Ah! That´s a relief. Thanx for the response. I thought I had to rev up to the level that I wanted to change. Have tried out the settings I set last night (+++ on the top end) and there´s absolutely no doubt about the power increase from down at bottom to almost to the top. But there´s a splutter about 1/3rd the way up and idle is now so low that it sometimes dies at traffic lights. So have still got a bit of further experimenting to do. On the whole ... I´m very satisfied with the JD and the EHS. Don´t think there´s much more room for improvement on the 630.
Just read the instructions thoroughly... Have you done the PowerUp kit? I fixed my sputter by bringing the Orange/Blue level down to ~2. That means that it will bring the midrange (orange) fueling in lower in the RPM's. You may be able to fix the rough idle by bumping up the green level.
Excellent!! The low idle and sputter at 1/3 throttle can be adjusted. Try increasing the low (green) setting from 3/4 to 4 or 4/5. Without access to a dyno or air fuel mixture gauge you'll have to play with the idle two ways. First with the set screw on the throttle body and then your JD tuner. Be sure the cold start lever is not hung up. A friend of mine (ATD1 on here) had issues with his idle. We found out the cold start cable was hung up and slightly open. Your real close to full power man!!
Yeah when I was tuning, I would get to an RPM and then drop throttle slightly, and if it sputtered and popped (lean) I would bump up a notch in that area. Now everything's smooth from idle to redline and it'll tote a wheel and slide around just fine with stock gearing. (SMS with open cans and open airbox, btw...)
Hy, I'm new of this very usefull forum and I'm writing from Italy. I modified the air box of my SMS 630 using a speaker grid. It is about 1 our of work and it is a very cheap solution. Mine is 3 inch but, if you like, you can use smaller or larger grid, in different colours. It's not necessary to use glue but only some little screws. Thanks
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/carbon-air-box-cover.42546/#post-417243 Pictures on post #5. I also used some rubber panel edging on the cover fins to hold the filter from deforming back close to the cover. The entire filter is now used not just the first few inches. Did it make any more power? No idea, could not tell any difference from my seat of the pants dyno.
that looks good. i have thought of something like that... Do you have any engine upgrades? or do you run it stock?
so you have almost the same setup as i have... and you dont think your bike needs more air? The previous owner on my bike have drilled holes in the lid. But i dont like that. A larger snorkel would be the best option.. for example if crossing a bit deeper water or something.
I did think the bike needed more air that is why I went to the effort to build the larger snorkel. I didn't want to drill holes in the lid because I live in a very wet area (West Coast BC) and I did not feel the holes were a viable option for me even with the membrane. The bike runs great, just did not notice any real difference between the before and after snorkel mod.
Well, i have never tried the bike without modded airbox. But previous owner told me that it is a difference.. So now i dont know what to think
Little bit of duct tape over the holes and you could feel the difference for yourself. Worth a shot anyways.
