Suspension Setup recommendations.

[Picklito]

Ended up at 38 free 60 race, so the stock TE springs are a little stiff for my weight. Seems if I went down a rate or two I'd be right on Vinduro's numbers. Cools stuff! Gonna have to measure them to see what rate they are, though, 'cause I'm seeing 4.5 in one place and 4.8 in another.

 

[Rob578]

A question on technique. Are the static sag numbers derived from simply unloading the bike and letting it settle or should that measurement be taken and then bounce up and down on the bike and remeasure, then take the average of the 2 numbers?

 

[ray_ray]

I usually just push my bike down on which ever end I'm working with a few times and let it settle into place on rebound .... The numbers you get from doing this a couple should be very close each time ...

 

[Rob578]

It makes a huge difference in the numbers depending on how you do it

 

[ray_ray]

It makes a huge difference in the numbers depending on how you do it

maybe but each time you compress the forks or rear shock they should settle back into a fairly close position each time ...You might need to average these numbers a couple times after you see the numbers ... ...

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

bounce it...measure, bouce it.... measure, bounce it.... measure (3 times) and take the average.

 

[Picklito]

I've found the numbers to be pretty reliable on a rear shock, but on forks there's so much stiction that you have to be really careful.

 

[javadog]

Im 40mm static and 98 rider sag on my TE449.Within factory specs

 

[Vinduro]

Im 40mm static and 98 rider sag on my TE449.Within factory specs

Not if you are talking about forks or even rear shock IMO. 40mm static is good for forks but 75mm is what the rider sag should be. SO, You need heavier fork springs. You want 30-35mm static on rear and 98-104 on rear.
My personal bike forks are dead on the numbers and rear is 33mm static and 103mm rider sag.

 

[montgob1]

I've found the numbers to be pretty reliable on a rear shock, but on forks there's so much stiction that you have to be really careful.

The 50mm zokes on my CR have little to no stiction when the axle is set properly. I pull up and gently let the bars down, measure, then compress and let up, measure, typicaly less than 1/8", so close i dont bother trying to read the little marks. I had a ding on my axle recently, kept the forks from centering, my measurements where 5/8" to 3/4" off from comp. to reb. Fixed the axle and everythign went back to zero stiction.

 

[lankydoug]

The 50mm zokes on my CR have little to no stiction when the axle is set properly. I pull up and gently let the bars down, measure, then compress and let up, measure, typicaly less than 1/8", so close i dont bother trying to read the little marks. I had a ding on my axle recently, kept the forks from centering, my measurements where 5/8" to 3/4" off from comp. to reb. Fixed the axle and everythign went back to zero stiction.

+1 on getting the axle set right. It makes a big difference in stiction and saves wear and tear on internal fork bushings and tubes. Properly tightening the triple clamps is also important, maybe not as much for the sag settings but over tightening the lower triple clamp will cause lots of extra wear.

 

[Picklito]

Axle definitely helps, but mine are still pretty sticky. So usually I put a little oil on the chrome and that helps get better numbers.

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

Axle definitely helps, but mine are still pretty sticky. So usually I put a little oil on the chrome and that helps get better numbers.

I usually mix some clay, old decomposing and coagulating differential gear oil, potting soil, sand, rotton hamburger, and a a quart of water together and throw it on my forks for a "real world measurement"; since my bike seemes to get covered in some varient of that when I ride...
(kidding)

 

[street2dirt]

Had to take the spring off the shock to find out what the PO had on, it's a 6.4. If vinduro's running a 6.0 i believe @ 180lbs, maybe the 6.4 might be ok for my 210lb arse..... should b back together for measurement by tomorrow night.

 

[street2dirt]

Working on front stuff now. BRP top clamp arrives tomorrow. Since the triple had to come off, it was time to clean & grease the steering head bearings. Had what was left of the white grease from new I think, used Belray waterproof. Will be mounting the BRP and my Scott's this weekend along with changing fork seals. The PO had some stiff springs in the front, so I think I'll try the stock springs that came with the bike. Can't find any markings on them so I won't really know what they are until I check my sag front and rear.............

 

[JasonfromMN]

11 TE 250.

Front travel 300mm

I should have 40mm
I have 33mm static
I have 53mm rider.

