Yes easy! Dial the pot. back to setting 1. The slightly harder part is that it can take a few miles for the ECU to adapt again. Could be say 1/2 a tank of fuel before it settles down.
In this picture of ENGENIA's, I can see the screw that holds the big bore restricter in place, bottom of the spout. Looks like this fitted. Inside that is a baffle, stainless steel round, similar to the diametre of the spout. FYI- The baffle inside is actually only internally welded on one end (front) and the end cap secures it cleverly allowing for expansion from heat. The baffle needs room to get longer due to the higher tempratures internally than the outside. If it wasn't done like this and were to be fully fixed welded it would eventually fail.
That is a sexy looking pipe. I do not think it looks right on a dual sport for off road though. Now the strada for just road duty I see. I like paint because i do not have to shine and does not change colors when dirt bakes on it. It would drive me nuts because i would/could not let it discolor. Although I would think that any mud or dirt bakes on would change the color?
yes. Quirky spotted the screw in my pic that holds it in place. You can see it if you look closely on the under side of the tail pipe. As far as the build quality goes, it IS excellent. If you were going to be picky, you can see very fine buffer marks in it if you get the light in the right place. If you wanted that gone and make it a perfect mirror, it could be done on a rag wheel and polish. I don't see the point though on my bike. It's going to be covered in muck soon enough. Check out my pics. I'm well on the way already and I've added a few scratch marks while I was installing it. You can see these in my pics as well. I rode it to work this morning. The idle note is slightly deeper than before, but about the same volume. When you gain some revs it does bark a bit more, and it certainly feels as if it pulls stronger, but the main gains I see are reduced weight and the freeing up of that space on the right. I'm one happy camper.
Staintune fitted - artistry and engineering come together. It looks fabulous, sounds terrific, fitted liked a tailor-made glove and the quality is impressive.
Quirky, I will take some photos tomorrow. The bike was in a million pieces since I decided to modify the air box, install a brilliant stainless steel radiator guard, fit the new exhaust and clean up some of the wiring. Of course Murphy stalked me and my main wheels, the Rockster, had its battery die as well and as much as I like the beemer, instructions to replace the battery starts with 'first disassemble the motorcycle' MG
When you get one of these beauties, here's how I fitted it. The parts Removing the existing pipes is easy, by loosening the clamps, removing the fixing bolts and slipping off the pipes. The clips are removed and transferred to the new can. There are spacers and crinkle washers. Don't forget them. Undo the splitter pipe clamp and move it back as far as it will go. If there is not enough room for it to slip it off of the header pipe, like on mine, the header pipe must either be rotated up (I don't know if this will provide the extra space you need, I haven't tried it) or removed from the exhaust port completely. If yours is different to mine, so much the better. You can skip to step 10 - 13 then skip again to 19 - 23. (You lucky lucky ......) Remove the header pipe heat guard. Slide down the sensor plug, and release the plug from it's mate. You might not need to do this but I thought it would be prudent to be careful. Undo the header pipe nuts. The top nut is accessible with a 3/8 drive 13mm socket, uni-joint and extender. The bottom nut is "just" accessible through the hole in the down tube using a 1/4 drive 13mm socket and extender. It's not quite square with the stud. Slip off the header pipe. There will be two metal gaskets that clip onto the header. Separate the header and link pipes and remove the link pipe from the bike. Thread the Staintune link pipe into position. If you wrap it first you will protect that mirror finish. Slip the clamp over the header pipe. Slip the link pipe over the header pipe. Fit the header pipe back onto the exhaust port and slip the collar into place. Don't forget those two gaskets. You may need to bend the clips a bit to make them grip the ring enough to keep them in place while lining up the header pipe. Thread the top nut onto the stud finger tight Put the bottom nut into the 1/4 drive socket and carefully offer it up to the stud. It won't screw on because it is not in alignment with the stud. I used a sharpened flat screwdriver to rotate the nut in the socket until the threads would start. It's fiddly but fortunately, the nut has a flange that allows you to manipulate it's position. Don't drop the nut! Tighten the exhaust nuts Re-connect the sensor plug and slip it back into place. Smear some grease onto the inside pipe joints. High temp silicone grease is best. If you use ordinary grease like me, you'll end up with it burnt onto the pipe when it heats up. Have fun cleaning that up later. Slip the muffler into position with it's clamp in place and align it for best position. Make sure that the link pipe does not touch the engine casing. The Husky link pipe had witness marks on it from the casing, so minus points to the Italians..... Install the muffler mounting bolt & nut, but leave it loose. Remember the inner rubber washer and the metal one over it. Tighten the clamps and finally the mounting bolt Fit the heat guard and the job is done
I don't know whether it is because I have an ABS Terra but I had no problem removing the mid pipe and doing the whole install without having to remove or even loosen the header pipe.
Consider yourself blessed! You really don't want to remove the header pipe if you don't have to. For me there was no alternative. I tried for half an hour manipulating that splitter pipe in all directions, but I needed 10 more millimeters to get them apart.
Two possibilities I guess. Either my header pipe is 10 mm longer that it should be, or I didn't twig that simply rotating the header pipe up would have solved the problem. I'm leaning towards the latter since my splitter pipe was hard up against the engine casing. I'll never know though, because I don't plan to remove the new link pipe just to find out.
If anyone is interested, here's a pic of the internals of a Staintune pipe It is essentially straight through with a perforated pipe, wrapped in stainless steel wool with a strip of ss wool in each remaining void. Over that is a final wrapping of fine stainless steel wire.
Looks good, sounds awesome, weight loss is a bonus but best of all it frees up some space for an aux fuel tank! Looks so good, almost a pity to put the plastic heat shield on. But I did.
Found another Terra that wouldn't let me remove the splitter pipe. Two of us tried, but no luck. This one has been touching the engine casing just like mine. It even sprang when the LH muffler was removed. Perhaps I need Slowflyer to show me how he did it. Got time tomorrow lunch time? Not that I need it removed. I'm just interested to know why.
I am in Sale, Vic visiting the kids and grandkids. Rode the Rockster down - still getting over the hypothermia! I wonder if it is because mine has ABS? I had to manoeuvre the pipe past the ABS mono block and associated plumbing.I also had to have the clamp on the collar because once the pipe was fitted on the header, there was insufficient room to move the clamp along the pipe. That took me about 10 minutes to figure out. There is a reason my tag has the word 'Slow' in it!
Bugger! (It's no warmer in sunny Can'tberra. Snow down to 900m tonight. We're at 580m, so not even that to look forward to.) I'm going to have to work it out for myself then. Can't be ABS related. Bruce didn't have the issue.
