• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

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    Thanks for your patience and support!

Zip-Ty recirculation tank fittings positions

M

Marc Noel

Husqvarna
AA Class
Greetings:

Just got my oil recirculation kit for my TE 449 yesterday, and I have two questions. First, would someone please confirm placement of the drain-back hose on the left side of the engine? Last I read here is that Ty moved it from the drain plug to the the next hole, which is the rear screen filter.

The other question is - in other pictures I've seen of others' set-ups, the two upper fittings on the tank face in different directions, with no two tanks identical. The fittings on mine are quite solidly mounted (with thread sealant), so I don't know if I should try to rotate them for better routing positioning. Am I supposed to just use them as originally configured?
 
Yes, the return line goes to the rear screen plug next to the drain. You can rotate the fittings if you like. Some run a short hose from the breather to the tank, but it seems to work best to run a longer line in a half loop to the left side of the head and back (approx. 12"). The other fitting on the bottle top side goes directly to the air box and the return line to the case is pretty self explanatory.
 
Thank you. It was your last post on "Oil levels post Zip-Ty Oil Recirculation Kit installation" that said it was like this. I wasn't sure if there was anything superseding it.

Before I go out and buy a Torx bit to fit all 11 screws on the tank, so I can investigate how the fittings are mounted, how do I go about swiveling them? I am concerned about breaking them if I try. Please see picture of overhead view of tank, showing fittings orientation. Do they appear to be correctly positioned?

The kit didn't include any hose clamps or a mounting bolt. Is it just the one bolt holding it on, in conjunction with friction between the head half-moons and tank, and the hoses supporting to a certain extent?
 

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Don't take the tank apart. The fittings are threaded in. That position should work fine. No need to mess with it. It's just the one bolt on the head. There is no pressure in the system so you can use zip ties to hold the hoses in place.

I don't remember if my kit came with a bolt. Mine is one of the very first kits and it's been a couple years.
 
Okay. Thanks. I'm now waiting for a stainless steel oil filter, magnetic oil fliter cap, and aluminum filler cap from Zip-Ty, then I'll install the kit and do an oil change at the same time. I got some Mobil 1 European 0w40. Luckily, I have a drill press. I'll hunt down a mounting bolt, and I can use some Loctite 243 I just got for my rotor bolts.

For those who have drilled their valve covers off-set, they might be able to enlarge the bolt hole through the breather, so that it can be off-set, and just use a longer bolt with a metal washer on top of a rubber one, vs. an o-ring.

Separately, some have complained about the return line hindering access to the other filter (or both, for kits connected to the drain hole), but it's extremely simple. First of all, it's not like it is being done every 20 minutes, so an extra minute every 300 miles (for example) shouldn't be a big deal. Second, all one has to do is loosen the AN fitting nut first, then remove the fitting in the rear filter hole. The AN nut doesn't need to be removed, but loosening it will allow the nut to spin freely and the hose to float (vs. twisting) while the fitting is removed from the case, which is required to remove/clean/replace the filter screen. When replacing, tighten the fitting into the case, adjust hose position, then tighten AN nut. Done like breakfast!
 
Since I've got you on the line, I sent a PM to Coffee, asking if I could relate an abysmal business transaction with a particular vendor, as I wasn't sure if it was allowed or appropriate, but I've not received a reply. I want others to know what I encountered, because others need to know about it. I don't want it to be that this jackass got away with semi-murder, and that I'm the only one who knows. I would hope that my story would prevent problems for others. Any thoughts?
 
hunh.

well, I'm not Newbie, but 1st of all... ....you probably would want to start a new thread. Because if it isn't ZT (and I'm thinking: no way. 'sides, Newbie is sorta an unofficial go-between for ZTR, so you would have that route for a solution) then you wouldn't want to "contaminate" some small business owner's rep with a bitch about another biz in a thread with his name in the title.

I'd be surprised if you heard anything from the caffeinated one. but who knows?

good luck. let us know what's up. gently.
 
Trenchcoat85:

Okay. Thanks. I will start a new thread where I will say what happened, but not who or what the product/service is, then tell anyone interested to PM me, and I will give them the rest of the info.
 
Did the drain back plug really get moved to the screen fitting? Can any one else confirm this? Mine is connected to the drain plug. Can I use the same an fiting that's attached to my drain plug to fit the screen fiting?
 
14te449 said:
Did the drain back plug really get moved to the screen fitting? Can any one else confirm this? Mine is connected to the drain plug. Can I use the same an fiting that's attached to my drain plug to fit the screen fiting?
Click to expand...

Yes, Ty has e-mailed me a confirmation that the current drain return hose set-up connects to the rear screen filter opening, which is in front of the drain plug, but behind the front screen filter. I don't think the old and new are interchangeable, from what I read previously. Perhaps ZT offers an updated stand-alone fitting.
 
14te449 said:
Why was this changed? Any consequences running it to the drain plug
Click to expand...


Here's a link to the thread where it talks about the switched position for the hose:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/oi...l-recirculation-kit-installation.44826/page-4

The following is a quote from huskynoobee, the latest post in that thread, from March 26, 2016:

"OK, for everyone who is getting the recent kits, I have the update for you.

According to Ty, the original return to the drain plug caused problems, so he decided to move it to the center filter screen inlet. The main reason is that this is where the Eaton pump is drawing oil from the case. This way, any oil that has collected in the recovery system will be drawn into the pump and prevent build up of residual oil that may be forced into the airbox."
 
The plug adapter to the case is a different size thread for the drain hole vs the screen hole. If you're not having any trouble then it's not a necessity. Some of the 511s seem especially prone to passing a large amount of oil during sustained high RPM running that was overwhelming the first two generations of the tank return design. I still run the first gen system that returns to the oil filler on the right side of the case and have no issue. Ty did tell me that I can get an update kit if I decide to. Call the shop to check, because the update kit on the website shows the return to the oil drain plug. http://www.ziptyracing.com/husqvarna-oil-breather-tank-hose-kit/
 
UPDATE: Got the kit installed. As I have previously commented about pictures of others' set-ups, no two tanks had their fittings positioned the same. I routed the breather-to-tank hose as suggested (around the spark plug), but the tank fitting points straight back, and the hose ended up with a kink, due to a too-tight bend going forward to the breather. I massaged the hose, and got it to open up more, but it doesn't appear round - more oval. I will monitor it.

The other thing is - on Zip-Ty's site, there are two reviews of the kit, and one talks about heat shielding for a hose. I didn't receive any shielding, and I did notice that the drain-back to the left side of the engine is precariously close to the exhaust. I moved it away, but it may migrate while riding. Think I need to worry about the hose melting or blistering?
 
The first gen kit came with a mesh type heat shield because the return line ran directly behind the pipe. It also came with a bracket to keep the hose away from the pipe.
 
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