Excellent! Any guess on how long it will be before it is available for sale? (yeah a dumb question but had to ask). I wonder if Rekluse will do an install. I can do it but if availability is delayed because they have to make packaging and instructions, that may be a shortcut.
Give Matt a PM and see if he wants to give up his appointment. The clutch is easy to install and takes minimal tools. Adjusting the clutch is a process, but if you follow the online instructions easy as pie. You need to know how to adjust it periodically and check it pretty regular. It's not an install and forget part.
Hey Guys. From talking to Logan I would guess it will happen pretty quickly. They've done this a hundred times before. Just not with this exact bike. :-) I've also asked about getting one of their rear brake levers so I can provide feedback on that also. Sure will be nice not hunting for nuetral at every stop light...
And the answer came back on the rear brake. The Rekluse lever only works on bikes were the master cylinder and reservoir are a connected unit that can be pressurized. Will not work on bikes like ours with remote reservoirs.
After doing a solid trip (quite technical) on the weekend with a bunch of bikes, one a BMW GS 800 with Rekluse clutch, I would think very carefully about installing one on the Terra, or any bike for that matter. If you do, also install an auxhillary rear brake lever on the LH bar. If you fail on a steep climb and need to put both feet down, the front brake won't be enough to stop you rolling backwards and you probably wont be able to get your right foot on the brake. I don't think I would be prepared to lose my engine braking on steep declines either. I'm not bagging the Rekluse because I'm sure it'll be great for some riding, but just not for me...
I'm too short to put both feet down anyway, so gravity wins that fight regardless of what kind of clutch I have on it. And as a two-stroke fan, I am not accustomed to having engine braking off-road either! The Recluse isn't for everyone, but most reservations people have about it initially go away once the brain is re-calibrated. If setup correctly, they'll climb hills with no issue. The bike will still have engine braking. You can also simulate clutch feathering with the combination of throttle and brake or retain the clutch lever. You just can't let the engine rpms drop to the disengagement point in all of those scenarios. The LHRB setup is the bomb, though - everyone should do it. That combined with the Recluse make things so easy in the technical stuff that it feels like cheating. Come to think about it... It is like buying skill regardless of how high you game is.
I took to it like a duck to water. All upside for me. I only had to relearn leaving my feet on the pegs and driving.
Hi Sussurf. Thank you very much for the feedback. I appreciate you're take on it. The engine "stops you rolling backwards" when it is stalled or when you give it gas. If I read your scenario correctly the crux of the problem you describe is the inability of the Rekluse to stall. Unfortunately only dirt bikes can use the current Rekluse rear brake lever system. My hope is that the Terra with Rekluse can use the throttle to hold the bike on the hill without using the front brake. I anticipate difficulty in accurately controlling the throttle but perhaps not as much difficulty as feathering the clutch, holding/releasing the front brake and twisting the throttle. Matt
I understand how you can make the Rekluse grip the rear wheel by using throttle. I just can't see how you'd have the opportunity when everything is going pear-shaped & you're trying to stop the bike from falling on a steep rutted/rocky hill.
After watching Romaniacs on youtube, I discovered such a device existed and sought it out. It took awhile before I ordered it up and ran into the fitment issues. I'm so glad I ordered it up. I am not a racer either. Top riders use it, so I'm not sure what kind of riding you might be talking about. Surely it is nothing as extreme as the Romaniacs. I was quite content with the money back guarantee offered by Rekluse, for 30 or 60 days. I didn't figure I wouldn't like it, or would not have ordered it. The Rekluse did exceed what I expected as far as getting used to it, I thought I might have to adjust how I drove etc, I was pleasantly surprised. Two things, one is that because the Rekluse does slightly drive at full stop, it can be tough getting into neutral, and the clutch tension is a bit more. You do need to adjust driving to shift to neutral while rolling up to stop in traffic, if you wish to relax your clutch hand. I go to neutral most of the time, vs holding the clutch or letting the disks slip at stop. Installation is easy enough, and converting back would be even easier. Come on by and try it out. My first posting about it http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/clutch.44280/#post-431328 almost 2 years ago.
So you will regain engine compression braking if the engine stops? If so, for an uphill spill could you just hit the kill switch to stop the backward rolling? That is the first thing I do on an unplanned get off now. Also, I am going to do the COBDR and loss of compression braking while descending from many of the long downhill descents from 12,000+ ft passes would not be good. Could I dial back the clutch adjustment easily at the summit so the Recluse was inoperative and go to clutch mode, then readjust it when the downhill pucker factor reduced?
