Beware all 13 redhead owners. Blown hose & more

"!+1

I'll see if I can get pricing on the unit first.

I remember Ty had those trick oil coolers made for the ZipTy Racing TXC450/510s

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2011-HUSQ...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27df7b86fa

are these any good thanks

What SS filter are we using ? thx

"What SS filter are we using ? thx"

PC Racing Flo



Flip the rubber grommet for perfect fit...



Buy here.. http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/PC-Racing-FLO-Drop-In-Stainless-Steel-Oil-Filter-P-p/4057725.htm

I have said this many times on this site. My 2010 tc250 blew up at 50 hours for no real reason other than a weak design never had any bike turn oil black so fast and run so hot and hard to start sometimes. My cr165 also took out a connecting rod bearing but after five years and way over 250 hours, a very good designed motor. Tc cost over $2000.00. Cr cost under $800.00 to fix and cr165 is lighter and quicker bike. I would never buy or tell someone to buy no matter how cheap a Husky 250 x-light bikes the motors are junk. This is my own oppion and might be wrong.

Too bad on your bike .. Feel free to educate all of us about this weak design...

You are partially right, they do blow up, but for a specific reason. Oil flow. And I would like to think or hope that I have helped many of the riders on this forum prolong that event.

lol ... Thats called giving someone an easy out ...

I was looking around for the link to the active component in Maxilube. It uses mineral oil as the carrier and 5% ADDP. Link also shows ZDDP, Zinc Dialkyldithiocarbamate, the anti friction additive in most automotive oils.
ADDP = Antimony Dialkyldithiocarbamate

http://www.tiarco.com/Gease and Lube Dithiocarbamates.htm

Once again are these any good? Anyone tried the OUTLAW RACING SS Oil filter, im in the UK and best price option

Also i have just bought this

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221372857009?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Seems the same as Maxilube but UK version

L.p.quote="Pedec, post: 391987, member: 1849"]I have said this many times on this site. My 2010 tc250 blew up at 50 hours for no real reason other than a weak design never had any bcpoe turn oil black so fast and run so hot and hard to start sometimes. My cr165 also took out a connecting rod bearing but after five years and way over 250 hours, a very good designed motor. Tc cost over $2000.00. Cr cost under $800.00 to fix and cr165 is lighter and quicker bike. I would never buy or tell someone to buy no matter how cheap a Husky 250 x-light bikes the motors are junk. This is my own oppion and might be wrong.[/quote]

Just ran my 13 xlite thru a major heat cycle. Not sure how many current 4 strokes could have survived it. Ive also changed oil after every ride and has nothing but Mobil 1 and XF coolant in it..

What do you mean by flip the grommet? I just put mime straight put of package into bike and it fit fine. I bought magnet that Tinken suggested, but it didn't look like it would allow cover to fit back on tight.

Stevel. I got my s+s filter from kickdirt here in the UK. Also use Mobil 1 in my 310r.
There is a lot of very good info on here, Tinken and his crew have been sorting Huskys out for years so you have to listen to them. No point in re-inventing the wheel eh .

Scotty

Theses motors run hot not sure why sounds like oil lube problem, have a weak connecting rod design that may also be a oil related problem I am not really sure to be honest. I changed oil every 2 rides or 2 hours with full synthectic oil cleaned air filter as needed and ran filter skin. I am c rider that was not riding bike WOT all the time. I really take good care of my bikes and generally have good luck with all my motorized toys I have since I do not try to wreck shit. This TC250 has a history of problems I found out after phoning around to shops to find out how to fix it.

I just ordered 2 of these filters for my 11 TXC 250. Done with the paper filters. Saw one sucked in (paper element) on a different bike (non husky)...good enough for me.

It is easy to get confused reading stuff about these oil filters (paper x stainless mesh).

I like my KTM RFS motor beacuse because it has 2 oil filters so I run one paper and one stainless!

Now with my TE310R I don't know what to do..... Stainless sounds better to me except for the "how to clean" issue.... Some people claim you need an agitator to properly clean them....

Take the little rubber grommet out and flip it over. This will yield a few more mm's for oil to pass around the filter.