TE/TC Hakkalugi's TE150

Interesting. On the one hand we now have 3 of us with the same PSI. On the other hand, can't really blame your problem on that, alone. Looking back at that spark plug, it's pretty white. Can you richer up some more?

Nice gauge, BTW.

My plug now looks just about perfect after a bit of tinkering, I went way rich after that plug chop & was spooging & kept going leaner until no spoog & a crisp throttle after a long downhill or slow technical section. Gonna give the shop a ring once I get into the truck & see what they say..

For fuel I’m using Sunoco Standard 110 octane, a local gas station has it at the pump.
http://www.sunocoracefuels.com/fuel-finder

I’m using Legend Performance 2 cycle oil, their ZX-2SR model.
http://www.legendperformance.com/


This combo is working well for me.

I’ve been using Oury road grips for the past 30 years.
I have some scar tissue under a knuckle on the inside of one hand and have found these works best for me
http://www.ourygrips.com/road-street-grips/

Mixing 50:1

Thinking about this... my 14 300 is very sensitive to PV settings if I'm trying to run pump gas. If I run the dolly screw in where "everybody else" runs it, it will ping. And the engine acts like it's super hyper and has too much compression. Today, as an experiment, I backed the screw out to the stop and couldn't believe how much "free-er" the engine seemed to run. I'm sure it was opening too late/slowly and the exhaust area wasn't enough as the revs climbed. Was probably building too much cylinder pressure. Maybe you could go back through your PV settings and try something similar?

Hey Hakkalugi, I searched my service repair CD and there was no mention of cylinder compression pressure only the “X-distance”, the difference between cylinder head and piston at TDC.

The stated value is .004 of an inch.

Full size might be gooder

will have to tinker when I get home, im enjoying the beach in OCNJ for the rest of the week. I feel like this is something the shop should look at unless im mistaken. Just doesnt seem right I have a $8k bike that just isnt right & have dumped another $1000 not including my labor to try to make it better with not much outcome.

Based on your compression test and ours, I'd say your X dimension is fine. Back that dolly screw out when you get a chance and see how it goes.

Ive messed with my PV quite a bit different springs different tensions ill give it another shot when I get home though

Just thought?

Take your powervalve covers off.

Remove your likage covers that hold your booster ports in.

See if those booster ports move freely. If not pull them out. Pop orings off and polish them. Stick orings back on and oil them with two stroke oil. Re assemble rest.

Kx 250's years ago, booster ports would hang and make them ping.

Send you manual shortly.

Ck your email to see if you got it?

sure did darin, ill give it a whirl when I get home that is one thing ive been wondering about is how freely my pv is moving.

Rained all day I just changed gear oil & loosened my PV all the way, its worse now that its all the way out. Im about 3.5 turns in from full lock with the yellow spring (pretty sure its the yellow one). Almost bought another jug of race fuel but would really like to only run av gas if I could get away with it. Even the av gas with octane boost doesnt cut it. $70/5 gal's is gonna hurt the wallet in the long run.

You should be about 2 1/4 - 2 1/2 turns in from full out, with yellow spring.

So looks like you are 1 turn in too much.

Update?

Tried darins 2 1/4-1/2 out and pingin worse than if it was in 3.5. Havent been riding much my dad got knee surgery, most my friends that ride went back to college. Wish I could figure this out. Havent had much time/motivation to tinker on this. Have been building a 2003 GSXR600 'bike in a box' I got for cheap on my down time. Open to any & all suggestions

What is it exactly that you are hearing?

I talked to the people at Hutch Motorsports in MA; they told me there is an updated fix for the early 2017 150’s. Parts are the barrel shafts and gate control plates for the power valve, also some carb parts. I ordered the kits today and hopefully should have them installed for next weekend. I live in Michigan and have no connection with the dealership but here is their info.

Hutch Motorsports
1298 New State Hwy.
Raynham, MA 02767

508-977-9600

http://www.hutchmotorsports.com/