2013 TXC 250 starts cold, stalls hot, then won't start.

To count off the clicks, I thread it in all the way and count clicks as I rotate counter clockwise. You are really just backing out a plunger, so it's the same as removing a screw. The manual has the direction wrong for increasing idle. It instructs you to turn clockwise to increase it, which is opposite. So, 44 counter clockwise clicks from the fully closed position is what I have it set at to prevent the motor from dying.

I tried the propane trick. I tried ether too. I couldn't get a change in RPM. I'm at 5500 feet elevation at my house.

Here is another observation: The RPMs do have two settling points. Lately, when cold, it idles much lower. As it heats up, the RPM pick up 500 rpm suddenly and stays. The increase is very noticeable. The higher TPS setting did make the idle wander go away. It's much more consistent now. No more WAH wah WAH wah...

For the pressure tester, I have to order one. I found one for $20 with the right quick connects already attached and free shipping. Estimated delivery is July 3rd. That's cheaper than me hunting for individual parts,line and gauges.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/KCASA-Au...7497&wl11=online&wl12=325746211&wl13=&veh=sem
Just checked the ECU connector for the first time. It looks fine. The ECU also matches VIN, so no surprise there.

thats a good deal. the fittings would be about $8 alone (Chinese) so you're probably coming out ahead. I don't like mega pascals; although it's an easy conversion to bar or psi even (MPa=10Bar, a bar is 1 atm or 14.7lbs... just round it to 15lbs)

disclosure: an Atmosphere is like 1% bigger than a Bar.

you wanna see at least 0.2MPa (30lbs and we'd be looking hard at the pressure regulator) to somewhere around 0.3MPa (43lbs- about normal). Anything too much over 0.35MPa (50psi) probably indicates a bad regulator also

so i guess the sweet spot is 0.25-0.35MPa

Diagnostic connector, backside, on a 2014 TE310R. front left of bike

more diagnostic connector views. BTW, it looks like my blue wire is fatigued, exposing some wires. I hit all of them with black silicone for insulation and strain relief.




The TXC and TE's wiring diagrams are close but it might end up biting us.

Good on you guys for working so hard to sort this out.

This is way over my head.

Good luck!

ZipTy- if you are not having luck with email, call the shop... usually they'll answer the phone.

It's a small operation. OTOH, Ty will take time out to talk to you if he can.

I got through to them by phone. My ECU shipped out yesterday. Ty said he would test it and re-flash if warranted.

Hopefully I get it back around the same time as my fuel pressure tester.

don't forget your Cafe Husky discount code CH10. and Huskynoobee says there is a Fourth of July 15% code: FB15
these may be for parts only, not for service work but give it a try.

you can easily hot wire your fuel pump if your pressure tester shows up before you get your ecu back.

ZipTy Racing is awesome . They found the map had never been updated, which he said was unusual. Ty re-flashed it without issue. It should be on it's way back soon. He lost me a little in the description, but said it was a Vance something map that runs richer.

He also said fuel pressure regulators do go out on occasion, so the pressure gauge will come in handy. He said it should read 50PSI stagnant and no less than 35 on the throttle. No sign of the gauge yet. Happy 4th!!!

Well, no luck. I got the ECU back and plugged it in. The hot start problem persists.

I plugged my fuel pressure gauge in and it reads 52psi immediately and does not bleed off even after 20 mins. It doesn't even dip on throttle.

I reset the TPS to 0.62 per Ty's recommendation. I then bypassed the JD tuner. It will not hot start

aw- shit. I was sorta hoping this was it.

is that fuel psi at the injector & while running?

(edit: Nvm. I missed the "dip on throttle" comment)

hello,

one thing i would try to change is the stator with the pickup. i had a similar problem and it was solved by this.

good luck.

well, Jodi- "we've" tried almost everything, so maybe this is the way to go.

kurt- sometimes you can buy pickups on ebay & solder them in (instead of buying the whole stator/pickup assembly)

Pulled the stator cover and about 250mls of oil leaked out. Is this stator supposed to be dry?

Not dry... Normally most of us had oil leaks from the rubber grommet holding the wires. You could lean the bike on the right side when opening the cover.

Jodi, were you able to diagnose down to the stator? By that I mean were you able to verify the statue was bad prior to replacing it? I just verified that all three circuits on mine read 0.6 ohms per spec (cold). No issue there that I can detect. Measuring hot is a challenge since the harness is tucked in the frame, beneath the tank. Not impossible, I just have to get creative.

After studying the wiring diagram, I see that the induction for the TDC signal also comes from the stator.

it's the pickup Jodi was refering to- not the stator. (later read- looks like you understand that. It's the silver unit at the 10 o'clock position in your stator image)

most pickups (aka pulse coil, trigger coil, buncha others) are spec'd around 100ohms. seems like someone said husky was 24ohms (weird, but...)?

the bike runs normal, so whatever cold reading you get will be okay; since it only happens when hot it's hard to diagnose. Ignition coils fail this way too, sometimes. frustrating.

I do not believe this is your problem [the bike runs fine hot- just doesn't restart too easily] but I am at wit's end here. At the very least, do a hard-hard inspection of the pulse coil (maybe the ignition coil too).

I rotated this image for future readers so they could understand where the pickup coil is.

Thank you, gentlemen. Just measured 172 ohms (cold) at the tdc pick-up. Is that bad? I don't see a spec for it in the manual.

that's not a great reading IMNSHO. I would rather see 110-125 ohms, but I do not know what the stock spec is. Are you reading through one or more connections? it could be we've got some resistance that's not helping the firing sequence- slightly doubtful. maybe get as close to the pulse coil as possible (pierce the wiring with needles even) with your meter.

OTOH, aren't you getting spark during the hot no-start event? seems like we confirmed that.

[edit: I just looked on ebay, and the resistance of a couple of pulse coils was different: 260 ohms for quite a few Honda mx'ers, and 200 ohms for a handful of Yamahas.... so I'm not sure my limited experience is valid]

[edit winter 2017-18: user panthocrator reported that the aftermarket pick-up coil he got for his '08 510 was 100ohms (the pick-up is for a KTM but might be the same for an xlite too). http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/pulser-coil-needed.88545/#post-638786]

I did pull a plug when the hot start issue was present a few weeks ago. I saw a spark, but can't speak to timing or intensity.

I measured the resistance at the connector leading to the tdc pick-up.

Not sure what you are asking here:

Looking for a break in the wiring?