4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
Discussion in '4 Stroke' started by Vansmack, Jun 3, 2009.
Yes to this question. Make sure the kill switch/button is set to the RUN position.
Take the tank off, and put 12v power to the red wire and ground the black or dark blue wire. You should hear the fuel pump start spinning. Gas will spurt out of the red L fitting, you can remove the fuel pump from the tank altogether but it takes more time.
If the pump does not start spinning, chances are that your pump is seized from too much varnish inside and the impeller cant spin. Time for a new pump.
Wow that's been so long ago . Let's see I replaced the relays but they weren't bad, I believe that I had a temperature sensor that wasn't functioning correctly 100% of the time . But I still had an issue with the fuel pump when the bike was hot if the stock tank got low on fuel. The fix for that was to insulate the bottom of the fuel tank with ????? can't remember the name of the stuff , maybe I bought it from the same place as my skid plate. Anyhow once I switched over to the IMS tank and didn't have that problem anymore.
Thanks for the information. Agreed on the kill switch position. I made sure this was not an additional thing I was overlooking! Haha that would be bad!
Thanks for this information too! I will do this troubleshooting tonight and let you know how it goes.
By the way, I have received helpful tips on where to get a pump. Here are two links. Have you any experience with any of them?
Thanks waserman. I'm going to continue the troubleshooting and post my findings. I also have the IMS tank, which I think is going on as soon as I have this figured out and can start the bike.
CAcycleWorks is a good company and I thought they had a guarantee on their pumps, I've used their 38mm pump and was happy.
The $50 pump, I think you'll get what you pay for on that one, no experience with it.
Hey Older Husky Rider,
So I got to troubleshooting last night and have confirmed that the relay works and the pump does not. I am actually learning a lot about the electricals on the bike. Being mechanically inclined, electricity is challenging to grasp, but am surprised how far I got. I even figured out that as soon as the ignition key is turned on, there is a split second where 12 volts are fed into the pump motor, and then back to zero volts. I assume this is the initial fuel supply pressure up sequence prior to engine start. But, where does the power to run the pump come from after that initial 12 volt supply? Now I need to figure that part out.
Here is my suspicion of what happened: the pump came out the two white tabs (which is the main subject of this thread), the fuel was too low for the pump to suck in fuel, the pump ran dry for some time, and failed. Is this a reasonable sequence of events?
Now to the new pump. Seems like I also need a new hose that goes between the pump outlet and filter inlet. I pulled and pulled, and I cannot disconnect the current hose from the pump outlet. Is there a trick to this?
Thanks for your continued support!
The relay that powers the pump (and other stuff) delivers a 1.5 second burst when the key is turned on and/or when the kill switch is set to run, and then goes into inactive mode since the motor is not running. When the ECU sees that the motor is being started and continues to run, the same relay stays hot and delivers the electricity.
When the pump runs dry and the engine dies, the electricity stops flowing to the pump and it shuts off. The pump cannot really continue to run with the engine not running.
A more likely cause is that the bike has set up from time to time and a film of varnish develops inside the pump, and with the tolerances being so tight inside, the pump seizes up.
Pull the pump out of the holster and put 12v power to it, I'll bet it does not spin at all.
I just cut all the existing hoses off the pump assembly and replaced it with 5/16" submersible fuel line from Gates.
I also replaced the fuel filter with this one, FF3330DL, it has 5/16" nipples, both ends.
Thanks for the information, pretty interesting!
Yes, I took the pump out of the holster and gave it 12 volts. Nothing.
Time to order a new pump. I'll also look into the hose and filter you used. If there is the varnish around, it a safe bet that there's some of it in the filter as well. Is there a way to reduce/eliminate the varnish? I plan to ride the bike frequently.
The pump, hose, filter, etc. finally arrived yesterday. Seems like the stuff came accross the ocean because the parts were certainly on the slow boat haha.
I put everything together and the bike started right up. Success!
Thanks Old Husky Rider for all your input and support.
One thing still puzzles me though. It was not like the pump failed when the engine was running and in motion. It was when I wanted to start the bike that it wouldn't. If pump fails when bike is running, I assume the fuel delivery stops and bike engine stops. Is it simply coincidence that the pump happened to fail when the engine was off?
Yes, coincidence, I had a pump fail on me when I hit a sharp-edge bump at speed, really kicked my rear end high, when it came down, bam, the pump was no longer pumping, and yes, the bike just stops running.
Congrats on fixing your problem.
That is what I did.
3 yrs ago and holding fine.
Same thing happened to me.
when my 2010 was new, at the Beehive Enduro ot failed twice this way.
Once on a mega-whoop and once when hammering a downed tree.
Took it out, plugged it in and it re-spun both times.
I had the same thing happening with my 2010 TE250 (which I just got, with only 388KM on it, a month ago). Glad I came across this thread. I zip-tied vertically and around the pump clips. Glad it was a quick 30 minute fix (most of which is draining the fuel out of the tank...)
Thanks for this thread fellas, my pump died yesterday.
So I own a Husky 510 SMR 2008 mod. I went riding for some weeks ago and the bike suddenly stalled, and the green neutral light was flashing. After turning the ignition off and wait for two minutes, the bike started again and ran like normal until it stalled again after 5 minutes. I took it home and came over this thread. I took out the fuel pump and installed the zip tie, and put it back together before starting it up. After idling for 2 minutes the bike stalled again, but this time when I turned off/on the ignition, the pump was not cycling. The green light only went flashing for "fuel injection issue" when the ignition was on. I took out the pump again and it was cycling when connected to the 12V battery, so I think it´s something else which is causing the issue.
My nearest Husky dealer is 500km away...
Is there anyone which can help me find the error?
On the 2010 bike, the Green with red stripe wire powers the fuel pump and spark. Find out what wire powers the fuel pump on your bike and examine all of the wire for bare spots. Also, when an older fuel pump gets hot, it will expand and freeze up. The only fix is to replace the fuel pump if that's the problem.