• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1983 510 4T

Back on track with putting the 4T together.. I had a puzzling moment last night.. bolted the rear brake pedal to the frame... hooked up the brake rod to the rear brake lever on the baking plate.. the rod actually rubs on the underside of the swingarm..as that how it was..?..seems like the rod needs to be bent away from the swingarm..tho I imagine the first time you actuate the rear brake ..the rod will straighten out.. Any one..??
 
floating brake plate ?)actually even if its not) is the stay(torque) arm for it the right length ? pending that can the brake actuator arm be moved around a tooth on the spline if u change the length of the torque arm
 
I bought a stainless torque arm from the UK.. so I am hoping it is the correct length.. the actuating arm is not on splines.. just the slot as per most HVA ...with the exception of Lelue hubs..
 
I have seen genuine second hand torque arms on eBay with 3 holes in one end.. what are they to suit..??
 
510December2014_zpsa0029989.jpg
Getting there.. slowly..
 
And whilst my bike is an '83.. i don't like the yellow seat.. so.. hade a blue / white cover done.. just also waiting on my alloy tank to come back from the painter..
 
the rod just rubs on the arm, put a little plastic fuel line over it!

looking good!

ive rounded the nut on the barrel oil filter:mad: so will need to go major surgery!

I like the yellow seats!
 
there is a "thread man" here who is fantastic with all these crappy little issues, he will sort it ok!
 
Hello All.. new problem.. I have/had a 1981/2 alloy tank that was blue.. I wanted to put this tank on my 4T.. so i relocated the petrol tap boss.. and had the dents taken out and all painted white.. looks really nice...then.. i go to mount it all good.. then I try to fit the seat.. the mounting tabs in the seat are about 15mm too short..I can't push the seat far enough forward without the seat pushing the tank forward.. then the bolt for the front of the tank won't line up..?? gggrrrr.. any ideas anyone.. are the 81/2 tanks physically the same as a 1983 tank ( other than the location of the tap)..
 
I have one bike where I must push the seat to fit the screws seat in the frame holes.
I think there's some different seats lenght between 80, 81, 82 or 83.
Except for capacity and tap location, lenght tank must be the same.
 
More puzzles.. I bought a set of DC plastic sidecovers that DC say are for a 1983 510 TX.. I tried to fit them the other day..I dont think they have enought clerance for the exhaust.. and they don't appear to have enough "valance " to go over the pipes.. also looks like the front mounting is differnt.. I believe DC sent me a set of 2T sidecovers.. anyone have a comparison pic between the 83 and the 84 4T sidecovers..??
 
But wait..there is more.. what spark plug are you 4T guys running..?? the HVA Brochure says NGK D8EA... maybe a better grade of plug available now..
 
Got the tank / seat relationship all sorted.. had to shorten the front of the seat by about 30mm.. now I have an (asthetic) issue with the rear guard.. whist my bike is a TE..I wanted it to look like a TX .. so using the CR rear guard ..the rear frame loop is way too high.. I know that a TX has the CR rear guard.. and the guard is held on with 4 P clips..as well as bolted to the rear underside of the seat.. So I bolted the guard to the seat..fitted it all up.. and I can fit my fingers underneath the rear loop and between the guard.. I couldn't / wouldn't put the P clips on..I am thinking about cutting off the rear frame loop as a TC / CR was..the frame is not bent.. well not that I can tell..as that section of the frame has the gusetts along the side.. ans the gusetts are not out of shape.. I know in the TE pic loaded above that the P clips are not used.. but also the gap between the frame and the guard isn't and bad as mine.. Any thoughts..?/ should I cut off the rear frame loop..??
 
looks just a little too high to me.. hasn't gone over has it? the loop looks higher than the seat c/w the other bike picced above
 
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