TE/TC Hakkalugi's TE150

Beautiful i'm gonna go swap it out now & take her for a spin. Then pop my carb open and see what main is in there.

How long do I have to wait till a moderator doesnt have to approve my reply's? I like quick answers but its tough when it takes a couple days for my post to be able to be seen...

I felt the opposite effect with the power valve springs although the bike only came with an aux. pv spring. The stock one looks like a black progressive spring & is very soft, the yellow was just a normal looking spring but very firm, when it hit- it hit hard with the yellow. I put the stocker back in I like that feel better.

Im now at a 37.5 pilot & stepped down to a 470 main (stock 480). Stock needle at mid clip. The air screw is about 1.5 turns out. Heres a WOT 4th gear plug chop after I cleaned the plug & took it for a 10 min ride around the complex.

I know i need a new plug (ouch on that price) for a proper chop but it was black and sooty before i went down a jet on the main. It looks pretty good to me, not lean and not sooty, not to mention no more spooge from my pipe. It sure feels healthier just from the little bit of riding around the house I have here. I might try one more clip down on the needle jet but im planning on taking it for a ride this sunday again so id like to put some time on it before I tinker some more because it feels good. Also im running 93 @ 50:1 Amsoil Dominator if anyone cares to know.

Prob stop there.... Plugs looks pretty good. You can also use a Mikuni 1/2 clip needle shim.
Makes adjustment lil finer.

Another incredibly helpful tip I didnt know about

I'm at 1500-1800ft running amsoil 50:1 race vp110 stock needle 2nd clip pj35 470main temps low 70s stock spring power valve . Its pretty close but in real tight slow stuff you can tell little fat

Used to be that you get your jetting dialed at summer temps.

If this helps. I use a red shim and holder off 04 suzuki RM 125.

I slide the red 1/2 clip shim under around 70 degree temps.

Around 60 degrees I pull shim from under needle then store it above clip after I make a whole clip richer move.

The Suzuki holder is recessed lil to accommodate shim.

Parts 40 - 41

http://www.suzukipartsnation.com/oemparts/a/suz/508b1824f870023530723d13/carburetor-model-k4

Take your carb off then bottom bowl. Tip your carb side ways so that your float barely touches that lil spring needle in the seat. Float height is 6-7mm. But set your float height from bottom of carb where float bowl seals, at 8 mm.
At 6-7mm in woods, you get gas entering carb or running out your hoses and can make bike load up from leaning and hills.

Then go back and fine tune.

Walt, do you still have the old pics to modify the float bowl and drain plug?

I will look. I lost a bunch of pics that I didn't have backed up to a lightening strike computer fry a few years ago. You can have all the protection in the world and if you get a direct hit it won't matter.

Rode about 50 miles today, bike is still fat on the low/mid range. I need to adjust my float before I do anything els I think thats one of my main problems. I love this bike though, I couldnt be happier.

You set yourself up for this one:

Who cares if it lil fast bastard!

New Husky's are Dead Sexy!

Found good illustration for you.

Go 8mm, remember this has lil spring tip inside seat. So just as it is tilted, to hit lil spring plunger.

If you go 8mm + you stand the chance of your carb leaning out some or running out of fuel on long straight way.

Then take your bottom overflow tube, when all your jetting is done, up over your vent hose bracket then down.
This saves on fuel consumption.

Cool, got my float set better, went down a notch on the stock needle, and am now about 2.5 turns out on the air screw. Seems better down bottom but its always hard running it around my house vs in the trails. I dont get any fuel drip with it leaned over like it did while riding normally.

Popped my clutch lever off & bent it in a little. gave it a bleed too but doesnt seem any better. Gonna try again next time im dirty & gonna watch some youtube diy's.

Messed around with the DSLR again for a little today. Might get a ride in tomorrow, definitely getting out friday and probably sunday too.

Those are some magazine pics!

Just watch your plug.....

Also, for dead engine start. Always pull your clutch in while engine is dead and in gear.

Rock bike back and forth few times to break clutch discs loose. Keep holding clutch in till you hit button.

Pull your lever off. That lil slide plunger that lever pushes into clutch master.... Like a long dowel pin.

Run down and see if you can find a rubber automotive vacuam cap plug, that will slide over it tight.

Usually, they are black kinda thick rubber.

Slide it over the end and trim enough so that it stays on dowel pin, out by the lever. See if the lil extra will help? Watch your adjustment so you don't push dowel pin too far in master cylinder.

My Moose Arc levers can be adjusted to push the dowel too far.

Totally off subject and I meant to post reminder other day but anyways...I assume that you set your sag when first got bike now that you been riding and broke everything in go back and check sag and reset it. Usually adds around 8-10mm after some riding. First full day riding I had mine went from 105 to 115.

I will check that out Darty, & i never set my sag yet, I figured id give it a few rides to break in, its probably good now. Ill keep an eye on my plug ill be out there tomorrow in some real rough nasty stuff, probably sam eon friday but tomorrow will give me a good solid ride and see where I need to be.