JD Tuner settings

Discussion in '610/630' started by Travis Shrey, Oct 16, 2011.

  1. RDTCU Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '11 630SMS
    Try going down to around 2 on the G/B setting.
  2. cjoecruz003 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Vacaville, Ca
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2006 SMR510
    Ok I'll try it out. I'm pretty sure I've tried it at all the way down to 1 or even the fast blinking 1 (when you go from 2 to 1 the hit the down/-/neg button the green light on 1 blinks faster than normal). That was done before adjusting the idle mixture screw though. I adjusted it to 5/6 when it starred to bog then toned it down til it felt and sounded fine and idled steady. I don't think it's a big deal using the lever every start even when hot, just figured I could tune it to not use it anymore only during really cold starts. Other than that the intense nose dive from letting off the throttle is gone and the choppy-ness at low gear n low speeds are gone as well. Still fine tuning things but overall really happy with it.
  3. zoomdude57 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Seattle
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2009 TE610
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM 200XC-W
    Same problem here. Fires but struggles a bit at a low idle. Using the enriched partially open helps. Otherwise runs great. May try the leaner G/B setting as well.
  4. zoomdude57 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Seattle
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2009 TE610
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM 200XC-W
    So I changed the Green/Blue on my JD Tuner to 2. No improvement in warm start and bike idled rough and slight stumbled just off idle. Tried 2.5 and not much difference. Went back to recommended setting of 3.5. Idles and run nice, but still have to use a bit of the lever (1/4) for it to start and stay running. Wonder if it is a TPS calibration issue?
  5. cjoecruz003 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Vacaville, Ca
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2006 SMR510
    I also messed around with it but at this point I'm not too worried. Since it just needs the level for starts, it doesn't need it to warm up the bike even from the first start of the day. I think I've fine tuned mine and it pulls great through the whole range. New rubbers coming in tomorrow so I'll keep the tuner mounted up front for the first real ride of the season in case I need to adjust.
  6. zoomdude57 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Seattle
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2009 TE610
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM 200XC-W
    You are probably right, it is not a huge deal especially if the bike is running well. Will probably hook up iBeat and check it out anyway for piece of mind. Might try 4 on G/B to see what happens.
  7. badbowie Husqvarna
    AA Class

    This is where I ended up with my bike. Purely seat of pants tuning

    Bike has power up and twin straight through Barrett mufflers. Have ridden from sea level to 1500m above sea level and feels great.

    Green 3
    Yellow 4.5
    Red 5.5
    G/B 3
    Y/B 4
    R/B 4.5 (this could be run at 5 as well)

    Anything higher than 5 on Red/Blue gave me a bad stutter in that 3000 to 4000rpm range.
  8. BaronVonDarrin Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Norristown
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 te630
    Other Motorcycles:
    wr250r, CL175
    Ok so I went on here a few days ago, found someone with leo vince exhaust set up like me, and slapped on their numbers. Which I do not recall at the moment just so I could go ride the thing with some attempt at some level of matching. I think what I really need though is a good baseline to start with for the leo vince, airbox, and power up (I was told this thing has had that done to it). It behaves a little strange off idle, like just holding a steady speed it feels like it jerks a little. So I guess I need to get my idle settings up, might be thirsty there.
  9. notoriouz Husqvarna
    A Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 SMS 630
    Other Motorcycles:
    2009 Ninja 650r
    Hey everyone, I just got my JD Tuner put on this morning. I left it on the factory settings and drove it to my house about 5 minutes from where I was at, it sucked; big time. So when I got home I changed the settings to what was recommended:

    G: 3/4
    Y: 4
    R: 3
    GB: 3/4
    YB: 4
    RB: 4/5

    These settings made it better, but it still doesn't feel right to me. In 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear there is noticable surging (I think it's called surging?); where my bike will feel really choppy, it will feel bogged down for a moment or so and then it will thrust me forward with lots of power it seems but then I'm at the end of my shift and it repeats.

    My bike has the stock exhaust, PU installed, but the "maze" is still in my airbox I believe. Could anyone suggest any settings for my setup? I went through this whole thread and picked out some things but I'm not sure if I'm on the right track. I'll post below what I have written down to possibly try.

