• 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

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    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

125-200cc WR125 Questions and Must-Do Mods

Alex_9

Alex_9

Husqvarna
A Class
Hi all,
I recently got my first Husky, and 07 WR125, and I have a couple questions. The PO used a 50:1 ratio, this sounds like not enough oil, but then again, I'm coming off a KTM 105sx :lol: What ratio do you guys run? Also, it needs to be re-jetted, I've read its very hard to jet the TMX right, so should I even bother, or will it have no affect? The bike runs great, but there is a lot of spooge, like, A LOT. The plug is black, and in 0 degree c weather, as soon as it starts the choke needs to be turned off. I'm thinking pilot jet is too rich, but I'm probably wrong :P Lastly, are there any have-to-do mods, to make the bike run better, make it more bulletproof? (Don't say switch the carb to a PWK :lol: I'm already contemplating it :busted:

Thanks for all your help!
 
get a WB +40 kit :D

it makes it a WB 165

the kit is a complete top end job and it should be combined with a 200 pipe (good option is special prepared Fatty for this kit)
get in contact with Motosportz to get the finer details

currently there is some testing going on with APt smart carb and lectron carb

might be a better thing as an airstriker (look at the smart carb thread)

warning****************************************

some plastic surgery might be involved in order to put your grin on your face :p


pre mix ration I run is 1: 35

with a good fresh top end spoodge is manageable with an original carb

when top end wears out it get worse.

Robert-Jan
 
I have the same bike as you, run 50:1 amsoil Interceptor with no spooge.Sounds like you need to work on your jetting.I did put a FMF fatty on it and a PWK 38mm with RB didvider plate and my bike runs awesome.
 
Idacurt said:
I have the same bike as you, run 50:1 amsoil Interceptor with no spooge.Sounds like you need to work on your jetting.I did put a FMF fatty on it and a PWK 38mm with RB didvider plate and my bike runs awesome.
Click to expand...

So 50:1 is fine then... What kind of riding do you do? Fast, high RPM, or slow 1-2 gear? Also, if you don't mind, where and how much was the PWK?

I was reading a lot about the lectron and apt, and the die cast apt could be the answer, and i could put it on other bikes! Not to sure about the lectron though, not much info about it.

One last question, do you guys run rotella in the tranny? I did it with my ktm, and I still have a lot left....
 
I run rotella in tranny, and I wouldn't run 50:1 but that's just me... 40:1 is what i run, and the manual says 33:1.
 
30-50:1 will all work fine with good oil like Amsoil. I have had issues with other oils like Redline and Silkolene but Amsoil and spectro seem to not care much about ratios. I un about 40:1 Amsoil Dominator. Rotella or any other good motor oil is fine. I run Delvac 1300 which is similar to Rotella (Diesel oil) and I find I like how the bikes shifts better with that. For some reason I don't like Amsoil motor oil as it seems to make it shift harder. As for jetting you can make the TMX work but it always seems like you are chasing it. The PWK is far EZer to jet and less finicky about conditions. The APT carb rules but is expensive and the CNC version is HUGE. he Lectron is getting tested when it gets here.
 
Thanks for all the info!

Have you guys ever heard of PJ1 Silverfire oil? It was on sale, so I bought 3 litres of it...... If anything, I'll put it into the boat :busted:
 
Alex_9 said:
Are there any mods that should be done to the bike, to make it better?
Click to expand...

An FMF pipe will make it run harder.

The suspension is the weak link on that bike IMHO. Those 45mm forks are OK at best. The Racetech Gold valves fixed mine and there are other solutions as well but most say the base valve int he fork does not flow enough making them harsh. The gold valves fixed that for me.

The 165 kit rules if you have the coin.

I like steering stabilizers on my 125's.

Seat concepts seat makes life much EZer

Good bike as is but can be made better.
 
Skid plate,mine has all kinds of dents so it must work!
What is your gearing and what kind of riding do you do?
 
Oh, I forgot to mention, it has a guts racing seat, with a bump, handguards with bonz mounts, scorpion skidplate, a really quiet silencer (it says husqvarna on the body, and magnum on the endcap) but, it has the stock pipe.

I'm not sure on the gearing, I think I have a 12 front and i don't know about the rear. I'll count and tell tomorrow.

The kind of riding I do, ranges from tight singletrack, to hillclimbs, to fast trails.
 
50:1 for my 2009 165. 38.5 pilot jet....... The 165 kit deals with the terrible flat spot mid-revs the 2009 bikes have...... forks springs from a TE310 (45nm)and service is all ive done for my 50mm oc zocchi forks (130mm air gap). Rear shock i've a YZF 55nm rear spring and linkage serviced, but the shock bearings need sorting.......fitted a 2012 tc449 front brake, big improvement and one finger pressure on the lever is enough to lift the rear wheel off the floor.
 
Alex_9 said:
Oh, I forgot to mention, it has a guts racing seat, with a bump, handguards with bonz mounts, scorpion skidplate, a really quiet silencer (it says husqvarna on the body, and magnum on the endcap) but, it has the stock pipe.

I'm not sure on the gearing, I think I have a 12 front and i don't know about the rear. I'll count and tell tomorrow.

The kind of riding I do, ranges from tight singletrack, to hillclimbs, to fast trails.
Click to expand...

That's the kind of riding I do also.I have a 12/52 gear set up,plenty of power low mid but not so great when you want to do above 50mph(high rpm)riding on roads.Gearing and the pwk carb gave me the best payback,I would think the Lectron or smartcarb would be a step above that and make the bike perfect.
 
Idacurt said:
That's the kind of riding I do also.I have a 12/52 gear set up,plenty of power low mid but not so great when you want to do above 50mph(high rpm)riding on roads.Gearing and the pwk carb gave me the best payback,I would think the Lectron or smartcarb would be a step above that and make the bike perfect.
Click to expand...

With the 12/52 setup, does the front end come up with a flick of throttle? Also, isn't the sixth gear very tall?
 
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