I was able to sneak some time away from the child, wife, and homework to work on husky. Sure enough the vacuum cap I did add to the hose and tucked away was missing. Must have vaporized. Rather than spend ominous amounts of time in a cramped space to put another cap on, I removed the hose entirely and capped at the throttle body. Idling for about ten minutes didn't tell me if there was an improvement, and I have a couple other minor projects (check engine light) to do before I put the plastic on and go ride, but I feel a bit better about this now.
Good to hear! As far as I'm concerned that can was just one too many things hanging out with the radiator. Being I've had the radiator out as many times as I have it just wasn't going back!
Bike is running a bit better, still has a drop around 3000 but only really a pain in 1st gear. I can get rid of the check engine light (not sure I was trying the right methods). Uncovered the connector but the liquid eletical tap was to resilent to scratch off, so I cut and unsheathed the wiring and tried them together, apart, grounded, and to the sensor pins. Each time I would shut the bike off, then on again for it's self diagnostic. No bueno. Will see if Ride West in Seattle can read code. Now to determing if a booster plug, eruption, or PCV is the next route to go for the throttle.
The connector is just left unplugged as is. I covered mine with tape, but that's it. As for your check engine light you need to go back under the body work and really check what you did while you were in there. My guess is that there is something unplugged. There aren't too many things to check, so just pull it off and look. Trace all your wires to the motor. The case for there being something unplugged is especially good if the light comes on right on start up. The evap will not do that.
Ok, I will have another look--the light comes on after turning the ignition on letting it perform it's start-up diagnostics.
Have not had a chance to look extensively beyond the area I was messing with. Once I get done some classwork I expect to have time latter this week and will post what, if anything, I find.
Sorry, I took a quick glance with the plastics on, it's all I have been able to sneak time away for. My academic career ends tomorrow, at which point the bike is my next objective, especially as I am hoping to get out on a non-commuting ride this Saturday. The local beemer shop said they can attempt to read the code for $50 if I can't find anything.
Glengemen, thank you for you apt advice. I owe you a beverage of your choice. The image that I hopefully attached correctly shows the cause of my check engine light. This is on the rights side of the bike, beneath the air box, viewed with the plastics removed. It appears to be a sensor attached to the throttle body (throttle position sensor perhaps?). On to the fixing the air box now.
Hi there I need some help here with this Vac Plug?! forgive me I might be an imbecile but is there a special Vac Plug? Im having idling issues after installing PCV and found somewhere here a possible solution , fixing leaking Vacuum line so this hose I see in the picture is this a vacuum line? should it be plugged thanks
this is only an issue if you have removed the fuel vapor charcoal canister. It collects fuel vapor from the tank and circulates it back into the engine. A rubber hose like on that photo is connected to the throttle body. That hose or the brass connector at the throttle body needs to be plugged. It's easiest to plug the hose with a bolt and secure it in place with a hose clamp. You can see that brass nipple on the right side of the throttle body in this pic. Check if it's plugged or if there's still a hose attached check if the end of the hose is open or plugged assuming the evap system has been removed. People have put rubber caps on that brass nipple but those either get lost or deteriorate which will allow air to be sucked in which throws off the fuel map.
There are 2 other mistakes in understanding the evap cannister operation people make in removing the evap cannister The BMS-E firmware leans off the fuel supply slightly when ever it activates the cannister valve so when removing it the fuel supply is continuously pulsing lean, there is no solution to the problem on the TR650 The second is handling of the electrical connection, if left open circuit the BMS-E will generate fault codes or short out the contacts in the electrical connector to the valve, this can result in failure of the BMS-E. The right way to do it is to put a 300 ohm resistor across the contacts so the BMS-E thinks the cannister is still connected & hence does not generate fault codes
Wayne, The 300 ohm resistors I see for sale range in wattage starting at .25w (the cheapest) and moving up from there (.5,1,2,5,10w). For this application would one be better than the other? thanks
you can just leave the valve plugged in although leaving it unplugged didn't have any noticeable effect. I also don't have any idle or other issues with the evap stuff removed.
When selecting the power rating for a resistor you use 2 formulae, V=RI & then P=VI In this case the current through the resistor would be 0.05 amps so power consumed 0.75 watts, a resistor of 1 to 2 watts would be needed, the higher the power rating the lower the resistor temperature when the valve is activated by the BMS-E, one person used 2 x 150 watt resistors in series as it made it easier to install The goal with the resistor is to use the highest value possible to minimise power consumption but still ensure no fault codes are generated
