As Kelly said, don't reduce the oil ratio. Fuel mileage is a function of engine efficiency, tune it so that it runs it's best and the mileage will be there. In your case I would lean out the rod in 1/4 turn increments until you are satisfied. If you go to lean the mid-range power will suffer and you will have to go back richer to the sweet spot. Adjust your high speed screw on top after you have the needle as good as you can get it.
personally, i could care less what the plug looks like. i jet for what runs best, and mileage and plug life always seem to just go right along with it. stay with the right oil mix!
Thought I'd post up my initial settings. I haven't done an extended ride on the 36mm carb yet but around the neighborhood it feels very good. Will follow up on this post with riding results (power, mpg). Kelly's initial guidance for tuning seems to be a very good start (49.5mm rod length, 1 to 1.5 turns out idle). Lectron said to start with 1.5 turns out with powerjet to be safe. Bike: 2008 KTM 300, new top end Carb: Lectron 36 mm Rod: 3-2m Rod length: 50.5mm Idle screw: 1 turn out Powerjet: 1 turn out Tip: For those tuning the powerjet; if it feels like it's bouncing off a rev limiter, that means it's too rich. I was at 1.5 turns out to start and I had to look up to see if my 300 had a limiter . I turned it in .5 turn and it went away. Tip: don't be lazy like me and tune it with the airbox filter off. Make sure the filter is in and cover is on otherwise the bike will be tuned way too rich when you button it back up.
Update: Got a short 2hr ride in on tight single track. Carb runs awesome; very clean off the bottom and throughout the range. I think the powerjet at 1 turn out is perfect. Starting was hit/miss; I needed to turn the idle screw in for starting cold and warm (1/2 turn out). After starting, that 1/2 turn out idle setting is too high (~2.5k rpm), so then I would turn it back to 1 turn out (1.5k - 2k rpm). This leads me to believe I am slightly rich? I pulled the plug and it looked fine so I then turned the rod 1/4 turn out (leaner). This means I should be at 50.75mm rod length (each turn = 1mm). Will try it out again and report back. I am optimistic I can get this fine tuned. If I get the mileage that others are getting with the simplicity and great power characteristics, I would conclude the Lectron is a no brainer. My only reservations are the air box and reed boots that "sorta fit" around the carb. If they can figure this part out with adapters or some other conversion that makes it solid, these guys will be on to something. Update: I have probably 30 hrs on the lectron now. I have gone leaner and then back richer and think I am close enough at this point. Mileage has been great throughout (30mpg or higher). When experimenting going leaner, I would get a ping with off/on throttle when hot and when on highway at 1/8 type throttle settings. I think I have tuned this out now, which brings me to (not surprising) pretty much where Kelly said to start with rod length. My setting are 49.95 from plastic and about 1 turn out on idle and powerjet. I can still get a little rich burble when wacking open the throttle on the street but haven't felt it on the dirt.
The airbox boot is compressed (I trimmed 5mm off but it is still compressed somewhat) and the lip on the reed intake boot (on the right side) flares out is not flush with the carb outlet. I don't have exact measurements but the Lectron is definitely longer than the Keihin PWK so it's not a precise fit. I "suspect" it is sealing (I have the clamp pretty damn tight), but I'd like to have visual confirmation to make me feel comfortable.
50.5mm on rod sounds pretty lean but if it works go for it. I tried it once at 50.5mm & when I started my 165 it sounded like it was gonna grenade!(revved up big time so killed it). went back to 49.5mm it was sweet. could maybe go 50mm but erred on side of caution. I thought 49.5mm was lean(came stock around 48.5mm from memory but had a rich bog) so good to know im in the ballpark might revisit it again when I can be bothered. does anyone elses idle hang a bit after a rev up? been a fair while since had a mikuni on either bike so sorta forget if this is normal 2T behaviour or slightly lean? doesn't run on or anything just takes a second or two to return to normal idle. also after 30 seconds to a minute of sitting there idling my 165s idle drops a fair few hundred rpm(sounds like its gonna die but just keeps chugging at a lower rpm-kinda cool actually). give it a rev & returns to normal idle. adjust idle up when its in this 'low' rpm state then its too high after a rev. doesn't seem to have that happy medium. it will sit there & idle all day at the low rpm state & cleans out easily after a rev still. any ideas, is this normal? minor issues that don't really bother me much against all the pros of the carb which I reckon are sweet. bike runs sweet, good economy & power with no bogging. just started reading this post so thought id throw it out there
if its hanging after revving, its likely a tad lean still. try a 1/4 turn richer, you can always go back. mine hung bigtime and wanted alot more fuel at idle..every bike is a bit different. 2 strokes do take a bit to come down, its not like when a four stroke is jetted right and they come right back to idle..
