• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Starting the 2010 TE 250 engine teardown

Love this thread...

I believe there are two bearings in the top camchain bearing?

You look like you have not got any marks from the cam chain on the barrel. Is this correct?

Could the bits from the bearings have done the damage to the piston and barrel?

You mentioned the oil filter housing being full of Aluminum? But there is no Ali. in the bearing housing. So what could it be?
 
aethelred said:
Love this thread...

I believe there are two bearings in the top camchain bearing?

You look like you have not got any marks from the cam chain on the barrel. Is this correct?

Could the bits from the bearings have done the damage to the piston and barrel?

You mentioned the oil filter housing being full of Aluminum? But there is no Ali. in the bearing housing. So what could it be?
Click to expand...


The cylinder doesn't show any grinding from the cam chain, the gearset on top was wobbling and cutting into the head and valve cover...that along with the water pump impeller have contributed to the aluminum in the oil.
 
I may have a good spare cylinder...maybe a decent piston and rings too, but I guess you could rechrome that cyl too.

I see your camchain guide thingy is cracked. 1st I've seen of that.

Take a good look at the small hole behind the IGN cover behind the flywheel where the where the "starter system side shaft" fits into. Sometimes they crack there. It's the small hole toward the front of the case.
 
OK...finally got my flywheel puller, game on.

100_4431.jpg


100_4432.jpg


It was a bitch to get the flywheel off...never fails to disappoint though. Always feels like you just cracked the crankshaft in two...

100_4430.jpg
 
What were the threads on the crank? Left or right handed? From the pics, the threads look right-handed ..
 
Thread is right handed.

OTOH, it looks like you have an old style flywheel which is relieved about 6mm from the end. It's good that it was tight as fit there is critical because of the starter system that is all held together by that woodruff key and flywheel morse taper. That flywheel end looks like it was lapped too. Mine wasn't.

The starter pilot hole I recomended you check looks fine too.
 
AS, a little off topic, but good to see you around these parts. Back when my 450R was my main ride, I remember being on your site quite a bit!

I see your riding some on the other red... Nice moves!
 
R_Little said:
Thread is right handed.

OTOH, it looks like you have an old style flywheel which is relieved about 6mm from the end. It's good that it was tight as fit there is critical because of the starter system that is all held together by that woodruff key and flywheel morse taper. That flywheel end looks like it was lapped too. Mine wasn't.

The starter pilot hole I recomended you check looks fine too.
Click to expand...

R_Little:

It was definitely right hand thread. That sucker was really tight. I put an impact on the puller and it did nothing. I had to use a couple of cheater bars to break that bond. Thinking that a new Woodruff key might not be a bad idea on the rebuild.

Blake:

Thanks for the welcome. This place is great...what a forum should be. People willing to share info without all the drama of "other" boards. Glad to be here and I hope I can give back at some point instead of just tapping the braintrust here for info...
 
AgentSmith said:
R_Little:

It was definitely right hand thread. That sucker was really tight. I put an impact on the puller and it did nothing. I had to use a couple of cheater bars to break that bond. Thinking that a new Woodruff key might not be a bad idea on the rebuild.

...
Click to expand...

Good idea on the woodruff key. My flywheel has retaining compund on it and I will need heat to get mine off!

Any chance someone had that flywheel off before? It looks like someone lapped it already and I don't think the factory does that. A lot of bikes shear that key. It's a regular 2 stroke style flywheel and when they tacked on an electric start behind it they push the limit. The old motor starter drive was splined to the crank.
 
What does the connecting rod bearing look like. I had one fail in my 2010 tc 250 with 50 hours on it.
 
AgentSmith said:
Found this interesting little curved piece of black plastic. Doesn't seem to fit anywhere, doesn't appear on any parts breakdown, just sitting in there loose. Any ideas?

100_4408.jpg


100_4409.jpg
Click to expand...

Looks a little like a part of one of the cam chain tensioner halves. I'd look thoes over closely.
 
JasonfromMN said:
Looks a little like a part of one of the cam chain tensioner halves. I'd look thoes over closely.
Click to expand...

I thought that at first, but they are both pristine. This piece has no broken edge...I can still see the sprue marks from the mold that made it. Maybe it holds in the "piston return springs"...
 
It looks as though somebody has lapped the tapered part of the crank and the internal taper of the flywheel together to get a perfect match on the angle. It's usually done with valves and a lapping compound (abrasive paste) to make sure two surfaces mate properly. It usually leaves a dull area where the microgrinding occurs. The taper on the crank has that appearance.
 
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