For now, I'm leaving that up to the dealer. Sent it back this afternoon, before we leave on vacation. They have it for a week and a half. Here's hoping for a fix...
don't know those part numbers but you are welcome to call pj's triumph in albuquerque nm pj would be able to give you some info they have been really good about researching and fixing my issues deb
I did not understand, you have changed under warranty the radiator and the thermostat of the bike? It 'an action recognized by the official home? What numbers speak?
This may sound like a stupid question, but this is my first liquid cooled bike. Are all radiator caps not the same fitment as far as the lugs go? I thought the design was pretty standard and that only the pressures changed.
I thought the same also until I tried to buy another The terra cap on the left has more car looking/type lugs, bent at right angles. My yz cap on the right has lugs only bent to about 70degs, and I didn't want to risk it blowing off and possibly causing damage to the mount, and you can see its a couple of mills higher as well, I went to a few (Japanese) bike shops and the caps all looked like this. The first cap I got off the husky dealer wouldn't even go on, the lugs were to close to the cap top or short, I almost broke the radiator trying to get it on before I realized, at this stage I was a bit traumatized I finally got a day off work and went hunting for a radiator specialist and found the exact replacement with a recovery function that works! The overheating is an issue no more, Thank F#%K for that. The short answer to your question is no, there not cheers
Do you know who makes your new cap...or what other year/make of bike it was meant for (so I can go to a dealer and ask for a cap)?
Tridon Radiator Cap part# CB17120 for the Terra http://www.tridon.com.au/Products/Product.aspx?SG=8&S=35&G=484&P=2017 Hey K, I don't know if you can find the Tridon brand in the States, and I don't know what vehicle its from, think its from tin top world! I've read how others struggle to get the cap off and back on but this new caps a breeze. Like it should be. I've finally stopped being paranoid about the coolant level in the radiator and now just go with monitoring the expansion tank. To give my husky dealer credit, the second cap was off another Terra but I still wasn't overly happy with the recovery function. When I was at the radiator specialist they brought out 2 options for me to view, a Tridon and a CPC. The CPC cap was identical to the standard terra cap. I proceeded to check both caps by sucking (this is f#%ked) to check the redraw/recovery function and I went for the one that was easier to draw air, the tridon. regards pc
Yes that's correct, Toyota (camry)(Nippon denso) caps are the same fitting but they are rated at 1.0, still its a good method of cross checking if your suss on the recovery function.(temporally) until you find a 1.2 asap. And Toyota may even be able to supply the right bar rating. Good thought
For Aussie guys, poorly made CPC caps with the opposite fault, not really relevant just more to point out the brand, as I said earlier the CPC cap is identical to the terra cap View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2GQlewdOz8
Looks like everything I see on Google is in your neck of the planet. I did see a truck one on ebay and messaged the seller if they could get our part# cap. Will let everyone know when I hear back from them.
Here is a 1.2 BAR cap that might work. It is a Stant 10233, listed as a replacement for a Camry, but in the PSI range that we need. Thoughts? http://www.amazon.com/Stant-10233-Radiator-Cap-PSI/dp/B000C808SE/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
If your suss on your cap. Take the cap and find someone who does radiators for a living. Also watch out for the hose joining the rad to the tank. On my terra its kinked where it come out of the tank, quite severely. There needs to be an elbow or a U in the hose memory pc
Those small hands need to be pretty strong... Hardest part i found was keeping my digits out of the way so as to turn the cap the last 1/4" or so. Once I learned the proper finger placement and remembered to push down at that last 1/4" of turn it got pretty easy. It's a quirky and inconvenient arrangement. Just chalk it up to 'character'
Mine ran hot and cold from new. Seemed like every long traffic signal would send the temp gauge up and kick on the fan. Once rolling again the temps would drop immediately. The bike was never down but did see some bumpy trails over the first 3K. Noticed a wet spot in the dust on the rad that remained after washing and going back out over several trips. The leak was almost imperceptible. if it wasn't for the moist dust at the center of the rad I'd have never noticed, I brought the bike to work and ran it till it got hot, shut it off, and used our sonic diagnostic tool to pinpoint/ listen to the surface of the rad, The leak could be heard dead center of the wet spot. Mind you, the wet spot 'leak' never moved enough fluid to drip onto the ground. I'm assuming the leak was so small that heat and air moving over the rad dissipated the coolant before it could collect and drip. Right at 4.2k and about 200 miles from home, on a 60 degree F rainy day it ran constantly hot while moving. When I pulled over to check the overflow it was full. After fueling up and letting the bike cool I pulled the rad cap for the first time (lots of 'What the fux' later) and found the rad empty. Refilled the rad and burped it like i'd do on an older car and made it home with no problems. My take on this is that the rad probably wasn't bled correctly from new. Then over time either the constant high temps/overheating moments or the bumping around on the trails stressed the rad and created the pinhole leak. Either way it appears the rad is susceptible to damage. I'm also a little bit suspect of the cap and cooling system design parameters, Even after replacing the rad with new (which included a new cap), bleeding the system, and making sure all hoses were routed properly, the replacement rad has still not transferred any liquid between the rad and the overflow tank. My experience with water cooled bikes is that when the temp gauge is high and you stop to get fuel you'll typically hear/see fluid moving into the expansion tank. If the stop was for a meal and fuel I usually notice that most of the fluid that came out of the rad was pulled back in as it cooled. I've yet to see a 'proper' cooling cycle on the Strada. Only two things I can think of it to be are: 1) a leak that defeats the vacuum needed to transfer fluid or 2) the cap sourced has too much opening spring pressure (probably emissions related to force the engine to run at a high temp which helps create a cleaner combustion cycle) Has anyone ever witnessed the coolant tank cycle on their Terra?
Have a read of this thread. Probably could be merged? http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/radiator-coolant-level.32118/
You might ask what this picture has to do with overheating Huskies. Well, I found myself at the auto parts store picking up parts for a neighbor when it occurred to me that I could solve this cap issue once and for all. So here I sit, waiting for the bike to cool before so we can get a really good look at that cap and find a part number for a replacement.