Rear travel 296mm

I should have 32mm
I have 57mm static
I have 105mm rider.

According to this my front springs are too stiff and my rear spring is too soft. However with these numbers seems the bike should be pushing corners but it's not. It corners quite good. I have my race sag at 105mm. I'm afraid if I go stiffer on the back spring, it'll set me farther into my forks stroke where the stiffer valving is. I DON'T want the forks stiffer feeling. Also if I install a softer springs in the front Im afraid it could possibly put the forks farther in the stroke also.

Thoughts?

 

[street2dirt]

Finally got around to replacing fork seals(stinkin job takes up too much time, lol) went back together really well and I don't have any extra parts.......... I'm gonna start with 5wt @ 120mm, putting the stock springs in, anyway I think they are, can't find any numbers on them. preload spacer is 25mm, is that the stock length?? Then go from there to get Vinduro's sag #s. Our club's HS is this weekend so it'll get quite a workout riding sweep. Feel free to chime in on the oil wt or air gap if you think I'm off base. It's in Floriduh so mostly flat with sand whoops and palmetto roots. Thanks ...........Oh I forgot, It's an 09 WR300

 

[Picklito]

I usually mix some clay, old decomposing and coagulating differential gear oil, potting soil, sand, rotton hamburger, and a a quart of water together and throw it on my forks for a "real world measurement"; since my bike seemes to get covered in some varient of that when I ride...
(kidding)

I've been meaning to comment on this for a while now... that is hilarious! Now at least I know what that goo is that I wash off my bike each weekend.

 

[pedalpro]

Hello. been enjoying this one as it seems my first action item on my new '10 CR125(144) is to get the suspension sorted. The good part is that the rear end is just right for my weight but the front seems ridiculously stiff. After having a bunch of bikes with too soft of forks I suppose I like too stiff over too soft but I am ready to quit bouncing off everything in the trail!

Sag numbers are 26/55mm respectively which is way less than the 42/75mm we are shooting for. I don't imagine there is anywhere near enough preload to worry abou that. My manual says the KYB fork springs are 8.8 N/mm or .89 kg/mm?! Wow!

So how do I calculate the proper springs so I get the right ones on the first go round? The Racetech site says .46 kg/mm but that seems like a HUGE difference than stock--do these number seem correct? Is the RaceTech calculator relaiable? I have used their springs on my old Japanese bikes in the past with good results. Other suggested spring options?

Also read elsewhere on this forum that the stock oil in the KYB forks isn't right. Apparently it may be more viscous and "sticky" than it should be. Any input here? Could the oil be making a big difference in my sag numbers?

The bike is just broken in with <20 easy hours on it so the fluids should still be in good condition. Sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance for helping a "novice" out! Cheers.

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

11 TE 250.

Front travel 300mm

I should have 40mm
I have 33mm static
I have 53mm rider.

Rear travel 296mm

I should have 32mm
I have 57mm static
I have 105mm rider.

According to this my front springs are too stiff and my rear spring is too soft. However with these numbers seems the bike should be pushing corners but it's not. It corners quite good. I have my race sag at 105mm. I'm afraid if I go stiffer on the back spring, it'll set me farther into my forks stroke where the stiffer valving is. I DON'T want the forks stiffer feeling. Also if I install a softer springs in the front Im afraid it could possibly put the forks farther in the stroke also.

Thoughts?

I would see how close you can get your rear spring preload adjusted to get to 100-101mm race sag- then check the static and hopefully its closer to 32mm.
Then recheck your fork static fork sag and rider sag. your numbers up there will most likely be effected. YOU are right- they work together and should be balanced-
You may be able to take out preload to get your static and race sag fork numbers up a little more- should have ~40mm and ~100.5mm. Yes you will use more of the stroke- but you will be using more of your suspension. This can be dialed in with compression and rebound.

I was happy with my settings as well- then I made the changes based on Vinduro's settings- It was even better- I did add compression to slow the forks a little- When you change spings/settings it effects how the dampening works- if you go far enough- it may require valving.

Try it- reset the rear preload- check- cut new fork spacers as needed- check adjustments front and back- ride it, make dampening adjustments- if you don't like it better you can put it back.

The other thing is make sure your springs are "broken in" before assuming you need lighter springs.