• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1983 510 4T

I reread your posts. so a couple more things:

The roller rockers are the same as the 410 (and probably the 610) if you want to replace them. The 410 bearing are the same dimension but have more rollers, and are available over the counter at any husky dealer for now anyway.

I have destroyed 1 piston (dirt track on a 4 hour old piston + nip up on run in), and came close again ( first run in on 0.08mm , got hot and tight) with a rik smit wiseco. They are good pistons but the recommended 3 (0.075mm)thou clearance is not enough for a hot running motor. 4 thou (0.1mm) is good.

Paul Rooney also confirmed this. you have been warned!
 
510comingtogether_zpsb53e242c.jpg~c200

Getting more of the 510 bits ready..... really just waiting on the engine to come back..really happy with the way the wheels came out.. a question tho.. I will use a CR rear guard...so it will look like a TX.. the TX has four rubber "P" clips holding the guard to the rear loop.... I can't see any resaon to bolt the guard to the bottom/back of the seat...It would only make it more difficult to take the seat off if you had to undo the rubbers as well... Is that how the TX rear guard is mounted...??or..is it bolted to the seat as well , like a CR..seems like overkill if you have rubbers holding the guard in place..
 
Rubbers do not hold the guard securely in place. They just hold it against the frame loop. You need to bolt to the seat for the guard to be properly secure and not flop around.
 
I've bolted my seat with 4 bolts/grommets & not to the seat & it's been fine for years, I did the same
on my 2 83 xc's.
I used a Rick Smit wiseco on my 510 & haven't had a problem & it's been 2-3 years.

Husky John
 
I had a 93mm rik smit wiseco piston for 3 -4 years racing, and wore it out (a twin ring piston.)actually the piston was ok ish and the bore was worn. possible -dusting
I then used another barrel, with a single ring 92mm piston, which nipped early on, cleaned up ok, then as said before seized at the 4 hour mark. It was long track giving the motor a pretty hard work out, way harder than mx use. I had done this (long track) on the 1st (93mm) piston too with no troubles a few times. The bridge supporting the gudgeon pin had expanded pushing the piston sidewall into the bore (4 point seize)

The next a 92.5mm same story heat cycled a few times then within 1 lap of easy riding the motor got hot and tight , wouldn't idle , so motor shut down ,then dismantled and checked(again)!! , was ok, so honed with 1 thou more clearance. Same bottom end, same head, reed valve changed, fuel flow checked etc etc.
I have now also drilled the piston at these 4 points to give extra lubrication. this piston has now done one race meeting + 1 other (hard)riding session with no problems so far.
this was with mineral oil break in and running on synthetic oil after.

As there is not a lot of choice in o/s pistons , rik is providing a good service.- but wisecos do(did?) have a reputation....

my rear guard has never been bolted to the seat, only to the frame loop, and the seat bolts clamp the guard too when the seat is bolted on the frame.

I am playing with a 510 LC with no rear loop, so the guard must bolt to the seat, its a bit floppy but the seat bolts stop this when the seat mount /and through the guard combo is fixed to the frame



Anyway back to you Watto..
 
Yeh, I have a 1981 430 CR, that I have had since new...as many know the rear guard only has the seat base to support it.. it doesn't / hasn't flopped around at all... it's been in place for 33 years so..far..:applause:..I think I will go with the rubbers only....I had thought about cutting the rear loop off at one stage... but for originality decided to keep it... even tho my bike is only a TE.. I don't/won't be using it for any enduro work..so the rear guard is a CR/TX style.... I will be using Motorex in the engine... Full synth...will have to watch the heat cycle during running in.. Thaks for your advice guys..much appreciated..
 
Hello guys.. need some more help.. my bike did not have a rear brake tourque arm in the box of bits.. anyone able tell me the centre to centre length of the alloy arm for a 1983 TE..??
 
know a bloke with a stocker, will see if I can get the details from him. I would suspect they were the same as all WR's? or did they change the swing arm length?
 
I found today that Tritrophy on ebay has a NOS WR stay/arm for sale..quoted as being 275mm centre to centre..
 
I could do that... just wanted a starting point.. I have had the brake shoes re-bonded to suit the size of the drum... great job by a brakece company over here..you take the backing plate and the shoes and the wheel to them and they re-bond the shoes perfectly to match the size of the drum... front wheel done also.. cost $30 for both..:applause:
 
A company called "Brake Bonders".. In Malaga..an industrial area about 40 mins north of Perth..they also have a divsion in Brisbane, Sydney and Melb..
 
510engine_zps49dedd35.jpg
Got this back on Friday.. so new, big end bearing.. piston and bore / guides , valves, rocker shafts and bushes, rollers .... gaskets...got a Rik Smits Wiseco piston..and the con rod small end didn't fit in the boss of the piston.. had to grind the small end of the crank to make it fit..:confused:..had a suggestion from the engine builder to run the exhaust and inlet valve clearences at the same tolerance.. so which ever it is..haven't looked yet.. either 6 thou or 8 thou.. but..both the same rather than 4 and 6 or 6 and 8 which ever one it is... Any ideas..??
 
It is just a plastic spray can paint lid.. just to stop me jagging my arm on the manual valve lifting lever attached to the rocker box.. ferk it is heavy....:(
 
it is a pre 90 4 banger...., btw the breather and the rocker arm it looks like you have radiator hose fittings... like the head was water cooled... had me wondering... anyway...on with the show!
 
Looking good.
Am interested to here about how it all goes once you get it all up and running as I imagine a lot of what you have done is relevant to mine as well.
I am guessing the breather on the valve cover is for crankcase ventilation, is that correct? As I haven't noticed a crankcase breather anywhere else. Mine connects to a plastic assembly under the head stem.
 
Yes, you are correct, it is the rockerbox vent.. the guy who owned it before me had a metal breather box made.. same shape and dimensions as the plastic version...I also have a NOS plastic one... assembly will have to wait a while..too busy racing..:D
 
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