name' nock off of the ross-tech.

New blue one works.

Cheers