Yeah, with my open airbox and gutted cans, I'm running 103/120/112 on Ibeat and pretty high on the red/blue on the JD with nary a stumble. I've also got the TE ECU and a quick-turn throttle tube, so it's pretty snappy, even with the stock gearing. ETA: Also, zero popping on decel and my piston / top end still look practically new at 10k miles. That's what not running stupid-lean gets you.
Also, another thing I was wondering about the red/blue is if it controls duration or volume of fuel or a mix of both? And something none of us seem to consider mentioning in these equations is our body weight. I weigh 200lbs, which is like a 50% increase in weight over the bikes own weight. If I weighed 150 that would be a significant difference. That means on a carb bike me vs the other guy the accelerator pump would be getting much larger amount of use due to the increased load on the bike. For being simple it sure is complex...
Fuel pressure is constant, so the only way to meter fuel with simple injection like we have is by pulse width (duration). And I'm 200lbs as well, and my bike's only ~320lb, so it's more like a 65+% increase by the time you add gear.
Even with the EHS mod, my TE630 did not like fuel. The EFI was crappy and I had very little scope to add fuel using the JD. After a while I had to turn the IBeat from 100/100/100 down to 98/100/100 in order to be able to increase the Red/Blue beyond 3.5. What this illustrates how different some bikes can be. Also the fact that the Iridiums worked so well shows that the standard plug was unable to initiate good combustion at part throttle; because it is on the part throttle performance that the Iridiums made the most noticeable difference.
Where do you connect the ground wire to let it reach the handlebar? Right now I have it on the battery terminal and the wire isn't long enough. Thanks! Alex
Connected mine to the grounded bolt holding the Coil (between the tank and the steering neck) to the frame. See the Red Square in the attached image.
Hi Guys i have finally fitted everything to my Husqvarna SMS 630.Ibeat settings were set to 100/100/100.I seem to be having problems setting up my tuner. My bike is running P/U, EHS Open Filter,Irridium plugs and Arrow Race pipes with a Arrows ECU.I have had it set at these settings and getting in a tiz,not sure whether to go up or down. G 3.5 Y 3.5 4.5 R 4.5 5.5 GB 3.5 YB 4 RB 5 It seems to surge around 3,500-4,500 rpm when i shut off and can here popping,seems to be around 60mph.Can you give me any tips please.James gave me the settings G 3.5 Y 4 or 5 up to 5/6 R 4 to 6 GB 3/4 YB 4 RB 5. THANKS GUYS
First thing I would try is taking your G/B down around 2 and your Y up to 5 and see what that gets you.
I have SM and TE 630's specked exactly like yours, they are total beasts with perfect fuelling. What I have found with these engines, TE510 included - has the same cyclinder, head and EFI setup, is that on part throttle (G on the JD) they do not like fuel and like to run leanish and when you open the throttle (RB on the JD) they love lots of fuel. So on all my bikes I run G at 2.5, sometimes at 2 but 2.5 seams stronger. GB at 3 or 2.5 RB at 5.5++, RB is made as high as possible without causing the EFI to stumble and pop etc, this yields great acceleration. The Iridium plug greatly helps combustion at part throttle and this single item is what cured the EFI part throttle issues on my TE630.
Thanks buddy can you pm your complete settings included R and Y settings and I will give them as whirl.
Give me a day or two as I am out of town. But what I can say is that I tend so step the colors upwards in an even progression so that more and more fuel is supplied as the throttle opens up. G = 2.5 Y = 4.5+ R = 6+ If you want to ride more aggressively, and if your EFI is happy with it, bring the Yellow phase in earlier by setting Yellow/Blue = 3 or 3.5 and turn up the Red/Blue even further (at the expense of part throttle smoothness but with greater acceleration pickup) You gotta play round and see what works best for you.
Yellow/Blue controls the transition from Yellow to Red It's Green/Blue that controls the Green to Yellow transition. Red/Blue is a separate setting, not related to the three zones that adds fuel across the board based on throttle position. Basically an "accelerator pump"
dont forget to send me those settings bud,interested to try them.James said i could increase on the green to
I took the green down to 2 and it is smoother now. Also put the red and red/blue upp a little ....feels like a little more top-boost now. The midrange i didnt' toutch.....it was good. Thanks!
