• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

HVA-Factory WR300 Extra Special!

Now in stock - by popular request are our 40mm fork caps. These replace the assortment of parts that give you the bleed valve assembly and cap into one great part with a super quick fork bleeding pressure relief valve.

As fitted to our own factory flyers... Hope you like them!P1010031.JPG

Andy
 
Good to get back on a bike this week after the winter lay - off and the new Factory HIP...

Looking forward to Telford off road show later this month too!

Andy.
 
First I'm happy to see someone that's keeping these old air cooled husqvarnas alive and well. Your applying the high tech stuff used today in these old gals giving them new life.
Thanks. I like your stuff. I'm still grabbing used parts but well catch up soon I like your upgrades.

The aluminum on the sleeve will give a better heat transfer to the aluminum cylinder. The cylinder will draw the heat away from the cylinder. They use aluminum for heat sinks in electronics. Better cooling = longer life cylinder and piston.

The best quality cylinders I have ever worked with is the cagiva husqvarna. They were a hard industrial chromed cylinder. The pro husqvarna chainsaws use the same hard chrome plating. At 90% of the time when a piston blew in a saw due to fatigue from age and wear we would give the cylinder a quick hone and install a new piston. The hard chrome cylinder would survive.

Eons ago the old timers knew that bigger flywheel mass is more torque. It also means more, smoother, controllable power. More bottom end in bikers terms. The 2t can act like a 4t when we lug it, well close. But there is that fine line between lugging it down low and the point were the hit starts. I like it.

I think personally you should do something special to the finish on your forks or label them to show off your work. Everyone puts there name on the products.
 
The 80k/100k pound trailer trucks use cam operated brake shoes. But the activator cam isn't flat it's offset half round for each shoe. The husky cam is flat. The more the offset cam turns the more the pressure multiplies. The ark of the cam increases.
 
Nickel Silicone Carbide is what it stands for the rings wear off the nickel and the Silicone Carbide is left, tougher than steel
made popular in F1 and is used in high end car engines too
Mahle invented the process
 
Bigbill said:
The chromed cagiva cylinder made my phone stones squeal bad. If it is nikasil it's rock hard.
Click to expand...

It is/was nikasil 100%. It is extremely hard which is why it is used instead of chrome like some late 70s Japanese cylinders were. You aren't supposed to use standard stones on a nikasil coating, there are specific hones for nikasil that will prep the surface without damaging the coating, they look like a bristle brush with abrasive impregnated bristles . You were very lucky you didn't damage it with a regular hone.
 
My hones didn't even touch it because it's so hard. They recently offer stones for nikasil for my hones. I have the silicone carbide ball hones but they hammer the open ports. Can't use those. They offer the stones to bore the nikasil.
 
I have a '83 430 WR I want to upgrade the forks as Andy has. The question is : I have a set of '86 WR 400 forks, which I believe are considered "EVO". Will they work? Do I need '88 damper rods? Andy's quotes below
Had this bike for 31 years & counting!! Thanks for any help!!

"The Forks are from the last of the Evo 1988 bikes. Cut off the Disc Brake mounts and Weld up. Then Machine back to look exactly like the 83 fork!"

"Take a set of Evo sliders and mill off the disc lugs. Alloy weld up what is left of the holes from the disc lugs and machine back to make them disappear. Powder coat white and they look like the 83 / 84 bottoms. Take a set of damper rods from an 88 Enduro bike and fit them together with new seals and bushes. Fit some hva-factory Titanium bottom fork washers........... "
 
The damping rods in my 86 400WR are Husky Products and are pretty much standard damping rods compared to the rod found in 1987 and 1988 forks. I am sure the damping rod in the 1986 fork was non valved or the PO would not have installed the HP rods
 
Do the internals look like the picture on page 3 of this thread? If the answer is yes - use them. The later mods were more to do with the hole (or 4 holes) that let the oil go up between the fork tube and the fork bushes on the later fokr stanchion (chromed bit)...

Hope this helps.

Andy.
 
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