It's true now I remember that you had changed the fuel pump ..... here we were waiting for the ebay link where you bought it please. Furthermore 10 km / liter is a crazy consumption for a TE if you have everything in series with only bypass connector lambda probe 'cause you do not use 100/100/100 you have a European bike ...... in standard configuration. not a gas land-to-ground missile
Hey Rotax, sorry for forgetting to post the link. Porduct was bought from ebay from sjrautoparts but it is not available anymore. It looked exactly like this so i believe it is the same https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-HUSQ...708776?hash=item283e58f3a8:g:-ZwAAOSw9mFWJjUX This was the description: HUSQVARNA TE125 250 450 510 530 610 630 650 MOTORCYCLE IN TANK PETROL FUELPUMP and this was the picture
If you can, check the pressure of pumpcarb. Its stranger. The spark is correct? At cold check with ibeat the temp engine and trhotlle and reset throttle
Hi folks, I have a mystery I hope you might help me solve. I posted this as a question at advrider, but I have a feeling I will have better luck here... I have a 2008 TE610. After owning the bike for a year and honestly being underwhelmed by the engine's performance I finally made myself an iBeat cable and tried to tune it. Its an '08 so it took me a bit of time to figure out why the CO settings weren't working, and that I had to change the FB ("feedback") setting instead. The PO had installed the so-called power up kit (resistor and plug in place of O2 sensor) and an Uptite exhaust. I reinstalled the stock exhaust half a year ago because though I loved the look, the Uptite was so much louder. Surprisingly, I barely noticed a drop in power when I went to the stock can. So last week I made that ibeat cable. I reinstalled the O2 sensor, and immediately ibeat was up and running. Changed the FB settings from 100/100/100 to 106/112/118. I picked those numbers mostly because I knew I could remember them. WOW. What a difference. I couldn't believe it was the same bike. Though it still doesn't pull like my SV650 on the street, the TE610 will now casually cruise up to 70mph on a steep grade--something it struggled to do before the adjustment. The torque band feels broader and smoother, and acceleration in 2nd & 3rd gears feels quick and snappy--especially in the upper rpms. It made me fall in love with this bike like I hadn't before. But I still had the O2 sensor in place--and reading this thread got me all excited about reinstalling the resistor to get the untapped potential of a well-tuned bike on "race map". Though the power-up kit had been installed, I assumed it didn't yet feel right simply because it hadn't been tuned right. Hodgecobbler's posts on advrider [ http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...s-sign-in-thread.156429/page-546#post-9539975 & http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...s-sign-in-thread.156429/page-546#post-9541022 ] were an inspiration to buy a handlebar mounted "map" switch--that way I could retain fuel efficiency for long hauls (and tune with ibeat at any time without having to reinstall the O2 sensor) and quickly switch to hooligan mode at any time... I bought a switch on Amazon [ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073WBB2T6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ] and hooked it up to a relay. The grey O2 sensor wires were connected to the NC (normally closed) terminals, so when the handlebar switch is turned on, an indicator light shows on the switch and the relay opens the circuit. I confirmed very low resistance in the grey wires and a completely open circuit when the switch was turned on. In other words, when switched on the ecu should think the bike has the power up kit (resistor in place of o2 sensor), and when switched off the ecu should think its bone stock. I buttoned everything up, switched the map switch on, saw a green light, and fired up the engine; I took the bike out on the street to some familiar roads, and.... nothing. No difference. Switched it back off and started the bike again--no difference. Took trip up from South Lake Tahoe to Dunsmuir & back (6 hours each way, lots of varying terrain & elevation change)... and never noticed a difference. The bike is still running great--as I mentioned before the ibeat tuning really unlocked the bike--so no complaints and I'm so happy with the bike. But I'm confused! What's going on here? I notice that, for instance, the "O2 Long-term Adaptation Valuese" aren't available--ibeat says "Cannot use this function to this year's model." Another confusing thing--I expected a "Communication stops" notification from ibeat when switching on the map switch (cutting the 02 communication off), but no such thing. ibeat keeps working as if nothing had changed... If you have a tuned '08, do you understand what is going on? In other words, is this "race map" a myth?
