• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Starting the 2010 TE 250 engine teardown

AgentSmith

AgentSmith

Husqvarna
AA Class
Got the engine on the stand...ready to start the teardown.

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Engine went from running great, to running poorly to not running at all in a short period of time during a ride. An inspection revealed the timing gear bearing had failed. I started another thread on that subject to see if it was a known issue...hard to think that something like this was completely random.

You can see the bearing races still present in the gearset, and one of the two inner races next to it. The cages and balls are AWOL...
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I was able to fish out one of the cage assemblies with a magnet.

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So its a complete pull down as the rest of the bearings are still in there presumably. Boy thats a bugger. Good luck with the rebuild.
 
Mines a 2010 TE250 and has had the same issue (Please see other thread). I will be interested to see what else you find. How Many miles has yours done?

Yours will also have the old taper on the end of the Crank?

Patiently waiting for the next instalment. Please make sure the camera batteries are fully charged...
 
Too, too bad on your bike ... Guessing crap bearing as the cause?

Cool stand you have the engine held in place with ..

I'm interested in the threads on the FW shaft bolt ...Left or right handed?

:popcorn:
 
ray_ray said:
Too, too bad on your bike ... Guessing crap bearing as the cause?

Cool stand you have the engine held in place with ..

I'm interested in the threads on the FW shaft bolt ...Left or right handed?

:popcorn:
Click to expand...

At this point Ray Ray, that's the premise I am working on. The engine seems to be quite well built and engineered...although there are some things I would do differently. The bearings in question are marked "Indonesia"...not looking good...however, I hear Indonesian bearings are much better than those from Bangladesh.
 
OK Kids, back at it. I got most of the engine torn down, I am waiting on a flywheel puller this morning to split the cases. Who knew the 26mm X 1.0 puller that I had wouldn't work as they changed the thread pitch in 2010.

After pulling the Ignition Cover, this is what I found.

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The metal fur made a full bridge to the metal cover.

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It'll be interesting to see what mechanism did the grinding of the metal to this fine state.
 
The water pump impeller was loose on the shaft, no damage to impeller or shaft but did some grinding on the back of the pump housing.

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I Pulled the head...started seeing little chunks of metal...this one lodged behind the cam chain guide.

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Piston looked OK, at least from the top.

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Head didn't look damaged, some flaking of carbon from the exhaust valves, but no tragedies yet.

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Cylinder showed a bit more wear than one would expect for the low amount of hours on the engine...

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Piston showed some scoring on the skirts. I'm thinking that all that metal may have slowed the flow of oil at some point.

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Filter was full of Aluminum particles.

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aethelred said:
Mines a 2010 TE250 and has had the same issue (Please see other thread). I will be interested to see what else you find. How Many miles has yours done?

Yours will also have the old taper on the end of the Crank?

Patiently waiting for the next instalment. Please make sure the camera batteries are fully charged...
Click to expand...

What "old taper on the end of the crank"?

My 2010 Te250 spun the flywheel and I replaced the flywheel with a new one from a later production bike.

I did notice the old flywheel was tapered different but did not notice the crank was cut differently...in fact the new flywheel engaged the old crank much better than the old flywheel.

I checked both cranks and they looked and were tapered the same. Are you sure the cranks were changed?

My starter has been working fine since I changed the flywheel.
 
Rightside case cover removed...OK, now we are seeing some missing parts...bearing cage and inner race.

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One missing ball. 19 to go...

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Everything else seems to be in good shape.

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Be very careful with the cam caps.

They strip out very easily....40-45 in/lb max on the 5mm ones.

Also make sure your flywheel is fitting good and torqued properly...lap a little if needed

Other than that the motor is easy to work on.

You don't even have to time the cams with the cam chain...you can just roll it on and time the cams with the gears.

How many miles on the motor? Yes that piston and cylinder look a little scored....both of mine looked better.
 
Found this interesting little curved piece of black plastic. Doesn't seem to fit anywhere, doesn't appear on any parts breakdown, just sitting in there loose. Any ideas?

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Everything else seems to be in great shape. The lower "hooked" casting for the cam chain guide is cracked...so we'll give it a little attention with the TIG once everything is stripped out.

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R_Little said:
Be very careful with the cam caps.

They strip out very easily....40-45 in/lb max on the 5mm ones.

Also make sure your flywheel is fitting good and torqued properly...lap a little if needed

Other than that the motor is easy to work on.

You don't even have to time the cams with the cam chain...you can just roll it on and time the cams with the gears.

How many miles on the motor? Yes that piston and cylinder look a little scored....both of mine looked better.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up!!:thumbsup:

I've got a high end inch pound Torque wrench for the fine work.

These engines are extremely easy to work on...I'm liking the design. Transmission is a carbon copy of the Honda CRF transmission. Might go ahead and do an ISF polish on the gears while I'm in there.

The engine has very few hours...less than 1000 miles.

I'm wondering why the timing gear bearings don't have an oil passage from the shaft? Seems that they are only splash oiled...
 
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