• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

Won’t Run Once Warmed Up

D

Desmodronik

Husqvarna
I have a 2009 TE610 that has done just over 2000 k’s. It starts fine when cold but will not continue to run once warmed up (after a couple of minutes). Key off, then on it will start but runs rough, cannot be ridden. Is there something I should be looking at? I changed the fuel pump and filters - didn’t make any difference.
 
Sensor integrity can be checked with a multimeter. I can dig out my spare and check resistance values if you want to go that route. Checked and sensor reads approx. 3000 ohms @ 20 deg.C and decreases as temperature increases.
 
Put your state and location in. Maybe someone with iBeat could help or point you to a source/shop.
 
willie said:
Sensor integrity can be checked with a multimeter. I can dig out my spare and check resistance values if you want to go that route. Checked and sensor reads approx. 3000 ohms @ 20 deg.C and decreases as temperature increases.
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Hey Willie, I’ve check the coolant sensor. The values are close to what you suggested. About 2.8k ohms @ about 20 deg reducing with temperature increase. Should coolant leak from the coolant sensor hole? It didn’t leak at all but coolant was visible. What do you suggest next?
 
Have no experience working on fuel injected motorcycles but sounds like engine is running rich. Could be caused by leaky injector or maybe TPS. I can only suggest checking injector leakage by observing it with key on and fuel pump running to pressurize injector. Maybe someone with more experience with can chime in. Coolant may or may not leak with sensor removed. No issue there.
 
willie said:
Have no experience working on fuel injected motorcycles but sounds like engine is running rich. Could be caused by leaky injector or maybe TPS. I can only suggest checking injector leakage by observing it with key on and fuel pump running to pressurize injector. Maybe someone with more experience with can chime in. Coolant may or may not leak with sensor removed. No issue there.
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Thanks Willie, I’ll move on the the injectors.
 
IBeat anyone? Or can someone steer me in the direction to buy one. It appears the place that supplied them previously no longer operates.
 
Page 30 over on the Ibeat thread to get you sorted on the cable. I bought a set and easy hookup. For the program look in the later pages for someone hosting the program online and grab a copy and an old laptop to run it. Look for codes and then set to Dyno Bob's fuel numbers to get the fueling correct. Sounds more difficult than it is, the headache is amassing the 3 required pieces. Even easier if someone local to you already has an Ibeat set up to use.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/the-ibeat-thread.44621/page-30
 
kirbybikes said:
Page 30 over on the Ibeat thread to get you sorted on the cable. I bought a set and easy hookup. For the program look in the later pages for someone hosting the program online and grab a copy and an old laptop to run it. Look for codes and then set to Dyno Bob's fuel numbers to get the fueling correct. Sounds more difficult than it is, the headache is amassing the 3 required pieces. Even easier if someone local to you already has an Ibeat set up to use.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/the-ibeat-thread.44621/page-30
Click to expand...
Thanks kirbybikes
 
davethegoat said:
Did you clean the injector?
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Hi davethegoat, I’ve moved on from the injector. I managed to get all the ibeat stuff set up and there’s no faults apparent. I’m steering towards the pickup on the “flywheel” behind the left cover. I checked it and it appeared that there had been contact between the pickup and the flywheel. I slightly enlarged the mounting holes and refitted. It started fine and I thought I had cured it as it ran longer than it had previously. I’ll have another go at adjusting the pickup to see if that’s the problem. Stay tuned.
 
I found the fault. It was the “gear shift position sensor” wire contacting the back of the exhaust. Only made contact once the exhaust heated up. If this wire “grounds” the bike stops. May be worth checking as this was like it from new. See pic.
 
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