The problem with "snugging" up the screws is that they will only go so far to do any good. The metal flange ring allows the o-ring to compress only to the point the metal ring contacts the plastic, after that, if you snug it too far you'll spin the inserts. Regarding the ratio of bikes sold to problem tanks is pointless to speculate since not every owner is a board member. Although I'm curious as well to see the number of warranty claims for this issue....I'm not holding my breath.
Just to add, get a paint pen and after you've checked your bolts put a dab on the bolt to mark its position. Just easier to do repeated visual checks over the long run.
Another 630 here with a gas leak, yet to determine where its coming from but after reading this forum I have an idea....
1800 miles on mine, and had the leak today, had some of the white residue but i had a full tank and it was hot, so i suppose it couldve been the pressure, when i took the gasket of the pump i was expecting to see a tear but only the residue, put it back together and havent had any issues but haven filled it up yet either
Well, at nearing 7K miles mine started to leak. Weird thing is that it's been sitting inside- no riding for months- as I've been doing winter maintenance...just started spontaneously leaking last night ( and no check valve.) Bummer- I want the thing up and running within two weeks. What sealants have folks used that have worked? My hope is that I can pull the pump, clean mating surfaces and o-ring, then re-install w/ an added sealant. I saw one inmate here used Permatex aviation...wondering what others may have used. Yep- I'm aware the mating surface may be warped but Really Hoping that's not the issue and, if it is, that it's ever so slight that a bead of sealant may do. Thanks! EDIT: BTW- When I discovered the leak and put my finger to it, I came away w/ a dark-ish gas residue (looked almost like semi-clean oil)- not the whit-ish stuff others have had. At 7K it may be that my o-ring is de-grading, so I called Hall's this morning and a new o-ring is on the way. Fingers crossed. Anyway, still interested in recommendations on gas safe sealants. Thanks!
Did you check that the bolts were tight? I just checked my valves and discovered all my pump bolts were a little loose.... .
Thanks man. I sure did and they were pretty tight. I did snug 'em down a little tighter but still seeping (w/out even running it.) My concern now is that they may be too tight and the nut-serts will spin when I go to remove the pump, but I don't wanna get ahead of myself (hopefully they'll come right out.)
I had one tank replaced under warranty. When the second tank developed a leak, I began searching for a different solution. I bought this stuff (see in earlier post link below) and used sparingly on both sides of the fuel pump gasket. It has been over a year now and I have not had a single leak. Make sure your tank vent hose is unobstructed and don't overtighten the fuel pump flange bolts - the tank plastic will deform and then the gasket will not seat properly. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/ho...l-pump-to-your-safari-tank.28099/#post-255145
Thanks jester6i. I've been reading about your exp w/ this. I wasn't able to find the aviation stuff, yet, but did buy Permeatex #2 (supposed to be good for fuel applications.) Unfortunately mine's warped. Took the pump off today and, sure enough, the lower edge (of the hole the pump goes into) is warped. Doesn't look severe but it is clear, have a new pump gasket and, w/ the sealant, hoping I'll be fortunate.
Thanks man- and for sharing your experiences with this...been helpful. I'm actually sitting here looking at the thing now- two areas are warped. Given that I'm dealing with gap I've been researching which sealant may work best and today bought Permatex Perma-Shield fuel resistant sealant. It's supposed to be the modern version of Hylomar. Looking at the two spots of warpage I gotta say I'm not too optimistic, but it's worth a shot I suppose. I'll be using this stuff and a new o-ring gasket. Once done I've gotta do my valves and head bearings, and a few other small things, then I'll have it back out to try out- will post back up in a week or two to let you guys know how it works. Worst case scenario I'll have to buy a new tank...can't imagine that'll be cheap.
I wonder if you could come up with an internal aluminum flange to pull the tank flat against the cover when you tighten it down.
Been thinking about that also. However, after staring and studying it to death I came to the conclusion (just my impression/opinion) that it would be too complex and introduce as many weak points as it may solve. First, you can't utilize the nutsert holes as they're dead-ends (not through the tank), so you'd have to do, say, three new holes. Even if you did/could use existing holes- and also in the scenario of new holes- you'd have to have a way to keep the internal plate in place while hoping to reach/engage their threads as the tank opening I.D. is real snug against the O.D. of the pump body. No room which would be preferred to keep (larger seating/sealing area.) Could use a sealer/adhesive to hold inner flange in place, but it would still be a real finesse job and again there would now be through-the-tank holes (one reason I say introducing new weak points.) Oh- and the internal plate would have to fit around the nutsert "mounds" inside the tank (the inner molded blob the nutsert is set in), thus being very thin around those inner mounds (so thin I think it wouldn't nearly make the pressure to maintain the thick/stiff plastic in a proper plane. That's the other thing- that plastic (there, the tank, right around the pump opening) is thick...and very stiff. I thought of hitting it with a heat gun while using some channel lock/parallel pliers to re-mold it but, upon noodling with that, decided that a.) it's very thick/stiff and just as likely to re-mold in a different off plane position and/or b.) the forces that brought this about would quickly bring it back to where it is now (because, since it has been very stiffly set like this, as it is now, it'll be easier for it to revert back to this state. Sadly/ironically the issue could have been avoided with better design to begin with (more, and evenly spaced, holes and fasteners with a meatier mounting plate...otherwise it's not a bad design.) I put a pretty healthy bead of the perma-shield on it but, to be honest, I'm not too optimistic (only as the gaps were larger than I'd thought. So significant, in fact, you can see the two gaps even with the external mounting plate in place.) But hey, worth a shot, so when I get the other jobs done I'll start 'er up and see what happens. I'll also call Hall's to see what the availability/cost of tank and associated gaskets will be as I'd hate to lose riding time right out of the starting blocks of the season.
If you get creative enough, you could add studs to the flange through the tank and use nuts on the pump mount. I made many aluminum tank access ports with standard riv-nuts, cork gasket and aircraft sealer, so through-the-tank bolts can be sealed. There are also sealed bolts with o-rings under the heads.
I'd agree- that's a possibility and do-able, just beyond my realm of capabilities. Hall's quotes 541 for the new tank. I don't know...can't see that it's worth it but no other options (as I do not want/need the behemoth Safari.) I guess I'll be forced to try and make the old tank work (back to the heat gun idea if the sealant doesn't work...which I don't think it will) and, if I can't make the old one work, then I'll have to buy a new tank. That'll be it for this bike though- I can understand one bad tank but if this particular issue presents again this bike will have to go (600 to swap tanks sucks but is bearable, but 2x will make it 1200 and that, for a young bike, is not acceptable in my opinion.)
something things to consider for your issue http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-T...Parts_Accessories&hash=item51b6a3b473&vxp=mtr If memory serves me correctly when I had a slight leak on my 510 I filed the pump flange slightly at the bolt hole (holes) near the leak to allow more pressure when tightening the pump to the tank and causing a tighter seal from the large o-ring gasket. Essentially I removed some of the material from the pump mount to allow it to snug up closer and pressure the gasket for improved seal (skip the remarks on the photo, I just posted it for a visual)