I think there is a general lack of understanding (not aimed at anyone in particular) of what the Power Up plug does. There is no "race map" in the ECU. The Power Up plug is just a resister that causes the ECU to see a fixed voltage coming back from the oxygen sensor circuit. This locks the ECU onto a fixed area of the fuel map so that adjustments can be made with a fuel tuner. With out the PU plug you would chasing a moving target as the O2 sensor was "moving" the map. In the KTM world there really is a separate "race map" which can be selected that fuels the bike in an optimum manner that is uncompromised by emissions concerns. Their ECUs were never designed to function with a O2 sensor in an closed-loop arrangement. It's my belief that Husky designed these bikes with O2 sensors to meet the letter of the law in some regions, knowing the dealers would have the PU plug and ability to adjust the fueling for more consistent open-loop results. Unfortunately this didn't always happen and many PU plugs were installed without the adjustments being made in iBeat. In theory a closed-loop system should not need any fuel adjustments, the O2 sensor should take care of it. What I have never seen is a documented case of a 630 with the O2 sensor in place that dynos good numbers. Mine was terrible. It could be that it takes time for the O2 sensor to establish "trims" to the fuel curve and my bike was too new when I dyno'd it with the O2 sensor?? I don't know and have no reason to try since we have good open-loop options available. I think generally speaking, thumpers don't play well with O2 sensors - witness the fact that 2018 KTM 350/450/500 bikes are open-loop (no O2 sensor) from the factory and always have been. In the case of the 610 bikes, I have no explanation for why the ECUs behave differently then the 630. .
since there are different types of ecu according to the regulations where the bikes were sold I am convinced that the bikes with European ecu do not need any modification once the lambda probe is removed. the values of power and torque detected by several magazines in the motorcycle industry suggest that the standard bikes sold in Europe have excellent performance of slightly less than those of 690 ktm. here an example of what I say. https://www.rustsports.com/metal/dual-sport/2011-ktm-690-enduro-r-vs-husky-te630_6975.html
It's interesting that the bike in the article still has the O2 sensor installed. Could just be plugging the bung... .
I think that inserting the connector to eliminate the lambda probe goes to intervene also on the spark ignition advance. if there is no extreme interest in pollution by modifying the advance, good results can be obtained on the power supply and on the regularity of operation. this in my opinion
This is my ECU, still stalling, trying to figure out a pattern or what the conditions are when it stalls. But it's hard to figure it out
My guess is you have a problem unrelated to iBeat or fuel settings. If you're not seeing any error codes stored, I'd start with the basics. Check fuel pressure at the rail, compression check, fresh spark plug, eliminate bad fuel as a possibility. Is this a SMS bike with a tip sensor? .
The tip sensor... That is also a possibility... Oké, indeed I'll go over the basics and start from the beginning again. You know the resistance values of the sensor?
Interesting. This conflicts directly with hodgecobbler's beta at advrider, but may explain the results I'm seeing. Here is what s/he was suggesting there: But your explanation still confuses me, perhaps because of the limitations of my electrical knowledge. Doesn't a resistor simply apply a fixed resistance to the circuit (as opposed to a fixed voltage)? In other words, if there is variable voltage in the system, and a resistor is placed in the circuit, wouldn't the resulting vary still? If only this information was more simple to track down. As "consumers" we're left scratching our heads, reverse-engineering...
The resistor is only there to stop the ecu throwing a fault code. The lambda sensor has 4 wires, 2 for the sensor and 2 for a heating element, the resistor imitates the resistance of the heating element, making the ecu think its still there.
Thanks Spice Weasel. That was my understanding, based on the info I quoted (above) from hodgecobbler. But if that's the case, why doesn't my switch (which opens the circuit between the 2 sensor wires) change anything? In other words, the ECU shouldn't care if the resistance it senses is due to the the lambda sensor (stock) or the resistor (PU kit). All it should care about is if it is getting signal voltage (from the lambda sensor), or if its an open circuit (PU kit with lambda removed). But the results of my mod seem to suggest something else is going on...
I imagine this would be playing with fire but... I wonder what would happen if I swapped out my '08 TE610 ECU and installed a TE630 ECU in its place?
I checked the tilt sensor quickly, with engine running, tried to turn the sensor or move cables but nothing happened. So I'll be checking the basics when I got some time now.
Is it possible to use ibeat on a tablet with android? There are some videos and reviews on the web that explain how to do it. someone tried. it would be nice to always have ibeat in your backpack or pocket. thanks for every clarification
