This is a article about air fuel ratios although it is about cars and carbs there is a lot of info that crosses over to F/I and thumper's internal combustion is internal combustion weather it is a single cylinder or a V12 the same principals apply http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0402_innovate_air_fuel_ratio_meter/index.html
rjdenya -- When you're done tuning, can you post your Power Surge settings? I've got a Power Surge on my 630 but my tuning has been 'seat of the pants'. I'd like to know how different my settings are compared to yours. thanks.
MrClean, my bike has twin Leo Vince Enduro slip-ons and holes drilled in the air box. My JD settings will work based on my intake and exhaust mods specifically. Either way I will post my settings when I'm done testing.
I installed the JD Power Surge on my 2011 TE310 and adjusted the settings per the instructions. I did not use iBeat at any time before or after. Now no more decel pop and 1/8 to full throttle much stronger. But I still have a pronounced "light switch" condition from idle to 1/8, and in some instances, a little bobble remains when I whack the throttle open from idle. The bobble is not as bad as before the tuner was installed. I'm assuming I should tweak the G-B and\or the G range, but leaner, richer, or what? Thanks
Update after a really wet ride: Went for a ride with LOTS of puddles about a week ago; not deep water. I have never heard this bike backfire before until then. Something is still getting wet and making it cut out on the bottom end immediately after splashing through water. I've already sealed the coil so must be another connector or something getting doused and shorting until things dry out. Guess I'll take the tank off and check/grease all the connectors I can find. Am brainstorming some kind of rubber splash shield to attach under the tank. Any more ideas out there? Edit: yes, I did reply to myself
Did you open the airbox? If so, it could have been caused by water in the box and/or a wet air filter.
Those 2 wires "appeared" to be pretty well sheathed and factory sealed where they enter the coil. Or are you referring to the 2 prong connector itself?
I seal the actual plug wire itself where it goes into the coil, it is secondary voltage leaking that causes most wet missfires.
The JD tuner transformed my bike into a beast. What a simple design and simple to use. I used the "JD settings" for my 450TE and I feel I am on a new bike. WOW!!! I have THRUST.
I tried that a while back and just replaced the coil with a new one...$35 My silicone fix lasted about 6 months. I sealed the coil to mounting lug holes.
Aright, gave my dealer a call to see what he thought. He's personally witnessed a water issue at the injector connector as was able to duplicate it with a water hose. I disconnected mine, applied dielectric grease inside and sealed the back side of the connector with silicone where the 2 wires enter. I also made a splash guard out of thin plastic and installed/wedged it behind and between the radiators where all the water gets thrown by the front tire onto the backbone of the frame from underneath. While I was at it, I used the leftover piece of plastic to make an airbox cover to prevent water from running between the seat and tank junction and pouring directly on to the air filter. BTW, the plastic I utilized was a "Beware of Dog" sign commonly available at any hardware store. "For Sale", "Open/Closed" are made of the same stuff. Perfect thickness to work with and cut with scissors. I'm including this post in this particular thread mainly for continuity relating to other posts mixing JD tuning and troubleshooting. Getting a little messy, though.
The purpose of resetting the CO's with the JD tuner, is it just have to do with JD setting their tuner for these neutral levels so you don't have to be extra lean on their scale if your CO happens to be a higher number? Or is there some ignition or other mechanics going on that I don't know about? For instance, my CO's are between 102 and 104 while I'm using the tuner. I also have the Kwai injector thrown into the mix to really goof things up but the injector riches everything up so I'm thinking I could neutral my CO's to 100 so I don't have to be so lean with the JD tuner? JD dosnt specify this in their instructions.
I think I have effectively the same question, but haven't asked it so clearly over in the 12 hole thread. I have 2011 TE250 with the 12 hole injector and associated ecu, but still stock pipe. Upon buying it, the dealer did some iBeat work, but not by the "guy" that usually does it. Bike ran great up top, but flamed out down low. Now installed JD tuner, but having trouble dialing it in. I am assuming that the dealer played with various settings in the ecu, wich means my current settings are likely different than those JD's suggested settings are designed to work with. My question is should I: (a) just keep playing with the tuner and accept that my settings will be quite different than those suggested by JD's; (b) set the tuner to 4's accross the board and take the bike back to the dealer and have them dial it in as best as they can withiBeat and then I start playing with the JD settings; or (c) set the tuner to 4's accross the board and take the bike back to the dealer and JUST have them set all settings to 100 (i guess that is CO settings) and then start playing with the JD settings? Thanks! James
I have the JD tuner on my 310, the recommended settings they give are to add or subtract from the base line of all co settings set at 100.
did you all just buy the $79 guage? strongly thinking of buying this jd tuner and the A/F gauge for my bike.
