Updated TPS/EFI Reset 449/511

Updated TPS/EFI Reset 449/511

"Quick Reset" of Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and EFI Controllers 449/511

1. Run engine until operating temperature is reached. Shut engine off.

2. Disconnect the positive lead on the battery, then while still disconnected, press starter to discharge remaining electricity from the capacitor, wait for approximately 15 minutes, and then reconnect the battery. This will reset the TPS on most motorcycles by itself. If not, go to step 3.

3. Turn the ignition key on (or push starter button briefly 2012-13 and listen for the fuel pump to charge up, do not start engine).

4. Turn the throttle to full stop and then back again.

5. Turn the ignition key off (or wait for efi to cycle and shut off 2012-13), and then turn it back on again (2012-13 see #3).

6. Start the bike without touching the throttle.



Air Bypass EFI Adjustment 449/511

This is the big brass screw high up on the side of the EFI body

2 ¼ turns out (+/- 1/8th of a turn) should put the minimum air bypass back in range.

Notes:

• Re-flash ECU with BMW map set #3. Most dealers can do this and solves the majority of the issues on here, poor starting/flame out issues. (TE/TXC)

• The brass screw is the only screw on the throttle body that should be adjusted.

• Add +1/8th turn if engine fails at low idle due to aftermarket exhaust.

• Remove the EFI cable cover off the side of the EFI main body and check if all the cable adjusting screws are tight and that the cables wind around the cam correctly through its full range of movement. While you are there you might as well check for the correct cable backlash/free play. There is a section in the owner’s manual which describes this.

• 2012-13 models require clutch lever activation in order to start and discharge the capacitor.

• Check battery, engine and frame grounds.

- SAM511/Tinken

Haha! Thanks, I fixed it. I do apologize for the re post, but I am seeing new posts and I am receiving pm's where people are confused between model years 2011-2013 on the subject, so here is the updated version. I have asked Coffee to add to the technical section, it needs to be an easy find for new and existing members. Thanks for the comment Kelly, much appreciated.

Thanks for reposting that. I may not have been doing it correctly. I have been disconnecting both terminals doing neg first then pos and reconnecting
pos first then neg. Is that the correct order or does it matter? The pos terminal is the only one to disconnect? I was only waiting for approx. 5 minutes before reconnecting. Hmmmm... maybe that why I'm still getting the occasional flame out. Thanks again, Tinken.

Excellent info. Thank you.

Just take the positive off, careful not to short it to ground. The above procedure will help with the occasional stuck throttles, sputtering, quirkiness of the Keihin efi system, etc.

However, it is not a cure for flame outs. Flame outs are caused by too lean of a mixture between your injected fuel and intake air. When the two mixtures reach a low enough ratio, detonation occurs causing the flame out. Flame outs usually occur at low rpm near dead throttle. Adjusting the brass bypass screw is really just for setting the idle rpm, but does help with this.

The permanent cure for this is to adjust the fuel mixture at the map level. The only real solution to curing flam-outs is to re-flash your ecu with the updated ecu map set #3. The JD tuner will help add fuel here and stop some of the flame outs. A more precise solution and unfortunately a more expensive is to bypass the Keihin map all together with aftermarket products such as Dynojet PCV or Bazzaz.

Tinken, do you already have one or both of these? I'm interested to know which one is better should I decide to pull the trigger on one.

I believe Ty has or has had both of these units in his shop, I do not as of yet, but will. There are trade offs with both units. The Bazzaz is cheaper and the auto tuner o2 sensor that comes with it will fit the stock husky manifold I am told (PCV does not). I like the Bazzaz interface, you can download it and test it out. But the Bazzaz has as a huge wiring harness, unless they have since upgraded. The DynoJet PCV allows ignition timing modifications and is expensive and you must weld in a new threaded dongle if you use the auto tuner sensor. Bazzaz allows settings every 500 rpm, PCV 250 or 500 rpm for ultra fine tuning. Ty recommends the PCV regardless of cost and there are lots of maps floating around. The race bikes ran pcv and the gains on the 250/310s were much larger. I am thinking about running the PCV without the auto tuner. There are tons of dyno's available for tuning, ZipTy racing has one, I'll have to check to see if it's plugged in.

DynoJet Downloads, Software and Manual
http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/Downloads/powercommander_downloads.aspx?ProdType=PCV

Bazzaz Downloads, software and manual
http://bazzaz.net/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=109&Itemid=213

Don't forget to download starter maps to run in the software if you load them.

Any more thoughts regarding Autotune? TE bike's seems to lean out, run even worse with increased temperature changes in Race Map 2?

Zip-ty used PCV on the race bikes and they would build a map using the auto tune @ the specific altitude and then plug it off again.

For what it is worth I just got a used 2011 TXC511 co2 plug installed and original factory slip on pipe and header. The slip on is the huge sucker, not the cool Akro. I put on the JD Power Commander and followed the recommended settings in the instructions. Yes I actually read them. The power commander really woke up the motor. In third gear the front wheel came up with ease, not something it would do before. Now here comes the rub. When I installed the spark arrester the motor went back to sleep. No difference with or without the commander. I did not play with the settings. Kind of thought JD knew what they were doing. I am looking for more torque, any recommended suggested JD settings would be appreciated. Tnx jumper

I'm confused . Are you using a Power Commander or a JD tuner, because they are completely different.

If it's the JD Tuner you are talking about, see thread below:
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2012-te-511-jd-fmf-dyno-tuned.28287/

Not sure if this is a sillly question but I'll ask it anyway.

When doing a TPS reset can one tell if it was actually reset? I'm referring to the 2nd to last sentence in Step 2.

Or, do you just have faith in the procedure and results?

Haha, I see. I would check if there was still a problem at that point. If still existing, then go on to other steps.

Thanks Tinken.

could some one take a picture of this screw on the throttle body cuz i can't seem to find it!