Great info guys. Thanks for your patience. Rather than nip around the edges, here is the problem I am trying to solve. -----Skip this part if you are are a sound bite kind of person------ As background, I use the Terra for adventure riding and not technical off road stuff. It has the usual panniers and camping gear on board and I have switched to lightweight backpacking gear and soft panniers with loads carried low as I can. I will be travelling typical non expert sections of the BDRs with my son who pretends he is not watching me like a nanny. Some sections can be challenging, but mostly the worst would be bad sections of rutted steep jeep roads or two track with sharp off camber switchbacks in areas with steep dropoffs where mistakes can be bad, maybe fatal. There will be mud, sand and water crossings. I am 71 tears old with cancer, but not dead yet. They tell me as I age, I will not heal as quickly as I used to, but what do they know. I am not a novice but too cautious to call myself intermediate. I have done the WABDR and Alaska and the Dempster all the way to the Arctic Circle. I intend to ride all of the BDRs as long as my body holds out. I ride Goldilocks style: not too fast, not too slow, but just right. OK, slow. There I said it. On highways I travel the speed limit. For those unaware, the Terra gets fantastic mpg IF you keep the speed below 60 mph. It drops from 60 mpg to 45 mpg at 70+ mph. I travel in remote locations and range is always a concern. Also, safety trumps everything. Now back to the regularly scheduled program...... ----------------- Unskip this part--------- The Terra is a great bike but I find I am slipping the clutch too much in some situations. First gear is too high. It does not lug well. I miss the grunt of my departed KLR 650 that has tractored me through many challenges. If I drop a tooth on the countershaft that might help at the expense of highway cruising. The Rekluse will completely solve all of these problems, but brings it's own as has been noted. The main one for me is downhill compression braking. It is not fail safe if I do something stupid like lock up the rear brake on one of those long steep downhill descents, especially a downhill sharp switchback with loose, rutted areas and baby head rocks. A runaway, sliding bike would not be good, even if it was just for a short time. So, oh wise ones, is the Rekluse the right choice for me, in your humble opinion.
I haven't ridden a TR650 with Rekluse clutch, only an 800GS. I considered a 15t front sprocket but for various reasons dismissed it. Instead I went to a 49t rear sprocket and that transformed the bike. By comparison to other bikes/standards it's still probably a little tall geared but at no time riding up Mt. Pinnibar was I looking for a lower gear. Even crawling along in 1st at 2k rpm up steep sections I still had power on tap when I needed it, and mostly without having to feather the clutch. This bike tractors really well and the fuelling (when sorted with the latest firmware) is as good as I could wish for. Add some Pulstar spark plugs & make sure your valve clearances are good and you have an outright adventure (not enduro) weapon.
I like my 15t because it puts my speeds on the dirt into manageable gears. Before the 15, I was constantly shifting. Still works great on the road. I tried a 14t and that is great for off road, but was no longer good on fast tar. MPG dropped off with the 14t. Engine braking is not a problem. If the back wheel is driving the engine, it is spinning the engine faster than idle, thus clutch is engaged. You have to slow to nearly idle for it to cut loose, and free wheel. Also, there are springs you can change out to have the clutch engage at different rpm, to suit your personal preferences. Not something you will do out on the road, although you could. Not many wrenches needed for the job.
It sounds like a gearing change is a good first step for sure. And the gearing will also help on the downhills if I go to the Rekluse or not. I'll probably go with the 15T since I already have it. Will be doing some practice runs in the local mountains in about a week and will report back. Thanks a bunch, sussurf and mag00 for the excellent advice.
I don't claim to be wise, and I my Rekluse experience is on dirt bikes and a DRZ, not the Terra yet. But here is my opinion: 1) Someone told you that you do not have engine braking during a decent with the Rekluse. That is not true as long as it is set up correctly. If you are experiencing engine braking, then the wheel is being turned fast enough that the accompanying engine speed will be above idle (thus the clutch will be engaged.) You won't have any if you kill the engine though. I prefer my engagement point as close to idle as possible, but you should experiment. It is possible that the surface is loose enough that the rear wheel would be skidding more than turning in which case you could lose engine braking. But if that is the case, then the engine brake becomes less effective than the rear brake anyway, so no loss. Unrelated side note, but also, practice using your front brakes on descents if you can. Most of the weight (and available traction) is going to be on the front wheel. I've had so many "experts" tell me that you shouldn't use the front brake on steep descents, but I don't know where that nugget of advice comes from. I find the front brake to be the most effective tool for controlling descent. I'm sure there is a point where a descent is so steep and/or the surface so loose that perhaps front brake isn't advisable, but I with my meager skills have probably looked upon such descents and considered them "end of trail" obstacles rather than challenges to be conquered. 2) I would definitely drop a tooth on the front sprocket for your intended trip. 3) See if you can find anyone locally in the dirt bike community that has a Rekluse and would be willing to let you sample it. I was always reluctant to plunk down the cash until someone let me try one out.
