• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc 2011 WR150 OWNER Keeping Mikuni 38mm Carb

John,

Yours has the older TMX. The two demand completely different jetting for the main because of design differences.
 
No problem thanks guys. I was just thinking if my bike runs as good as it does now how much better could it be. I just have a hard time just leaving stuff alone LOL !My TT Porshe has different impellers on the turbos, my F150 was dyno tuned, etc etc..
 
typeone said:
john01, i've been testing the following RM needles with my OEM '09 144, others can chime in with more direction but:

6CHY 16-62 (seems to be most recommended starting point)
6CHY 17-62 (half clip leaner)

on float level, mine was too high as well, pissed gas everywhere just taking it off the stand. i lowered it a tad but i'm curious to hear if you guys come up with a measurement that's easy to mimic. i found an old post that had it 1 - 2mm below the bowl edge so that's what i'm running right now, definitely helped but may not be optimal yet.

just to add context, my jetting is as follows for ~300 - 1000ft ASL: 470M, 32.5P, 17-62 3rd, 5.0 slide, AS 1.5 TO (PowerNow plate). thing tractors awesome, rips up top but i still have a slight 'bog' when i shift on the pipe in open areas. spooges like mad too.
Click to expand...

Mine is 6chy16-62, 2nd clip, 460 main, 35 pilot, stock/silver spring/ 40:1. Mine has been running perfect but last time went riding, it seemed to spooge more. Found out that my gear oil was low. Looks like crank seal is bad.
 
How exactly does one measure the float height on the TMXX?

I took mine off last night and measured where it drains gas. It will tip to the left 38 degrees, to the right 50, up hill about 38, and it did lot drip at all in the down hill direction.
 
On the TMXX it is the top of the pyramid on float to the base of carb. Don't forget, when you adjust it, it should just hit the little preload needle, inside the needle. If you compress that little preload needle till it touches the needle, your measurement will be wrong. Helps to hold the carb at a slight angle. Think it is 6-7 mm height. mine might be more of a 7 or 8 mm from the base?
 

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dartyppyt said:
On the TMXX it is the top of the pyramid on float to the base of carb. Don't forget, when you adjust it, it should just hit the little preload needle, inside the needle. If you compress that little preload needle till it touches the needle, your measurement will be wrong. Helps to hold the carb at a slight angle. Think it is 6-7 mm height. mine might be more of a 7 or 8 mm from the base?
Click to expand...

Great pic. I had to go from 6 to 7.5ish to get the TMXX on my CR 150 to quit spewing gas. Seems to be fine now.
 
Also, here is a little pointer I do. Go purchase a little String Level at your local home improvement store. I think they are sometimes around $2.

With your bike sitting on the stand (On level ground), with carb mounted, but not clamped tight, top of carb off and with slide out. Place this level on top of your carb to level it from side to side. Then tighten your clamps. That way you know it is level. Try it once without the level and see how far you are off. I do it on all carbs so the float never hangs up or is leaning too far in a turn.
 

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'09 WR125...Happy with the 38 Mik., but only after some trials and tribulations that I think were still not carb related...after changing out to the CR ignition I think either carb will work. Didn't need two different carbs and sold the Keihin for cash for other goodies and the Mik is working...
470 main, 32.5 pilot, RM needle, 3rd down, #5 slide, BR9EG plug, Air Screw out 1 1/2 turns...seems to be back to 125 ripping form!

A lot of thanks to a lot of guys/gals on the forum for pitching in their 3 cents and more to get us back on track...

 
dartyppyt said:
On the TMXX it is the top of the pyramid on float to the base of carb. Don't forget, when you adjust it, it should just hit the little preload needle, inside the needle. If you compress that little preload needle till it touches the needle, your measurement will be wrong. Helps to hold the carb at a slight angle. Think it is 6-7 mm height. mine might be more of a 7 or 8 mm from the base?
Click to expand...

Good diagram. I don't think you even need to measure it. Just adjust so that the floats are parallel to the float bowl mating surface exactly when the valve closes and they should be good.
 
dartyppyt said:
Also, here is a little pointer I do. Go purchase a little String Level at your local home improvement store. I think they are sometimes around $2.

With your bike sitting on the stand (On level ground), with carb mounted, but not clamped tight, top of carb off and with slide out. Place this level on top of your carb to level it from side to side. Then tighten your clamps. That way you know it is level. Try it once without the level and see how far you are off. I do it on all carbs so the float never hangs up or is leaning too far in a turn.
Click to expand...
That's a great tip! Thanks. I could never figure out why they don't notch the intake boots like other bikes.
 
When I set my float at parallel to the carb float bowl sealing edge, the TMXX is puking gas like a stuck pig. I am measuring at a slight angle and setting to first contact with the needle valve and before their is any compression of the inner spring. :excuseme: I have my current setting with the floats about 2mm from parallel and it is still loosing gas under hard breaking and fairly shallow leaning. I am going to do some work with it this weekend to find the point where it actually starves for gas under prolonged WFO runs. I will let you know where that point is. 480 main, 27.5 pilot, rm needle in the middle, air speed at 1.5 turns out, #5 slide.
 
wallybean said:
When I set my float at parallel to the carb float bowl sealing edge, the TMXX is puking gas like a stuck pig. I am measuring at a slight angle and setting to first contact with the needle valve and before their is any compression of the inner spring. :excuseme: I have my current setting with the floats about 2mm from parallel and it is still loosing gas under hard breaking and fairly shallow leaning. I am going to do some work with it this weekend to find the point where it actually starves for gas under prolonged WFO runs. I will let you know where that point is. 480 main, 27.5 pilot, rm needle in the middle, air speed at 1.5 turns out, #5 slide.
Click to expand...

I set mine by blowing in the inlet fuel line while raising the float. I set it so that the float was a little below level when the needle shut off the fuel. It worked out so that it peed fuel at about the same time the left peg touched the ground. I tried going a little lower and it ran out of gas any time after 3 or 4 seconds at wide open in 4th or 5th. I know this is not the repair manual way of doing it but I figured it will get better or worse so keep at until it's at the sweet spot.
 
Ju
wallybean said:
When I set my float at parallel to the carb float bowl sealing edge, the TMXX is puking gas like a stuck pig. I am measuring at a slight angle and setting to first contact with the needle valve and before their is any compression of the inner spring. :excuseme: I have my current setting with the floats about 2mm from parallel and it is still loosing gas under hard breaking and fairly shallow leaning. I am going to do some work with it this weekend to find the point where it actually starves for gas under prolonged WFO runs. I will let you know where that point is. 480 main, 27.5 pilot, rm needle in the middle, air speed at 1.5 turns out, #5 slide.
Click to expand...

Just watch smoking a cigar when you do I and put your bifocals on so you get us an accurate measurement.
 
dartyppyt said:
Also, here is a little pointer I do. Go purchase a little String Level at your local home improvement store. I think they are sometimes around $2.

With your bike sitting on the stand (On level ground), with carb mounted, but not clamped tight, top of carb off and with slide out. Place this level on top of your carb to level it from side to side. Then tighten your clamps. That way you know it is level. Try it once without the level and see how far you are off. I do it on all carbs so the float never hangs up or is leaning too far in a turn.
Click to expand...

Excellent tip dartyppyt, wonder if husky in future would put a notch in reeds intake rubber to correct this?
 
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