Help, no spark, 2007 TE510

[J-train]

Put the meter on ohms to check continuity and put one lead on the Brown/white wire and one lead on the chassis, bare spot, no paint.

I will try this, if I get the meter to zero, would that mean I have a short on the coil power wire?

Ruh Rohhh, I did this test and with one meter lead right on the brown/white terminal at the coil. With the harness hooked up at the cdi, and the other lead grounded to chasis, I get a tone and the meter zeros, that is bad right Old Husky?

 

[J-train]

It doesn't sound like the pulser coil is putting out anything. I don't know the exact V specs but when the flywheel passes the timing mark you should see a momentary voltage spike on the red or green wires going to the CDI (signal to fire) and then the CDI should fire a voltage spike on the BR/WH wire that goes to the coil. The best way to verify the stop switch is to measure the ohms to ground on the WH/OR wire at the CDI. Use the sharp end of the DMM probe to poke through the wire jacket to measure, then seal the tiny hole with a drop of crazy glue when you are done. The kill switch grounds that wire so if the wire is grounded right now that means a wiring short in the harness. When testing the system as a whole (not individual components) it is best to clamp the DMM black lead to the frame for a good ground and then use the wire pierce and seal technique I mentioned. That way wire harness issues will show up. I would go measure my pulser coil so we would know what to expect but I got a new hip 3 weeks ago and am not moving very fast. Cam.

What I am not sure I understand here is to test the pickup, since it has two wires, should i put the meter leads between the green and the red leads or one or both to ground while engauging the starter?

I tested my white/yellow (which in the manual says white/orange) anyway the one that the black/white from the switch plugs into, at the cdi to ground, with the switch pushed in it completes the path, with it out, it reads open. So that is whats expected correct?

 

[J-train]

I will try this, if I get the meter to zero, would that mean I have a short on the coil power wire?

Ruh Rohhh, I did this test and with one meter lead right on the brown/white terminal at the coil. With the harness hooked up at the cdi, and the other lead grounded to chasis, I get a tone and the meter zeros, that is bad right Old Husky?

Wait a minute, this can't be wrong, the coil on the secondary coil is mounted directly to chasis ground, and there is supposed to be continuity between the primary and secondary lead of the coil

 

[J-train]

Based on this specifications chart for replacement pick up coils from a site in the UK, If I am reading it correct the resitance reading across this pick up coil should be anywhere from 100-500 Ohms dependeing on exactly what the Husky OEM would read. I am getting a complete open circuit reading the pickup coil when hooking a meter between the red and the green wire.

I really need someone to test their operational bike on those tow wires at the stator connectors for resitance and then for VAC while cranking the starter.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Wait a minute, this can't be wrong, the coil on the secondary coil is mounted directly to chasis ground, and there is supposed to be continuity between the primary and secondary lead of the coil

I am less of an electrician than you, so I have no idea what the statement above means.

I would think the brown/white wire would need to be NOT grounded to function, I'd have to pull the tank on my bike to get at a Brown/white wire.

I DID stick a probe into my spark plug cap and the other probe to the frame and there is NO continuity, which is what I would expect to see. The combustion chamber spark happens when the electricity coming from the coil LEAPS across the spark plug gap. If the electricity going to the coil is getting grounded out on the way to the coil, there will be no spark.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Cam.

I will try this, if I get the meter to zero, would that mean I have a short on the coil power wire?
Ruh Rohhh, I did this test and with one meter lead right on the brown/white terminal at the coil. With the harness hooked up at the cdi, and the other lead grounded to chasis, I get a tone and the meter zeros, that is bad right Old Husky?

KXcam22, the Brown/white wire (W-Br) in Jtrain's diagram above, shows to be the single power source to the coil. Should that wire show as being grounded to the frame? I would think that wire would show continuity thru to the spark plug cap.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Husky OEM

Can you verify that there is only one wire going into the coil, the Brown/white wire, and that wire comes from the CDI

 

[J-train]

Can you verify that there is only one wire going into the coil, the Brown/white wire, and that wire comes from the CDI

Well there is one brown/whit from the cdi.

One blue from swtich to ground of the coil. And another blue from CDI to ground of coil

 

[J-train]

I was looking though a TE610 electrical manual and it doesn't even cover the pulser coil, just the ignition coil and nothing else. Then 500 pages of charging system. Not very helpful. Cam.

same thing for the TE. does not even tell how to simple ohms chevk it. I actuslly got info on how to test it from youtube. Dome piagio scooter video.

 

[J-train]

Based on your testing so far lets start listing some conclusions so we narrow down to the cause and lick this thing:
1. Sounds like your kill switch circuit is OK.

2. Based on your testing it sounds like the Pulser coil is BAD. For testing the pulser coil (R and G wire) you will normally check for continuity between the two wires. It will be a small to medium ohm value, the 100 to 500 ohm sounds ok. An open circuit or a direct short is a fail. Also neither wire should show an OHM reading to ground. Generally that is all that is required for testing and the running output is seldom tested.

