I have the power up kit, a JD kit and twin leo's. I would like to open up the airbox a bit mor than the stock setup (maze and snorkel removed). I don't like how only the one area on the filter is dirty in the current set-up. What are some of my options? At one point I saw someone who used small round breather inserts, but I cant find the post. I saw the latest idea, use an EHS outerwears pre-filter, but I really don't like the look or the $60 cost. Ideas?
I punched a few 1.5" holes near the snorkel, and 3 1" holes along the bottom of the lid and glued in some course wire screen. I also cut out all the little "baffle" tabs, leaving the three round posts to support the filter. It made a noticeable difference and I had to compensate with the JD.
Don't confuse that single dirty spot to be the only air intake through your filter. That is only the first point of intake so dirt concentrates there. The air box lid has those 1" rubber standoffs that push against the filter. This 1" space across the entire top surface of filter is where air passes through, not only the spot directly under the snorkle oval. Even if that oval were to get 100% clogged with dirt it is probably only 5-7% restriction. So if you want more air and will tune for it that is one thing. But for a stock bike no biggie to have that small oval a little dirty. _
What´s the alternative to the EHS? Cutting holes in the airbox and covering them with wire mesh is going to let in snow, ice and rain and make washing the bike a hazard. I´ve ordered the EHS so that I can then play around with the JD.
If they didn't have so much text on them and they used black button head or countersunk bolts, I would maybe pick one up... My bike is an SMS, so extra holes behind the body panel and under the bottom don't worry me with rain and such, and it hasn't proven to be a problem yet. Now if I spent a lot of time on dusty dirt track, that might be a different story.
I have the same Leo slip-on pipes and JD tuner set up. Drill some holes from the inside of the air box to allow more air to flow. I managed to drill several 1/2" and 3/4" holes without disrupting the inner support tabs. The stock air box has great potential but needs a larger intake opening. All the new holes are behind the white side panel so the air box appears stock. There is also some protection from rain and puddle spray. SilverBullet is correct, a stock set up will not benifit from opening up the air box alone. Crank up the JD tuner to 7 in mid and high. The added air flow and fuel will result in a LOT more power.
Have deep water crossings been an issue? Took one at tank level and never even sputtered. Wondering if your setup may be an option for me.
If you do extensive deep water crossings that will be above the air box inlets then there will be an issue. I use waterproof grease between the inside of the air box and where the air filter meets. I also use plenty of air filter oil to trap dirt and repel water. If you plan on a wet ride for the day just use electrical tape to block the holes and put the oem snorkel back on. Remember to back off on your JD tuner because you'll be too rich and just waste fuel.
Agree that the EHS cover could look better. But changing the bolts etc. shouldn´t be too much trouble. I use the bike in winter and in all weathers and have quite some experience with flooded airboxes on other bikes. Can´t see that there´s any alternative to the EHS (will see when it arrives). Certainly not any of the examples shown here.
Organ donor, do you own a car?? Did you say ride in the snow...on a dual sport??...Wow man!! Now you're a dedicated rider!! My bike sits nice in the garage until the roads are cleared of snow and the temps are reasonable to ride. I would not advise anyone to open their air box without using common sense. A friend of mine had a Suzuki Katana 1100 with the air box removed and installed K&N pod filters. He couldn't ride in the rain or through a puddle for that matter. I remember from my snowmobile days that D&D makes bullseye air intakes. These could work for our all season and weather riding friends.
If snow and water intrusion into a drilled air box are a concern then try adding the following from Starting Line Products. This screen could be attached inside or outside the air box opening. I may try this product myself even though I've yet to have any issues with typical riding in New England. "These universal SLP Powder Snow Pre-Filters are perfect for custom intake areas on many modified sleds. They work extremely well in areas that are exposed to airborne powder snow. This unique filter repels snow and water yet passes air right through." Sold per each. 13 3/8" x 7 1/4" $16.95
Don´t own a car. Got rid of my last one about 20 years back. Got two bikes (the CCM´s gotta K&N pod air filter)
I would like to do the EHS prefilter on my 630. BUT, I would first like to see dyno graphs or more than "I gained power with it" claims. Increased intake noise can fool the senses into thinking there is a lot more power, the Butt Dyno being notoriously unreliable. However if you say you can reliably power wheelie in such and such a gear at a certain RPM and before the mod you couldn't, I am willing to mostly believe there is a benefit. I also I do not want a big drop in MPG's. More air in + more fuel in sometimes = lower MPG's, sometimes not as may be a more efficient fueling. Basically my power up + LV Titanium single pipe system is entirely adequate and I am still on the stock 15 tooth front sprocket, the bike no longer feels like it needs a 14. But I am sure the 14 I bought will be fun
Do a search here and you will see countless posts (some by me) raving about the difference an un-corked 630 motor can be. Regarding your drop in fuel mileage concern, my bike will go about 95-100 miles before the low fuel light comes on. I think that's pretty good. You do have the option to back off on your JD tuner if running low on fuel and are worried you'll run out. I run a 14t front sprocket and my bike will do 100mph...with MT-21 tires. Now that's friggen impressive to me! The big knobby tires rob horsepower but the Husky powers through.
Have now installed the EHS (with a fine wire mesh cut to size to protect the membrane. So will now have to set the JD tuner (tried it in the workshop but didn´,t want to frighten the neighbours). Just hope I can get to grips with all those flashing lights. Looks a bit daunting.
Na, it's a piece of cake. Once your JD unit is installed fire up the engine and wait 5 seconds for the JD unit to cycle. Don't change the settings yet, start with the pre-set numbers in each zone and take a ride. This way you'll have a base line to start with. Next with the current engine performance fresh in your mind, go ahead and turn up the mid (yellow) and high (red) from 3 to 7. Now go and rip down the highway testing the midrange to top end power. Let us know how she runs.
Can the mid (yellow) and high (red) be set with the engine idling ... or must it be revved up to the setting to be changed? If so, I´ll have to go out into the country as it´d be a bit too loud for the built up area I live in.
As long as the bike is running, just sitting at idle. You select the range (G,Y,R,YB,RB) with the "Mode" button.
