Suspension Setup recommendations.

[PC.]

My 50 twin chambers kinda suck, and they have been valved. Beat me to death all summer. Im going to try this out, give jake something to do other than watch oprah, thanks for the info!

Werd to that!
Even after a revalve to soften them up they are still killing me. They're polar opposites from my 50mm open chambers which absorb everything.
My suspension guy knows what I like and has always delivered, but these forks seem the least impacted by a revalve and proper springs. It makes sense that the valve is wrong and the tuners can only band aid the situation with the shims. I dont know nuthin about suspension science, but that major overhaul of the ports has to make a huge difference.

Thanks for posting this up Darin!

Ben,
holler at me if you're gonna order and we can split shipping, eh?

 

[montgob1]

will do, maybe early january.

 

[dartyppyt]

Werd to that!
Even after a revalve to soften them up they are still killing me. They're polar opposites from my 50mm open chambers which absorb everything.
My suspension guy knows what I like and has always delivered, but these forks seem the least impacted by a revalve and proper springs. It makes sense that the valve is wrong and the tuners can only band aid the situation with the shims. I dont know nuthin about suspension science, but that major overhaul of the ports has to make a huge difference.

Thanks for posting this up Darin!

Ben,
holler at me if you're gonna order and we can split shipping, eh?

No problem PC.

PC/Ben, If you have time, call Ian up there and chat with him for a while.

 

[dartyppyt]

Yesterday, got little ride time on my 09 WR 144 with TC 50 Marzocchi forks. Big difference with the new Rider's Edge valves and new shim stack. He also set me up with a new set of springs. Supposedly, the stock springs were 42's but they tested closer to 45's. He recommended for me to go 42's in these forks. He recommend 5wt oil set @ 325 cc. I am starting @275 cc till I get some good hits in the woods. Once I see where my bottoming is @, I can raise the oil level. My fork sag landed perfect with Dwight's numbers. Bike is settling in lower and not riding like a chopper. Forks before were just too stiff and didn't want to move.

1st fork, took me 4 tries till I got it bled correctly, then got the hang of it and second fork took two attemps. Really glad that the fork bleed procedures were posted.

I made my own aluminum, vise clamp for the inner tube. I had a hard time getting the compression valve cap out of top, my impact gun wouldn't break it loose. I ended up using a long breaker bar. Everything else was easy and went smooth.

Can't wait to dial in the bottoming but think I'll wait till spring. Thanx again Dwight, plus the help I got from Ian!

 

[lankydoug]

Yesterday, got little ride time on my 09 WR 144 with TC 50 Marzocchi forks. Big difference with the new Rider's Edge valves and new shim stack. He also set me up with a new set of springs. Supposedly, the stock springs were 42's but they tested closer to 45's. He recommended for me to go 42's in these forks. He recommend 5wt oil set @ 325 cc. I am starting @275 cc till I get some good hits in the woods. Once I see where my bottoming is @, I can raise the oil level. My fork sag landed perfect with Dwight's numbers. Bike is settling in lower and not riding like a chopper. Forks before were just too stiff and didn't want to move.

1st fork, took me 4 tries till I got it bled correctly, then got the hang of it and second fork took two attemps. Really glad that the fork bleed procedures were posted.

Can't wait to dial in the bottoming but think I'll wait till spring. Thanx again Dwight the help I got from Ian!

I bet the WR250 fork springs are the same way. When I bought my bike the rear was soft but the forks springs seemed close so I just changed the rear spring to a 5.6 and it seems to be balanced out now for me. (I'm about 200lbs)

 

[dartyppyt]

I have learned one thing. Have your existing springs tested, then purchase springs that have been tested.

Also, when you are holding your bike. Put your right foot on your left foot peg. Push down on your peg, then watch your front and rear to see if both compress equally. Before I did the new changes, the rear compressed more compared to forks.

 

[montgob1]

darrin, what do you weigh?

I have learned one thing. Have your existing springs tested, then purchase springs that have been tested.

Also, when you are holding your bike. Put your right foot on your left foot peg. Push down on your peg, then watch your front and rear to see if both compress equally. Before I did the new changes, the rear compressed more compared to forks.[/quote

 

[dartyppyt]

darrin, what do you weigh?

