• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

1983 510 4T

More questions..... anyone know if there is a cross-over 2T to 4T for the big end bearing..?? I have the crank apart... the rod is OK, as is the pin.. but wondering if I should put a bearing in it now that I have it this far apart.. Anyone know if a 2T bearing fits..?/ 500 CR..??
 
Yes, I couldn't agree more ruwfo..but my question was ..does anyone know of a cross over from/to a 2T bearing..??
 
Yes. Michel, and that would be good..but Hva...do not show the individual parts of the conrod assembly with individual part numbers... they did many years ago..but not anymore.. I would have thoght that the "original" concept of the 4T used a 500 CR bottom end....??.. anyway , will have to measure the crankpin and bearing cage width .. go from there. Andy at Hva in UK may be able to help..:applause:
 
so..measurements are.. bearing cage width 15.70mm, crank pin diam 28mm and con rod big end i.d. 35mm...... any one able to check a 2T big end bearing for a comparison..??
 
Not any more...they are shown in the exploded diagram.. and have a number ( eg..#6)..but aren't shown as an individual part..only a component of an assembly.. i.e. conrod assembly..
 
Anyway...looks like Andy at HVA in the UK has a bearing that matches... great info.. now I can replace the big end bearing without needing a crank pin / con rod also..
 
watto450 said:
Not any more...they are shown in the exploded diagram.. and have a number ( eg..#6)..but aren't shown as an individual part..only a component of an assembly.. i.e. conrod assembly..
Click to expand...
I've looked at 83 2str and 4 str parts lists for the crankshaft bearings.
2str left : 73 82 205 25
2str right: 73 83 205 40

4str left: 73 82 205 28
4str right: 73 83 205 40
 
Maybe my english isn't so good.. but I am talking about the big end bearing..not the crankshaft bearings.. I need the bearing that goes in the large end of the connecting rod...
 
So..this where I am at with the engine......92mm Wiseco piston from Rik Smits.. Killblewhite valves and guides, new rocker shafts , rocker arm cam rollers and rocker shaft bushes, cam chain...cylinder being bored.. head being fettled... I note that the screen filter in the side of the cylinder is very dirty with garnet after the cylinder was (balsted) cleaned up.... is that screen supposed to be able to be removed..??.. Mine is stuck pretty good.... do I just wash it out..?? I note it is listed as a spare part, so I would think it shold be able to be removed..
 
Next question.. mine has a K&N air filter....can't find a listing for it on K&N anymore..... any suggestions..?? I am a bit gun shy about a foam filter..even with a screen...:confused:
 
Nothing wrong with using a foam filter with a backfire screen fitted. You can also remove the screen and use filter oil that is not flammable. They are available now days. Easiest is to keep the screen in my opinion.

The oil filter you describe can be removed and cleaned and/or replaced. How did it get garnet on it? Garnet should not be used anywhere near an engine...asking for trouble. I use paint stripper or else soda blasting. You have a major clean up job ahead if you me thinks.
 
I extinguished a filter fire on a BSA Goldstar at a classic scramble, it was it's first meeting after a full restoration, to say the owner was panicking was an understatement. I think he took notice of the regulations after that and bought a fire extinguisher!
 
Many bikes have caught fire at race meets. Most are fuel fires. Good maintenance and an understanding of the risks enables most people to build and maintain their bikes so it doesn't catch fire. Dusting an engine with a poor filter is another risk. Not too many dirt bikes run unoiled paper filters ... to my knowledge anyway. Don't know much about K&N filters but I assume off road buggies etc run them?
 
the maico 250/490 81 foam air filter fits well and is cheap and readily available. I have always used them. I bought a air filter from HVA recently to compare, and its a maico filter!! HA !
I have had a singed air filter, but itll only backfire if you hold the throttle open ( and it wont start anyway!) still I have a screen in there too for safety.
I don't trust the paper filter as cleaning is suspect but each unto their own.
If you are having trouble getting the screen filter out it may be because the cam chain has rubbed the ally deforming the chamber for the screen. I have had to dremel / flap wheel a cylinder oil holder back to shape, to allow the filter to slip in and out and open the area for more surface area =oil flow.
Taliesin racing has rod kits at reasonable prices
 
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