    "RED/BLUE -> Increase for a snappier response
    Possibly reduce GREEN/BLUE to 2 or 3
    Possibly reduce GREEN to 2 or 3
    Possibly change YELLOW to 4/5
    Possibly reduce RED/BLUE to 2 or 3
    Increase RED to 4?
    ***MAYBE*** change RED/BLUE to 8??
    Setting GREEN/BLUE to 2 makes smooter idle and cruising, but better response by bringing the mid range setting in sooner.

    What I have written there in bold are the notes I wrote down for myself to think over and try, does it look like I'm on the right track with this at all?
  10. rickcj7 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Hollidaysburg PA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE630
    Take the maze out of the airbox! and the settings should be close.
  11. notoriouz Husqvarna
    A Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 SMS 630
    Other Motorcycles:
    2009 Ninja 650r
    Is taking the maze out really easy? I haven't tried even locating my airbox yet, I always make myself believe that since I have no idea what I'm doing, I shouldn't mess with anything. However, taking the maze out seems like something even I could do. Guess I just need to figure out what it looks like and how to get at it.
  12. kairles Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Antelope, CA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2008 SM610
    Other Motorcycles:
    2006 hayabusa 2010 R1
    2008 SM610 P/U kit, JD Tuner, Leo Vince slip on, pod filter.

    My track tested JD Tuner settings
    G:3
    Y:4
    R:3
    G/B:3/4
    Y/B:3
    R/B:4

    At the track I played with both R and R/B in hopes of finding more top end, never did find it.
  13. DYNOBOB Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Cincinnati (Lebanon), OH
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE630
    Other Motorcycles:
    SuperTenere-GL1800-CBR900RR-KLX250S
    Download the 630 service manual here. https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B87JGKEoBQdza3R1N19wVV92YWM



    .
  14. notoriouz Husqvarna
    A Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 SMS 630
    Other Motorcycles:
    2009 Ninja 650r
    Thanks for the link, I read through a lot of it this morning but I didn't find anything about locating the air box. I gave up, I'm just going to see if my buddy can possibly help me find it. He doesn't really know bikes but he knows cars, hopefully he can translate what he knows over to motorcycles; at least enough to be able to help me out.
  15. 1lunger Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Bloomfield CT
    It behind the the black box with 4 or 5 nuts around the outside. It also take up space behind the part that says 630. This is all on throttle side of bike
  16. rickcj7 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Hollidaysburg PA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE630
    Remove the seat with the key on the left side, remove the right rear side panel, it just pulls straight out of rubber grommet in air box, remove air box cover screws, one screw is longer goes in the bottom.
    Remove air box cover and then remove baffle. Put back together.
  17. Russ Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Sydney
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE250i & 701 Enduro, 501 & 630 sold
    Just bear in mind that not all jurisdictions have the maze (e.g. Australia doesn't). I couldn't tell from your profile where you are located.
  18. jtemple Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Papillion, NE
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 TE630
    Other Motorcycles:
    2013 Kawasaki ZX-14R
    The airbox is the big black plastic thing under your right leg when you sit on the bike:

    [IMG]

    The "maze" is inside. If it's in there, it chokes your bike up something fierce:

    [IMG]

    Look for the "Air Filter Check" section of your owner's manual for instructions on how to get inside.
  19. notoriouz Husqvarna
    A Class

    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 SMS 630
    Other Motorcycles:
    2009 Ninja 650r
    Thank you all who posted back here to help me, I really appreciate the kindness! I was messing around yesterday and found the air box; and then I told myself how stupid I am for not being able to find something that was directly in front of me lol.

    I seen someone say they took the "snorkel" off their air box as well, are they talking about the piece of plastic held on the side of the air box by those 3 screws? Is this safe to take off and leave off?
  20. rickcj7 Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Hollidaysburg PA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE630
    It's ok to remove the snorkel, but taking it off doesn't let more air in, drilling a few holes in the air box lid under the side cover helps.

    ps the ecu is on the way should show up on tracking by now.