My understanding is it has to be a 32 bit machine though. If you get the aftermarket iBeat adapter it plugs into a USB. http://semcodesigns.com/Products.html You can get the software from JTemple's Google drive for free. .
I've had intentions of removing my power commander and putting the O2 back in to see what results I can get just enriching w/ iBeat. Theoretically it should fine tune from there if it's closed loop again. In any event, if I had it to do over I'd just get iBeat and not the PC-V. However, the PC-V was right on the money with the provided map, plug and play. That's an advantage if you don't have access to a dyno. .
No Dyno, however if I get an I-beat and run with an air/fuel gauge along with my JD tuner I should get close but that would require a lot of tinkering instead of riding. If you can only enjoy riding for 5 months I begrudge any tinkering time!
I been running a bazzaz Zfi on my 630.It came with 2 maps for a slip on exhaust,standard and race.I have gutted standard pipes.It was better but not quite right with surging in 3900-4100rpm.I then plugged in their self mapper and went for a ride.It builds a map as you ride kind of like on board dyno .Come back plug into computer hit stop ,retrieve,apply and all done.Made a big difference no more surging nice smooth power.
Screenshot, i am not that smart. Thats why i have simple bazzaz program. I can take a pic with my camera
Interesting that it's not adding much fuel at high rpm WOT. I wonder if those are % or an arbitrary scale? .
I believe they are percentages.Here's the info how it works http://www.motomummy.com/bazzaz/fuel.html
What has he done to the bike besides gutting the cans? It might be running out of air at high throttle and high rpm. That might explain why it's not adding as much fuel as you might think.
Just gutted pipes and pu. Would it be worth putting a few holes in the airbox? I ride off road a bit and thru water so wasn't to sure on airbox mods. Don't know if i need much more power up top,the thing slips the clutch if you crack wot at 4500 to 5000 in 5th and 6th on the highway.Heard a few huskies do this but haven't been able to pinpoint the cause.
You need to bleed the clutch master cylinder. With the bike cool, wrap a rag around the box reservoir and crack the phillips screws loose to let the excess oil out, then tighten it back down. What is happening is that as the clutch wears, the slave cylinder holds less fluid and it's pushed up into the master. If you don't bleed it every once in a while, it will fill up and keep a small amount of pressure in the line. I bleed mine a few times a season, only get a drop or two out each time, but it keeps it from slipping.
I want to understand this better. The clutch slave actuator is spring loaded so I would think that when "at rest" or "un-engaged" it will hold exactly the same amount of fluid regardless of clutch wear. Wouldnt clutch wear only affect fluid level when in the "engaged" position? _
Under normal operation, the clutch actuator (slave) piston is resting against the pushrod. As the clutch wears, the pushrod will creep to the left, towards the slave, which will force the piston's resting position further back, leaving less volume for fluid. The fluid has to go somewhere, and unless your slave piston seal is leaky, that is back into the reservoir. If your reservoir was filled to capacity to begin with, and this goes on long enough, it will force the air out of the master reservoir and you end up with residual line pressure, which gets worse as the engine gets hot. That's what causes the clutch to slip in many cases. If the slave had a spring return, and the slave piston neutral position didn't change with clutch wear, your engagement point on the lever would creep out, and the clutch would actuate sooner as it wore, but you don't see this happening. ETA: A similar situation would be what we saw with CBR F4i motors in FSAE cars, we went through clutches fairly regularly with all the launches and such. They used a cable actuator, but as the clutch wore, you had to loosen the cable, or you would end up with constant tension on it, which would make it slip. The air volume in your reservoir is like the slack in the cable.
I had forgot about that. Last service it was flushed and refilled.Do all my own servicing now and will have to remember to check that each oil change. Thanks
Thanks I think I understand now. I was confusing the spring inside the actuator that you press in order to install the circlip holding the assembly together. _
Very interesting thread. If the FMF single flows roughly the same as the stock dual exhaust, then would the 110/110/120 setting produce the same numbers with the stock exhaust ? (assuming P/U kit installed and airbox baffle out) Also, dual Arrows are thought to flow better than both the Leo and FMF singles. In that case the 3 settings can go up again? Curious as to what else the ECU that ships with the Arrows does.
