TE511 - crappy pot metal shifter keeps loosening. Aftermarket Replacements?

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Fair enough, I misread. 30 dollars isn't so bad, but it still isn't a product for me. I have had the oem shifter on and off several times, I just make sure the splines are very clean and I use loctite.

I too am on the stock shifter with no problem. Just a thought the steel shifter give the added benefit of being able to bend/break the shift shaft while the aluminum one will likely give out. This comes to mind because I have had a steel shifter do this before. I do not how hard the shift shaft is to replace, but I suspect it isn't easy.

Sorry I threw the 80$ out there because that is what I was quote for a new OEM shifter from the dealer. It was like 87$ for a stock shifter. The way our cases hangout us short people end up dropping these things in the dirt off camber hills and stuff, which means 100$ per drop :'(

I may be very lucky (don't think so) & my Force sump guard might help, but I've thrown my bike down the track more times than I can remember & the gearshift comes up smiling.
The failure point is the spline which is better cut on the MCS aftermarket item.
Bending isn't an issue on my bike, but I have done 2 rear brake levers.

I'm not sure about all the fuss really, these shifters are the equivelant of $50 US & I just looked up the Australia Post web page, less than $22 Aus to ship it to the US with tracking.

And it will last longer than the original....easy really.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ALLOY-GE...orcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f3e38407b

I like the Force guards, do they still sell them?

Yes, I've only seen black advertised of late (mine is silver) but still available.
The single bolt fastening is great & the guard takes a pounding.

Actually I was quite lucky with the one I got, my bike was the last bike sold from the local BMW dealer before the local Berg dealer took on the Husky franchise.
The BMW dudes were clearing out their stock of accessories, I picked up my guard for $120.

Take some time and remove the Chain.. get some space there.
Remove the shit alen head bolt and install a 10.9 grade Flange head bold. Flangehead bolts wont come loose.

first lever was constantly loose until i stripped it. This is the second lever. Used at the first installation the Stock allen head bolt. It came loose right away.
So this now is a 10.9 grade M6 bolt with Flange head. Longer on purpose so i could install 3 washers between Head and Lever. Plus having the bolt coming out of the other side. The three Washers take tiny movement in the bolt away, just like in big application where we Install a 10-15 mm Spacer between Bolt and Rim's... They never come loose. So this Set up is on my bike now for 2500Km without re-tightening .

Tested the Prototype today. Works Great. Looks pretty good for piece of recycled Sherman Tank Track. It will look better when it goes back next week for powder coating.

All you need to do is replace the Stock Bolt with a good one and no more trouble ... 3600km and never came loose.

Mine never really came loose. The bolt was always tight the splines just rounded over. Maybe I shift to forcefully. Maybe I tightened it too much. There have been lots of post asking if someone made an aftermarket shifter so when I found one I posted it. If you want one you will be able to get it from Hall's.

wow that lever is a freaking beast.

I would rather see a breakaway lever made. Will be a much better solution for us. same with the brake.

I would say the IMS shift lever is for the Extreme Dual Sport rider. Tight Knarly, Rocky Steep, brutally difficult Single Track that runs you out into the middle of nowhere or places like BAJA where you don't want to break down and be stuck in the middle of nowhere. If you are an incredibly talented rider, ride tamer terrain or SuperMoto then the Aluminum one from Driven is a great looking shift lever that has received great reviews. The IMS one is Steel so it bends instead of breaking. Easier to bend one back in shape on the trail rather than to change out. The good news is that 449/511 Owners have some better options than the stock lever that has been randomly succesfull.

I am all for the steel lever as it will not save that much weight really.

My problem was offroad I would drop the bike all the time because I am 5' 6" and my friends are giants that stop on hills....all the time

Same with my husky cr125 2000 model it was down for a broken/stripped shifter....got an aluminum one, dropped it and stripped it at the splines...

Now I am waiting again for a stock steel one I purchased off ebay :\

I am 5'-6" as well. Tend to drop the bike more often than the taller guys. Sent the Suspension to Zip-Ty and they lowered and re-valved it, what a deference. Your confidence level goes way up when you can put your feet on the ground.

Oh I know, My 511 in my picture is lowered 1.5" front and rear, with also a cut down seat on 17" wheels and I can do anything and go anywhere with it no problems even on dirt with street tires its a easy ride.

My 125 on the other hand holy crap its a bitch to ride low speed. But i love all that travel on the big whoops.

hi
could send a picture of the end result?
thanks

Spec on the brass insert and picture of the final outcome would be great.

Driven shift lever PN DASC-89 is correct PN. perfect fit, duplicate of factory original except folding tip is a little longer, and splines are cut all the way through. Also, only around $35. Very satisfied with my purchase.