Yeah I adjusted my rear master clevis and the negative stop on the rear brake all the way down. I've still got the rubber pads on my pegs, but if I wear boots it's still a bit of a stretch to get my toe over the pedal without picking my arch up off of the peg. It's a bit uncomfortable to try and cover the rear pedal while wearing boots when I'm up on one wheel... I've considered taking a wedge out of the pedal arm near the pivot, TIGing it back up and smoothing it over...
I used some quick steel J&B weld at the junction between the brake arm and oblong adjuster to get the brake lever down more. Also I adjusted as much slack in the mechanism to provide as much travel as possible before the rear brake engages.
New to the thread and enjoyed the read. I have been getting my TE630 to my liking over the past few months. mainly trail the beast and have found the biggest issue is a total lack of zip out of the gate, meaning I have to heave the bike over boulders, valleys etc. Finally got on to Motoextreme here in CA and have just purchased a 14 tooth front sprocket, power up kit, JD tuner kit and will be going for the pipe next. Sounds from the thread I'm on the right track and will let you know. Done some airbox mods also and am planning some more. Surpised everyone is talking about how the mods affect top end as I find the TE has goops of top end out of the box and fewer comments about how to get the front end lighter for obstacles (also softened up the suspension both ends and dropped the forks through the yokes about 2" to help in the same _ or at least have the ability to paddle out of trouble when I don't lift the front in time!). Going to replace the tires with DOT approved Dunlops for my next ride in a couple of weeks. Will see how that goes too.....
I've found that the rear tire is a pretty large limit when trying to loft the front end - never washes out on me but when I try to goose it to get the front end up it just spin when I'm in dirt. Wouldn't softening up the rear end be counterproductive to what you want to do? The initial motion will be to compress the rear suspension further; I would think a stiffer rear would make more of the torque go towards lofting the front.
I'm not sure which Husky pegs will fit but I'm using my '09 WR125 pegs on my SM630. They are a perfect fit.
510 pegs are a direct fit; no modifications necessary. They were over $100 if I remember correctly. In hindsight, I probably could have gotten some aftermarket pegs at that price.
Travis, I agree with your assumption, but my bike is a slug on bottom end. Even if I could get the back wheel to spin when I gun it, it would be good, but it doesn't even have that to it.... hence the upgrades and hopefully I will be in a position to play from there. In respect to tires, I'm going to be fitting a pair of Pirelli Scorpion Pro's this weekend, so will see what difference that makes too.
I know this thread is old but from the moment I saw this bike I finally knew what I wanted to replace my 530exc. I started looking around for a used 630 and found one that was somewhat local to me. It was setup for commuter/long distance duty. But I've been slowly transforming it into a copy of Billf's machine. I'm constantly on the lookout for another front end as well as another set of black wheels. But until then, this is where I'm at currently. Went from this: and currently looks like this
I know some people use these for adv, but extra pegs, windshields, bags, etc made them look too small. Each to their own Though
