• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Help, no spark, 2007 TE510

When I put the meter in VAC and put the positive lead on the brown/white terminal on the coil and grounded the other side to chasis. I got nothing when I cranked the starter, but kinda wired as soon as I let off the starter it got a very momentary spike and then gone. Don't really know what to think about that, probably just stray voltage, but IDK.. Is there anyway that you could easily remove any and all chance of eliminating the kill circuit from the system, bascially bypassing the clutch switch, kill switch, and I am assuming the blue wire from the CDI to the coil plays some part in the equation. I know if it starts I would have to kill the bike by stalling it, but at least then I would know I have a wring issue somewhere proably an not a component, which honestly the only two compentets that I have not physically changed out are the stator and the start/stop switch, which I verified worked by disconnecting it and hooking a meter to the different leads
 
Put the meter on ohms to check continuity and put one lead on the Brown/white wire and one lead on the chassis, bare spot, no paint.
 
It doesn't sound like the pulser coil is putting out anything. I don't know the exact V specs but when the flywheel passes the timing mark you should see a momentary voltage spike on the red or green wires going to the CDI (signal to fire) and then the CDI should fire a voltage spike on the BR/WH wire that goes to the coil. The best way to verify the stop switch is to measure the ohms to ground on the WH/OR wire at the CDI. Use the sharp end of the DMM probe to poke through the wire jacket to measure, then seal the tiny hole with a drop of crazy glue when you are done. The kill switch grounds that wire so if the wire is grounded right now that means a wiring short in the harness. When testing the system as a whole (not individual components) it is best to clamp the DMM black lead to the frame for a good ground and then use the wire pierce and seal technique I mentioned. That way wire harness issues will show up. I would go measure my pulser coil so we would know what to expect but I got a new hip 3 weeks ago and am not moving very fast. Cam.
 
OlderHuskyRider said:
Put the meter on ohms to check continuity and put one lead on the Brown/white wire and one lead on the chassis, bare spot, no paint.
Click to expand...

I will try this, if I get the meter to zero, would that mean I have a short on the coil power wire?

Ruh Rohhh, I did this test and with one meter lead right on the brown/white terminal at the coil. With the harness hooked up at the cdi, and the other lead grounded to chasis, I get a tone and the meter zeros, that is bad right Old Husky?
 
KXcam22 said:
It doesn't sound like the pulser coil is putting out anything. I don't know the exact V specs but when the flywheel passes the timing mark you should see a momentary voltage spike on the red or green wires going to the CDI (signal to fire) and then the CDI should fire a voltage spike on the BR/WH wire that goes to the coil. The best way to verify the stop switch is to measure the ohms to ground on the WH/OR wire at the CDI. Use the sharp end of the DMM probe to poke through the wire jacket to measure, then seal the tiny hole with a drop of crazy glue when you are done. The kill switch grounds that wire so if the wire is grounded right now that means a wiring short in the harness. When testing the system as a whole (not individual components) it is best to clamp the DMM black lead to the frame for a good ground and then use the wire pierce and seal technique I mentioned. That way wire harness issues will show up. I would go measure my pulser coil so we would know what to expect but I got a new hip 3 weeks ago and am not moving very fast. Cam.
Click to expand...

What I am not sure I understand here is to test the pickup, since it has two wires, should i put the meter leads between the green and the red leads or one or both to ground while engauging the starter?

I tested my white/yellow (which in the manual says white/orange) anyway the one that the black/white from the switch plugs into, at the cdi to ground, with the switch pushed in it completes the path, with it out, it reads open. So that is whats expected correct?
 
J-train said:
I will try this, if I get the meter to zero, would that mean I have a short on the coil power wire?

Ruh Rohhh, I did this test and with one meter lead right on the brown/white terminal at the coil. With the harness hooked up at the cdi, and the other lead grounded to chasis, I get a tone and the meter zeros, that is bad right Old Husky?
Click to expand...