yeh you may well be right as I was sort of comparing it to my bros 500exc so maybe just expecting a bit much. doesn't so much hang or run on just kinda takes a second or 2 to come down. I know the bigger bore bikes(300cc+) tend to take a bit to come down-guess just rotating mass/large crank & inertia to slow down. just wasn't sure on the smaller bore bikes. when I do the top end I will play around with the rod again. yeh im lazy
different 'grind' of the rod I think. the M was for Motosportz as its Kellys custom ground rod he developed. think it was to help off the bottom or mid range transition
Anynone still around here? I had problems with the 38mm lectron in the WR300 in that its got a great top end and great economy but I always thought Id lost some bottom end. I was running a rekluse then but now that Ive taken that out I reallly notice that something is not right When adjusting the rod to get it snappy it always would hang so It always kinda seemed lean on the idle. And not much power at the bottom. I ride single track mostly and dont have much use for that top end I had a mechanic spend a bit of time on it and he got it a little better but still not much down low. The other weekend I thought Id try the original mikuni with the jd kit - at least that would sort out if I had a leak somewhere or that the topend was just tired. It has 90 hrs on the top end and probably 150 hrs total Well it has a LOT more power on the bottom now - actually everywhere, it stalls going downhill and uses more fuel with the mikuni but it lugs heaps more does not need a top end yet for sure Im in Sydney Australia so altitude is not really a problem and Im running a procircuit. one of the reasons I wanted the lectron is to get more distance outta that tank but not at the expense of the 300 lug. I wonder if a different rod would help me out here.
Yeah, no way that poxy Mik should perform better than the Lectron. Something is not right. Find out which rod you have installed and go from there. Current rod/Lectron discussion going here too: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/lectron-3-2xl-metering-rod.44083/page-3#post-575480 My 300 with Lectron and Rekluse is a bottom end traction monster and still screams thru the woods like a raped ape with a scary fast top end. So many variables and variations between these bikes though, just have to find what works for you. I would go back to square 1 with the Lectron installed and work it out. Fresh rings are cheap and easy and eliminate a major variable; PC pipes are known to be top end pipes at the cost of some bottom; Stock exhaust gives a great spread of power for me, QStealth silencer pulls a little better off the bottom than stock with my setup; Fuel quality and mix seems to obviously affect mine too; Get 2 or 3 fresh plugs and replace as necessary while tuning. There's tons of info here with a few from Oz, so do your research. That bike should blow your skirt up everytime you ride it or something is wrong
Yeah it should go better with that sexy carb, I was really surprised when I put miki back on Im away for a few months but Ill try a different rod
the "hit" can be softer on the bottom with the lectron...in fact its desirable for anything but motocross and thats why we like them..but actual power output should not be less. my 360 is running 14/48 gearing, so fairly tall. will still slow down to the point its slapping its chain in 2nd, but will ride out of that carrying the front tire with no body english if you want it to. likely a jetting issue..
Thats what I was thinking its the rod Kelly supplied, Im away from the bike at the moment so cant check it
Hey Rickyme, I am having the same issue with a 36mm Lectron that I just installed on My '04 KTM 300. Have you been able to figure out what was causing the issue of the weak bottom-end? My powerband is smooth and linear with the Lectron but the bottom-end just does not pull anything like it did when I had the original 36mm Keihin PWK. Mid and top-end are very strong with the Lectron though. I''m wondering if perhaps they sent me a 38mm instead of the 36mm that I ordered.. It just does not run nearly as robustly on the bottom-end as it did before the change. I am also getting a fair amount of spooge, so perhaps some adjustment is in order. I am running the 2-3XL that was supplied with the carb, as recommended by Lectron, for my 300.
Every bike is different, so just have to adjust until it's right for you. Lectron seems to send carbs with the rod set a little rich. Old school is 2t should be little lean on the bottom and little rich on top, so starts easy but gets plenty of fuel when screaming. Basic Lectron tuning: adjust rod until starting is easiest and idle is good @ 1 turn out on idle screw when warmed up; IMO, if starts well, but your idle screw is 1/2 t out or 2 t out then try a different rod; PJ only affects above 1/2 throttle, start rich (1 turn out) and adjust as necessary. 1st number of the rod is for top end and 2nd is for bottom, so 2-3xl is leaner on top and richer on bottom. I'm running 3-1xl w/38mm model on my 300. Starts relatively easy and runs great.
Check your compression, the 2-3xl needle might not run right if your compression is low. Even if the top end is fresh the squish could be off and the fuel curve won't match the engine unless you cut the head for the proper squish. This happened to me on a Honda CR250 that I was tuning for a guy. Some of the other needles feed less fuel down low and don't have this problem but the 2-3xl will rip like no other when you get the engine right.
