• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

2012 TE 250 Race Map

I was just looking through that parts pdf that glanston posted and noticed this clutch lever. I bought this for my bike cause I kept bending mine on rocks when I dumped it.. The problem with this lever is when the end of the hydraulic line goes into the little hole on the lever, it makes a clicking sound. It doesn't slide nicely in and feels like it's snapping. Anyway, just an FYI for people looking into these. The problem may be fixed by grinding down the inner wall of the hole. It's now just a backup lever for me. They do look pretty though :)

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George has been having some levers made for quite some time, local in Santa Ana. About $60. Red, Black maybe Silver and with Husky crown and Uptite lasered on. ARC it is. About a block away from his shop.
 
Has anyplace put together the ECU, injector, sensor bypass and blue button as a kit? Or do they all have to be purchased separately?
 
Injector/ECU is a kit ($380). O2 sensor bypass is a part consisting of plug for exhaust and resistor (shouldn't be much...$20) . Blue Button is a $25 part approx. You could call a dealer like Motoxotica (Dan) or Hall's and order them all. My bike came with the blue button. You should have a less restrictive air filter cage and need the throttle stop removed as well as the catalytic item in the exhaust. You will have to have it on iBeat to get it running after all this.....set TPS and CO 1,2.3 and adjust idle. Seems it will idle a bit higher...2000 after all is done.

Check out Special Parts catalog 2012

http://www.halls-cycles.com/default.asp?page=catalogs

You should find all three in this and the parts numbers....MY = Model Year...make sure you note the 250 #....... as there are similar parts for the 310
 
Thanks, I had those prices, I was hoping a kit woul be a bit cheaper. So after $400+ you get to pay a dealer to adjust it all. I'm wondering if it's all worth it. Once you get the motor cranking with all the stock set up it flies. It's only off an idle that is giving me problems.
 
I have the injector ecu combo with the blue button and my dealer told me that the race map 1 and 2 no longer apply with the new ecu. I tried switching to race map 2 and can't seem to tell any difference.
 
I have the injector ecu combo with the blue button and my dealer told me that the race map 1 and 2 no longer apply with the new ecu. I tried switching to race map 2 and can't seem to tell any difference.

You still get the 2 Maps . Map 2 is a bit "softer" . I use it if very wet / slippery .
 
Thanks, I had those prices, I was hoping a kit woul be a bit cheaper. So after $400+ you get to pay a dealer to adjust it all. I'm wondering if it's all worth it. Once you get the motor cranking with all the stock set up it flies. It's only off an idle that is giving me problems.

Its worth it !
 
Squirt some Kroil on the fuel rail screws and let them soak for a while and save yourself some trouble. While they are soaking, go to Lowes and get some hex head cap screws to replace them.
 
Trying to remember...I think they were M6X1.0. You can always do what I did and after you get one of the old ones out, take it to Lowe's in your pocket and find a cap screw that matches.
 

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Have you replaced the air filter cage and removed the catalytic insert in the exhaust yet?

Cage fixed and throttle stop removed when I got the bike, I change the 40 tooth sprocket to a 53 . I'll remove the converter when I install the rest of the stuff.
 
Cage fixed and throttle stop removed when I got the bike, I change the 40 tooth sprocket to a 53 . I'll remove the converter when I install the rest of the stuff.

Do you plan to change out the spring on the rear shock? If so, that is a perfect time to change out the injector and ECU since the tail section and the shock are out of the way. You will need to remove the tank to swap out the ECU. Might as well replace the crappy plastic fuel elbow with an an aluminum one from ZipTy while you have the tank off. While the tank is off it is also a good time to install radiator braces. I went with the Enduro Engineering ones. They are relatively simple to install with no need to remove the radiators. If you have questions about any of these options, let me know and I will be glad to share what I have learned.
 
Do you plan to change out the spring on the rear shock? If so, that is a perfect time to change out the injector and ECU since the tail section and the shock are out of the way. You will need to remove the tank to swap out the ECU. Might as well replace the crappy plastic fuel elbow with an an aluminum one from ZipTy while you have the tank off. While the tank is off it is also a good time to install radiator braces. I went with the Enduro Engineering ones. They are relatively simple to install with no need to remove the radiators. If you have questions about any of these options, let me know and I will be glad to share what I have learned.


Elbow is already on the way, suspension seems fine to me, but I'm old and slow LOL
 
I couldn't find quite the route sheet holder I liked so I made one. I'm thinking of using a RAM mount for it.

i-PkPk933-L.jpg
 
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