Wait a minute, this can't be wrong, the coil on the secondary coil is mounted directly to chasis ground, and there is supposed to be continuity between the primary and secondary lead of the coil
 
Based on this specifications chart for replacement pick up coils from a site in the UK, If I am reading it correct the resitance reading across this pick up coil should be anywhere from 100-500 Ohms dependeing on exactly what the Husky OEM would read. I am getting a complete open circuit reading the pickup coil when hooking a meter between the red and the green wire.

I really need someone to test their operational bike on those tow wires at the stator connectors for resitance and then for VAC while cranking the starter.
 
J-train said:
Wait a minute, this can't be wrong, the coil on the secondary coil is mounted directly to chasis ground, and there is supposed to be continuity between the primary and secondary lead of the coil
Click to expand...

I am less of an electrician than you, so I have no idea what the statement above means.

I would think the brown/white wire would need to be NOT grounded to function, I'd have to pull the tank on my bike to get at a Brown/white wire.

I DID stick a probe into my spark plug cap and the other probe to the frame and there is NO continuity, which is what I would expect to see. The combustion chamber spark happens when the electricity coming from the coil LEAPS across the spark plug gap. If the electricity going to the coil is getting grounded out on the way to the coil, there will be no spark.

te510-201-jpg.27415
 
KXcam22 said:
Cam.
Click to expand...

J-train said:
I will try this, if I get the meter to zero, would that mean I have a short on the coil power wire?
Ruh Rohhh, I did this test and with one meter lead right on the brown/white terminal at the coil. With the harness hooked up at the cdi, and the other lead grounded to chasis, I get a tone and the meter zeros, that is bad right Old Husky?
Click to expand...

KXcam22, the Brown/white wire (W-Br) in Jtrain's diagram above, shows to be the single power source to the coil. Should that wire show as being grounded to the frame? I would think that wire would show continuity thru to the spark plug cap.
 
Based on your testing so far lets start listing some conclusions so we narrow down to the cause and lick this thing:
1. Sounds like your kill switch circuit is OK.

2. Based on your testing it sounds like the Pulser coil is BAD. For testing the pulser coil (R and G wire) you will normally check for continuity between the two wires. It will be a small to medium ohm value, the 100 to 500 ohm sounds ok. An open circuit or a direct short is a fail. Also neither wire should show an OHM reading to ground. Generally that is all that is required for testing and the running output is seldom tested.

The pulser coil is a hall-effect sensor that detects a reversal in the magnetic field as the flywheel magnet rotates past it. Then it sends a pulse. I doubt that it is repairable unless it is simply a broken wire lead. Worth checking for since the cost to replace it is high.


Testing the BR/WH wire. You show it as being grounded which is bad, but it is possible that the Husky keeps this wire grounded right up until it it used by the CDI, the CDI would switch it from ground to power. It may do this to prevent any stay voltage noise from firing the coil at the wrong time. Try disconnecting the CDI plug and measuring again since that is the only place it would be leqitimately grounded.

In the old days on point ignition the coil was powered continuously with 12VDC and the BR/WH wire was grounded (through the points) to get the coil to fire (collapsing magnetic field). A CDI works in reverse. The coil is not powered until a 12VDC (or up to 200VDC not sure on huskys) pulse is sent on the BR/WH wire from the capacitor inside the CDI box. On a CDI ignition the BR/WH wire should NOT be grounded as its function is to pass a pulse of voltage to the coil. The coil is a step-up pulse transformer that magnifies the pulse from, say 12V, to 50,000 V. Keep in mind that the coil is a transformer and there should be NO continuity from primary to secondary (they are separate coils), Although, when testing an OHM reading will show up since the ground of the primary and the ground of the secondary are tied together at the from when it is bolted down. Then testing the BR/WH wire in place OHM to ground, there will be an OHM reading since you are going through the primary side of the ig-coil to ground. Now I am curious and may have to go check my bike. Cam.
 
I was looking though a TE610 electrical manual and it doesn't even cover the pulser coil, just the ignition coil and nothing else. Then 500 pages of charging system. Not very helpful. Cam.
 
