• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Te 250 2011 oil choice

You dont think it has anything to do with who supplies the factory at the best price ??? (And sponsors the WEC team ) !

Husky used to recomended Motorex 10/60, then did a "deal" with Castrol (who to my knowledge dont have a 10/60) and suddenly 10/50 is OK !!!

I have used Motorex 10/60 for years with zero issues. Hence I will keep using it.

Oil Threads ! Ya got to love them !
 
I don't believe that Husqvarna would change there specifications and risk millions over night like you suggest without proper prior testing on there engines first, no. I do believe that Castrol/BP could make any grade they wanted to and yet Husqvarna chooses to use a specification on the low side. I do know that after racing these engines for years under some of the harshest conditions that they run extremely hot. I also know that the additional flow helps to keep the bearings surfaces cooler and will extend the engine life for most riders.
 
Tinken said:
I don't believe that Husqvarna would change there specifications and risk millions over night like you suggest without proper prior testing on there engines first, no. I do believe that Castrol/BP could make any grade they wanted to and yet Husqvarna chooses to use a specification on the low side. I do know that after racing these engines for years under some of the harshest conditions that they run extremely hot. I also know that the additional flow helps to keep the bearings surfaces cooler and will extend the engine life for most riders.
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Why not run a 10W40 then? Wouldn't it flow even more?
 
Tinken said:
I don't believe that Husqvarna would change there specifications and risk millions over night like you suggest without proper prior testing on there engines first, no. I do believe that Castrol/BP could make any grade they wanted to and yet Husqvarna chooses to use a specification on the low side. I do know that after racing these engines for years under some of the harshest conditions that they run extremely hot. I also know that the additional flow helps to keep the bearings surfaces cooler and will extend the engine life for most riders.
Click to expand...

Interestingly, neither the Castrol RS or Power 1 are true synthetic oils. The product data sheets for both state the base oils are "highly refined". This means they are a hydro-cracked mineral oil, not a synthetic ester base stock.
 
Mike-AK said:
Why not run a 10W40 then? Wouldn't it flow even more?
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It would if you could still meet the minimum requirements for pressure. Ty was able to design a larger oil pump for the 310 that increased flow. Also I see Husqvarna has increased the banjo sizes on the MY13 310's for increased flow.
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
I am running a 10w40 synthetic in the winter and a 15w50 synth in the summer, sometimes, I mix 'em 1 quart and 1 quart and run a 12.5w45....:D .
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Thanks for the idea, OHR. I found a viscosity mixing calculator at: http://widman.biz/English/Calculators/Mixtures.html. Since the Amsoil 20W50 is on the heavy end of the 50 weight scale, I can mix 12 ounces of it with 20 ounces of the Amsoil 10W40 and come up with a quart of 10W50 that is at the heavy end of the 10W scale, and the lighter end of the 50 weight scale. Perfect! :banana:
 
Tinken said:
I don't believe that Husqvarna would change there specifications and risk millions over night like you suggest without proper prior testing on there engines first, no. I do believe that Castrol/BP could make any grade they wanted to and yet Husqvarna chooses to use a specification on the low side. I do know that after racing these engines for years under some of the harshest conditions that they run extremely hot. I also know that the additional flow helps to keep the bearings surfaces cooler and will extend the engine life for most riders.
Click to expand...

It will be interesting to see what Oil Brand / Type Husky recommend in 2014 now we are under the "KTM Banner" !

I would have a little bet its back to Motorex ;) (Like KTM and Berg).
 
DG Harv Serv said:
It will be interesting to see what Oil Brand / Type Husky recommend in 2014 now we are under the "KTM Banner" !

I would have a little bet its back to Motorex ;) (Like KTM and Berg).
Click to expand...

Hi Harv,

I found it in the end. I found a good price at TNT racing. Take a look it might be better than what you pay. Thanks for the advice.


Cheers for the help everyone. Decided to go for the 10w60 suggested by "DG Harv serv" seeing as he is running his bikes in the same climate and had no problem. ANd have always liked Motorex
 
Coffee said:
The owners manual for my 2006 TE250 lists AGIP Racing 4T (10W-60) as the recommended oil.
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OK, AGIP in the Manual, Husky in UK was Motorex, I believe in Australia PFG recommend Motul. This is backing up my therory !

Recomendations are more to do with dollars and sponsorship than scientific tests !!!

Personally I believe any reptable brand of syn 10/60 will do the job just fine !
 
Tinken said:
That's pretty thin for a 310.:thinking: Lowest I would go is 40W, 0w40's, 5w50's.
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You seem very knowledgeable, and I am knew to this whole oil thing (in other words I don't know as much about as you guys do). What do you think I should run in my 310? Or what weight should I run?
 
Well, as you have probably seen from my other posts, those numbers on the oil bottles are pretty meaningless. So depending on the brand you would like to go with, we just need to pull the data sheets and look at the viscosity cSt's. Husqvarna chooses 17cSt @100°C for the 250/310's, but I have seen people use as low as 14.5 cSt with great results. Mobil1 makes a 0w40 at 14.5cSt and 5w50 at 17.4cSt. Both of these sell for under $9/quart and won't break the budget. 0w40 can be found at Walmart or autozones, etc. 5w50 is available at Napa auto stores. Look around and see what you can source. :)
 
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