Ben, 195 without gear.

 

[corey43]

Does anyone know what the problem could be when I'm trying to adjust my rebound clicker it will continue to go way past (down). One side will go down to a stop position but the other will continue to go down.

 

[dartyppyt]

Not sure of what forks you have?

But here is couple scenarios:

Your clicker, click it all the way in tight. Lay bike on it's side. Clean out around the valve with spray parts cleaner. Usually, you can see that there is a stop clip. Looks like a piston pin clip. You might be missing one. If you back clickers out to far, too much force, you can pop the clip out. Another one, some forks have a stop washer inserted then peaned around the edge to hold it in. Washer could have fallen out. Make sure your clean real good around the clicker and flush dirt out. The shoot some wd40 up around it.

You should be able to pick up on the issue comparing one fork to the other. Don't back the valve out because ther is a lil ball and spring in there that makes it click.

 

[corey43]

I have the 50mm Shiver, they both do the same on the clickers. I could not see a clip or where one should be.

 

[corey43]

Here is a pic

 

[corey43]

 

[corey43]

 

[dartyppyt]

Okay, I know what is wrong. With your caps off, look on the side and you will see a little allen screw. Here is where it gets tricky. Tighten the allen about 1/8 of turn each time and then try your clicker (screwed back on your fork). Now, if you go to tight, you can break one of the flat head screw driver sides off the clicker. Takes some patience/going easy, but should fix you up. If that doesn't work let me know and I'll tell you how to remove the brass clicker part to order some new ones.

 

[corey43]

Ok thanks.

 

[dartyppyt]

View attachment 12894

Now that I slept on this and only have some info for not being there.

Remove your fork caps and set aside. Pull your springs out. You will see the blue nut that holds the long black fork spring tube. This tube keeps the spring straight as the forks compress. Make sure that the blue nut is not loose on the black tube. If it is, tighten it by hand till it meets the black tube and then tighten it to put just a little pressure on the tube. Don't over tighten it to make the tube flex or to crack it.

Next put your caps on the work bench on a paper towel or rag. You will see a small allen on the side. Remove the allen, then behind the allen is a spring, then a small ball bearing. Don't lose these. Next, with a small screw driver on top of brass clicker. Turn your clicker out so it unthreads and falls out of bottom of cap. it should have an o ring on it. Clean the inside of cap out real good and clean the brass clicker assembly. Inspect the brass clicker for wear. If they are worn, everyone will tell you at the husky dealers, that you have to buy the whole cap. You can get them straight from Marzocchi. If they look good and are clean, put a little grease on the o ring and put some on the clicker shaft. Next pust the clicker back up in the cap and thread it up thru the cap. Bring it up about half way. Then insert your ball bearing, then spring, then allen. don't tighten the allen (Only enough to get it started). Next install your springs, then your cap. Make sure you hold the blue nut so it doesn't turn while tightening your cap. Next start tighten the allen maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn each time. Using a flat head screw driver. move your clicker backwards and forwards. Adjust your allen just so that it puts a little pressure on the spring, that puts pressure on the ball bearing/against the brass clicker. If you tighten the allen too far, you can break one of the screw driver tabs off the clicker. Adjust it just so the clicker clicks easy (You'll know,and it should click like your other ones on your shock or bottom of forks). Look at your manual to see what the number of clicks you have fully out and fully in. If that blue nut was loose against the black tube. It makes the clicker go down too far as you tighten it.

This should fix you up!

 

[corey43]

That fixed it, thanks a lot!

 

[dartyppyt]

You are welcome and glad you are up and running again.

 

[RailwayRog]

Attempted to set the rear sag (100mm rider) on my 2011 TE310, I'm 227lb geared up, well I screwed the collar practically all the way down and I'm at 115mm rider sag. Maybe I got a couple of turns left. I guess a need a heavier rear spring, if I need a heavier rear spring I assume I need heavier front springs as well? I haven't even attempted to try to set the front sag. Whats the best way to figure out the rate for front and rear springs? Or I'm I doing something wrong?
I just want to get the suspension in the ball park and that's it.


13863[/ATTACH]