KXcam22 said:
I was looking though a TE610 electrical manual and it doesn't even cover the pulser coil, just the ignition coil and nothing else. Then 500 pages of charging system. Not very helpful. Cam.
Click to expand...
same thing for the TE. does not even tell how to simple ohms chevk it. I actuslly got info on how to test it from youtube. Dome piagio scooter video.
 
KXcam22 said:
Based on your testing so far lets start listing some conclusions so we narrow down to the cause and lick this thing:
1. Sounds like your kill switch circuit is OK.

2. Based on your testing it sounds like the Pulser coil is BAD. For testing the pulser coil (R and G wire) you will normally check for continuity between the two wires. It will be a small to medium ohm value, the 100 to 500 ohm sounds ok. An open circuit or a direct short is a fail. Also neither wire should show an OHM reading to ground. Generally that is all that is required for testing and the running output is seldom tested.

The pulser coil is a hall-effect sensor that detects a reversal in the magnetic field as the flywheel magnet rotates past it. Then it sends a pulse. I doubt that it is repairable unless it is simply a broken wire lead. Worth checking for since the cost to replace it is high.


Testing the BR/WH wire. You show it as being grounded which is bad, but it is possible that the Husky keeps this wire grounded right up until it it used by the CDI, the CDI would switch it from ground to power. It may do this to prevent any stay voltage noise from firing the coil at the wrong time. Try disconnecting the CDI plug and measuring again since that is the only place it would be leqitimately grounded.

In the old days on point ignition the coil was powered continuously with 12VDC and the BR/WH wire was grounded (through the points) to get the coil to fire (collapsing magnetic field). A CDI works in reverse. The coil is not powered until a 12VDC (or up to 200VDC not sure on huskys) pulse is sent on the BR/WH wire from the capacitor inside the CDI box. On a CDI ignition the BR/WH wire should NOT be grounded as its function is to pass a pulse of voltage to the coil. The coil is a step-up pulse transformer that magnifies the pulse from, say 12V, to 50,000 V. Keep in mind that the coil is a transformer and there should be NO continuity from primary to secondary (they are separate coils), Although, when testing an OHM reading will show up since the ground of the primary and the ground of the secondary are tied together at the from when it is bolted down. Then testing the BR/WH wire in place OHM to ground, there will be an OHM reading since you are going through the primary side of the ig-coil to ground. Now I am curious and may have to go check my bike. Cam.
Click to expand...

The one thing I am having trouble understanding, bear with me here, testing the brown/white wire to chasis from the coil terminal shows continuity right. This seems bad but if you think about checking the coil off the bike. You check resitance from the terminal to center mount lugs which are hard gtounded to the chasis by bolts. Acording to the manual if I am reafing it right, you want continuity. Now transfer that back to the bike with the coil hard mounted to chasis and the meter lead on the brown/white wire I would think continuity would be expected. I am going to disconect the cdi and then disconect the terminal at the coil and actually make sure the brown/white wire itself is not shorted to chasis
 
Kx, I re read your last post. You backed up my thoghts on the coil mounting lugs. Another thing I could think to do. remove coil mounting bolts and make sure its not touching chasis and check for short to ground at the brown white wire. Would that tell me anything? *appologize for the typos im on a phone at work. cant log in
 
Since the coil is grounded at one side, with the BR/WH connected and measuring at any point you should see the coil primary resistance. It is a good test to remove the BR/WH wire from the coil and then measure to ground. Then disconnect the CDI and measure again - then there should be no measurement, infinite. If there is an OHM reading then there is a short somewhere in the harness along that wire. Getting closer. Cam.
 
I will check that at lunch maybe. I talked to a company in England that sorces replacement pick up coils, they are not the same as OEM, but they have one they say will fit. They confirmed for me that I should be seeing risitance value around 100 - 200 Ohms between the green and red wire. I think I may by a whole assy though used, just so I can get an OEM pick up coil and have the back up of the whole stator just in case.
 
KXcam22 said:
I am surprised that husky doesn't offer that part separate. It is a separate unit. Cam.
Click to expand...

You actually have to buy the stator, pickup, and flywheel toghether if you go OEM. I found a low hour 09 TXC 510 stator assy on ebay, hopefully it will work, should be here in a couple days
 
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