Just to chime in on this if you run the bike after your oil change for 15+ miles you will get SIGNIFICANT oil expansion. I put in 2.4 quarts and then ran down the road. When I got home I checked the level and it was well over the max line. I ended up siphoning out a good bit of the excess oil while it was still hot to get it just below the max line. Eyeballing it, I would say it ended up bringing the fill back to 2.1 or 2.2 Qts.
on page 122/176 in the service manual, is the bolt with the washer with the 40nm spec which doesn't appear to go anywhere the sump plug?
I did my first oil change and other than melting my funnel to the exhaust pipe (I'll not do that next time) I found the process and details shared in the ADVRider thread very helpful. And I found that using a 1 inch end wrench on the fitting held it plenty still to pop loose Gunter's uber torqued fitting. And I didn't have a 24mm socket in my toolbox (I'll remedy that my next trip to Sears), but found a 15/16" worked without marring the bolt. In fact, if Sears only has 12 point sockets in the 24mm size...I may just keep using the 15/16" since it's 6 point. I do note that there were references to "crush washers", but my experience is those critters are the one-time use type washers made of aluminum or pot metal and designed to visibly crush as you torque them. The washers on the Husky appear to be copper based and I've found they tend to be reusable and don't leak if you torque properly. So, didn't add a dab of anything and will be monitoring for leaks. Changing oil on the Husky reminded me of doing it on a Honda XR650R...except that plastic oil cap/stick really is chintzy. The 2000 cc mark worked well for me and found it to be closer to the minimum level and noticed it moved to midway after I warmed the oil up. Good for some more miles!
Those copper washers are indeed crush washers. The copper ones tend to last a little longer. When in doubt, just flip it over. I normally get 2 oil changes out of a washer, one in each direction. Flipping it allows it to reform itself to a tight fit. However, I never go over two uses. Some would call reusing them bad form, but this method has never let me down. Also, a little Yamabond 4 goes a long way. I use it on the drain plug of all my old bikes, and it keeps them from leaking. Those who have owned a 60's Triumph know about leaks...
A tip for those crush washers I've learned from working on espresso equipment for years is that they work-harden each time they're crushed. You can get a lot of uses out of them by heating them with a torch until there's a rainbow-like color change, then letting them cool and reusing them. This anneals the copper and makes them soft enough that they'll squish out and seal well again.
Yep! The ones I need for oil changes are pretty common, so I just flip, then discard after two changes. However, I had some very peculiar ones involved in my oil cooler on my Triumph Bonneville. I couldn't find replacements anywhere, and I just knew the originals were going to leak when I changed to the new oil cooler. I ended up annealing them, and they worked like a charm. These were large OD, large ID, with thin walls, so they were far from flat when removed. For good measure, I smashed them between two steel plates in my bench vise once I got them red hot. This flattened them out nicely, which made for an easier install too.
Did my first oil change today at 1000km and the whole procedure went off without issue. I just want to say thanks for all that did their changes without the shop manual and the small tips that they provided. So here is what I did. I read the shop manual and put it on my iPad. Thanks Cafe husky and of course Husky. 1: used a adjustable wrench to hold the oil tank drain valve and cracked it loose. 2: cut a 4 litre windshield washer bottle at 45 degree angle so it wedged behind the tank drain valve. 3: put oil drain pan under the washer bottle cap removed and removed the the Allen bolt. 4: removed the oil fill dipstick, then the oil started to flow. When the oil was almost completely drained, I put the cap on the bottle and slipped the drain pan under the centre of the bike, 5: removed the main drain bolt with a 24mm socket and ratchet. I noticed the iron residue on the magnetic tip of the drain plug. I whipped it with thumb and index finger and felt for large chunks, but it was smooth as silk. All is good. 6: removed front sprocket cover,then the oil filter cover and discarded the oil filter after close examination. 7: centred the bike and allowed all the oil to drain maybe 4 minutes. 8: reinstalled drain bolt with new washer. I ordered 10 drains and 10 oil reservoir washers and keep them on hand. My bike developed an oil leak on the crankcase that I noticed it at 800km. Nothing obvious. 9: reinstalled the oil filter and noticed that the k&N does not come with a new oring. Cheap buggers.put the sprocket cover back on. 10: installed a new washer in the tank valve Allen screw. 11: put 1.5 litres of oil in the tank as per manual. 12: ran bike for thirty seconds as per manual, then put the remaining oil. Both litre bottles were completely empty. The bike oil level is bang on after going through a heat cycle. Here is the funny thing. I took the old oil and refilled the oil bottles and they were overflowing. All in all I took longer than a KlR and easier than a KTM 640. Cheers
I ordered them through my Husky dealer, the parts had BMW part numbers on them.its a copper washer like the main crankcase drain bolt. They came from the states, and I would assume that KTM shipped them. Cheers
Changed mine this weekend, went well except for one little mistake. I've got a SW Motech skid plate, it's got a hole for draining the oil. I pulled the plug with the bike on the side stand, it doesn't clear. Thankfully I have a really big catch pan, and I put an ever bigger drip pan on under that when doing this sort of thing. I now have the most lubricated skid plate in the northwest, perhaps the country. Next time I'll just pull the skid plate, it's not a big deal.
I did that on my 510...once...then I remembered about the toilet paper roll trick. It had a Scorpion Skid Plate. It works OK on the TR (SW Motech) but you really have to keep pressure on the TP roll pushing it up against the engine. The aluminum engine case is cut square and the TP roll does not seal real good. You still get a couple of drips.
That's a good idea, and one I had not heard. Should have made the connection, as when I saw oil running out the left front front and rear of the plate I loudly exclaimed "Oh, s**t!"
Just giving this thread a bump because there might be others out there like me who are approaching their first oil change. A read of this thread provided me with a lot of hints for a smooth oil/filter change. A few notes of my oil change. I cracked the tank drain screw, and then put my funnel in place before I unscrewed it. The Altrider crash bar came in handy for strapping the funnel in place. This funnel has a filter between the top and bottom sections, so I was able to unthread the drain screw and just let it and the washer drop into the funnel and when it had finished draining I could get them out of there, rather than trying to fish them out of the drain pan on the floor. My local harley dealer was selling these geniune harley funnels for $6.24 Perfect for the Terra There was a mess that was almost impossible to avoid when pulling the filter cover off. I just jammed a rag under the filter cover and around the front sprocket to try to soak up the oil before it went everywhere, with limited success. The O ring on the oil filter cover was almost impossible to see when the cover came off so some care is needed to locate that and reinstall it on the cover .
