I placed an order for a piston and oring. It was asking for a paypal password after the order was placed. The website gave me a confirmation but I want to make sure it wen through. Thanks again for another great product. I cant wait to try out the new piston and o-ring!
Now THAT is SERVICE ! VERY cool of you to do that! I'm likely going to a Rekluse and a left hand rear brake. Otherwise, I'd be all over this.
I've been testing a "Pre-Production" version of the 7602 Racing piston and it's been working great. This really seems to fix the problem. Plus side is that it also seems to have a very nice feel to it. Clutch pull may be lighter, but for sure it's smoother. Really nice plus to the fix.
Colo, I'll just give you a shout today because I also wanted to pick up one of the older oil filter covers in black if they are still available.
I guess it wouldn't be a bad idea to install one of these on a new bike as a preventive measure? Do the '09's have the same issue?
How easy is it to change this thing out? I assume you have to drain the fluid and yank the slave cylinder, but does the piston just pop out? Also, how hard is re-filling and bleeding? Thanks for any help.
It's pretty easy. Pull the slave cylinder. There is a snap ring holding the piston in that needs to be removed. After you do that, pull out the stock piston, and replace it with ours. Re insert the snap ring. Face the slave cylinder with the piston pointing down and give it a few light taps with a screwdriver handle to get the air out of the pocket that holds the spring in the piston. (this will be more clear when you take it apart) Bolt the slave cyclinder back on the engine. Bleed the system. I prefer to use a syringe and back bleed it, its faster and works better. Don't pull the clutch lever when you have the slave cylinder off the bike. You can break the groove that the snap ring sets in. That's about it, should take 20-30 minutes. The longest part is the bleeding.
All excellent advice! About the oil: If you're a "peace of mind" kind of person then you'll maybe want to use Magura's own oil, called "Blood". If your dirtbike dealer isn't nearby then the local mountain bike shop may have some. But it's expensive - or mebbe you need to top up in an emergency. I've been using 5 weight mineral fork oil for a couple of months now with no problems (it certainly works smoother than the slop that was in there when I got the bike). I'll wager that automatic transmission fluid would do too (although I haven't tried it). Even mineral oil like sewing machine oil (I think Colo moto has mentioned the stuff) or 3-in-1 (the kind your dad has in a little metal can with a spout to oil door hinges and his lawn mower) should be good to go IMO. Thin is good here - it's easier to get bubbles out and as as the clutch hose has a small bore and the return port in the m/cylinder is very small then heavy oil will make the clutch more sluggish. Once you've reverse bled then angle the bars so the master cylinder is higher than any part of the hose with the lever end highest. Give the hose a few taps with your fingers to free up any bubbles and leave it a while (like overnight if you can wait that long!) Then give the clutch lever some rapid wiggles - moving the lever end 1/2" or so. If there is any trapped air you should see a froth of little bubbles escape from the return port.
Wow. In all these years of visiting forums I believe this is the first time I've read anyone not liking the stock Magura Blood. Many have complained about the price of it, and have suggested a wide array of alternatives though...
Hi! Just paid for my order. (Do I get an extra ring as well? I didn't read this thread before ordering, so I'm not sure). But I am very sure that when I get my new piston and start using it, many will follow my lead from Estonia, cause boys are struggling with orig.pistons. BR