The pulser coil is a hall-effect sensor that detects a reversal in the magnetic field as the flywheel magnet rotates past it. Then it sends a pulse. I doubt that it is repairable unless it is simply a broken wire lead. Worth checking for since the cost to replace it is high.


Testing the BR/WH wire. You show it as being grounded which is bad, but it is possible that the Husky keeps this wire grounded right up until it it used by the CDI, the CDI would switch it from ground to power. It may do this to prevent any stay voltage noise from firing the coil at the wrong time. Try disconnecting the CDI plug and measuring again since that is the only place it would be leqitimately grounded.

In the old days on point ignition the coil was powered continuously with 12VDC and the BR/WH wire was grounded (through the points) to get the coil to fire (collapsing magnetic field). A CDI works in reverse. The coil is not powered until a 12VDC (or up to 200VDC not sure on huskys) pulse is sent on the BR/WH wire from the capacitor inside the CDI box. On a CDI ignition the BR/WH wire should NOT be grounded as its function is to pass a pulse of voltage to the coil. The coil is a step-up pulse transformer that magnifies the pulse from, say 12V, to 50,000 V. Keep in mind that the coil is a transformer and there should be NO continuity from primary to secondary (they are separate coils), Although, when testing an OHM reading will show up since the ground of the primary and the ground of the secondary are tied together at the from when it is bolted down. Then testing the BR/WH wire in place OHM to ground, there will be an OHM reading since you are going through the primary side of the ig-coil to ground. Now I am curious and may have to go check my bike. Cam.

The one thing I am having trouble understanding, bear with me here, testing the brown/white wire to chasis from the coil terminal shows continuity right. This seems bad but if you think about checking the coil off the bike. You check resitance from the terminal to center mount lugs which are hard gtounded to the chasis by bolts. Acording to the manual if I am reafing it right, you want continuity. Now transfer that back to the bike with the coil hard mounted to chasis and the meter lead on the brown/white wire I would think continuity would be expected. I am going to disconect the cdi and then disconect the terminal at the coil and actually make sure the brown/white wire itself is not shorted to chasis

 

[J-train]

Kx, I re read your last post. You backed up my thoghts on the coil mounting lugs. Another thing I could think to do. remove coil mounting bolts and make sure its not touching chasis and check for short to ground at the brown white wire. Would that tell me anything? *appologize for the typos im on a phone at work. cant log in

 

[J-train]

I will check that at lunch maybe. I talked to a company in England that sorces replacement pick up coils, they are not the same as OEM, but they have one they say will fit. They confirmed for me that I should be seeing risitance value around 100 - 200 Ohms between the green and red wire. I think I may by a whole assy though used, just so I can get an OEM pick up coil and have the back up of the whole stator just in case.

 

[J-train]

I am surprised that husky doesn't offer that part separate. It is a separate unit. Cam.

You actually have to buy the stator, pickup, and flywheel toghether if you go OEM. I found a low hour 09 TXC 510 stator assy on ebay, hopefully it will work, should be here in a couple days

 

[J-train]

Thanks for all the help so far guys. I just recieved my used stator/pick up coil in the mail today. The first thing I did was take a multimeter to the pick up coil and check it for resitance, sure enough 100 ohms. My old one was reading open. I will install everything tonight and I am hoping she fires right up. Wow, that has to be a rare failure. There really is not much to that sensor.

 

[OlderHuskyRider]

Looking forward to resolution, it would be a first that I have read of.

 

[J-train]

IT LIVES****************************************!!! Swapped them out and it fired right up! Thanks again guys. Make it be known, if all the manual values check out, and your wiring all pins good check the green and the red wire out of your stator for 100 ohms static resitance. Thats not in the book anywhere.

 

[Powellyte450]

I had all my hopes in this thread but I ran empty again.
2008 TE 450, No Spark.
I am too am struggling with the Husky Service Manual, Wire color completely different, OHM's specs all over the place, very little Information all round tbh from it.

Cant see any signs of wear or rubbing on the wires at all bike is very lightly used most connection's seem like new...
Replaced Coil due to manual giving incorrect OHM's specifications but the brand new one tested near on exactly the same as old one...
New Plug...
New Battery...

Here's were I lost hope, my stator has 5 wires 3 yellow 1 red 1 green.
I OHM's tested the red and green together came out at around 100.
All across the Yellow wires 0.7.
According to the sketchy manual though this is all correct.

So I guess the only thing I have left is the ECU ? sigh not cheap.

Just a quick question I cant quite fully follow how your checking for power or resistance at the primary coil wires not the coil but the + and - wires coming from the ECU from what I think I understand the ECU delivers the power and the timing to the coil so if I turn the bike over and check for some volts at either end I suppose I should be seeing something right ?

I'm sure this is the last headache you needed reminding of but Id be really grateful for any idea's at this point.