What kind of steering damper do you use?

[street2dirt]

have a Scott's on the 300(09) but don't feel like I need one on the TXC310. Not sure what my settings are, I change depending on how many palmettos roots are on the course....

 

[TE in RC]

Old style Scotts that was rebuilt by Scotts. I adjust as I need to.

 

[MorganD]

Got GPR4 and have used it about 10 times in snow.
Think I'll have more use of it when the spring arrives.

 

[Huskynoobee]

Mine is an old fashioned arm system. Left arm, right arm, modulate right wrist.

 

[Mike Rotella]

Race a quad for 13 years like I did. Then your dirtbike will feel like a Cadillac and you wont need a damper.

 

[Coffee]

Mine is an old fashioned arm system. Left arm, right arm, modulate right wrist.

Yep, I use an 'Invisible Damper ®' also.

While I would not mind having one, it is not in the budget, nor does it seem that important for where I tend to ride these days..

 

[Tinken]

I started this thread but was curious what everyone used before I posted. I use the Scott's sub mount damper. This raises my handlebars nicely and is what I needed. My settings are full-sweep 90° lock to lock, 7 clicks out on low speed like Aaron8's, this is pretty stiff. Normally, you never touch the high speed setting, but a little known secret on the Scott's is that, the stronger the low setting, the less sensitive the high becomes. So, with 7 clicks out, I had almost no high speed help. Ty set my high speed to 1/2 turn out. This locks my bars straight when I hit something at high speed. Both the Scott's and the Motosportz have zero or less dampening as you move to center which makes your front end want to straighten automatically. This is recommended for high speed riding.

Most of time, I'm usually just putt-ing around goofing off, using up my low speed setting. But when I'm out training with Stacy, we ride through the desert pretty fast. G-outs and ruts at 65+ are frightening/dangerous without the damper. First day I took my 511 out and without the damper, I went down on a CORE race track and I could of really used that high speed setting haha.

 

[henson802]

Mine is an old fashioned arm system. Left arm, right arm, modulate right wrist.

Same here... are they really necessary if you don't take the bike above 50 mph? I know I've never had issues on my TE 250 - and have heard people say they shake good compartively but I never notice a big deal unless I'm buzzing the engine going 45-50 mph... I seen one of my coworkers turn on his Harley and saw his handlebars vibrate like 2 inches in both directions. Now THAT needs a steering damper haha

 

[robertaccio]

Our hardcore crew has either removed them or has them at set a minimal settings, we are just always in single track and technical riding areas read- slower speeds for the most part. If I was making a habit of Nat H&H like in 09 on TXC450 the GPR was in full effect across the valleys. We have found in the tighter stuff the damper actually makes us more tired and arm pumping from the fluid effect, rather that just flicking the thing around from corner to corner. It pure feel though no science, are we faster? IDK weve never timed the sections with and without the dampers. But less tired in the long run = faster.

 

[Johnrg]

Various non rotary units on road racers and until I feel the need usually go without. I can see the benefit but want to know if there is a unit that doesn't raise my bars as stock. For once I have a bike that fits me well and not willing to have to raise the bars just to fit the damper. If I was tank slapping and feeling endangered I'de bolt up anything, but who makes the perfect damper that fits without other mods?

 

[Tinken]

who makes the perfect damper that fits without other mods?

I stole these images from some of the sponsors here (BRP & Motosportz).

 

[Aaron8]

I started this thread but was curious what everyone used before I posted. I use the Scott's sub mount damper. This raises my handlebars nicely and is what I needed. My settings are full-sweep 90° lock to lock, 7 clicks out on low speed like Aaron8's, this is pretty stiff. Normally, you never touch the high speed setting, but a little known secret on the Scott's is that, the stronger the low setting, the less sensitive the high becomes. So, with 7 clicks out, I had almost no high speed help. Ty set my high speed to 1/2 turn out. This locks my bars straight when I hit something at high speed. Both the Scott's and the Motosportz have zero or less dampening as you move to center which makes your front end want to straighten automatically. This is recommended for high speed riding.

Most of time, I'm usually just putt-ing around goofing off, using up my low speed setting. But when I'm out training with Stacy, we ride through the desert pretty fast. G-outs and ruts at 65+ are frightening/dangerous without the damper. First day I took my 511 out and without the damper, I went down on a CORE race track and I could of really used that high speed setting haha.

I'll have to try that. Thanks!

 

[HUSKYnXJnWI]

I am still very happy with my Motosportz Damper! I have ridden the same model bike without it and can really notice the difference.
I have mine set at half- I did change the oil, which is super easy, and went to a heavier oil 15wtSAE. I rarely adjust it. It works without knowing its there.

re-posting my review from 2010... http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/motosportz-steering-damper-review.14526/

Quick review of MOTOSPORTZ Steering Damper on my Husqvarna TE450-​

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This is my first Steering Damper. A lot of guys I ride with both have them and don’t. I never hear guys with dampers go out of their way to say how good they are unless specifically asked. Guys without Dampers often claim they are unnecessary and claim negative aspects yet have no experience. The non dampener guys have always been most influential on me and it didn’t help that the damper guys kept pretty quiet in the discussions (bench racing). NOW I know the answer and know why the damper guys were always quiet: they feel guilty… that’s how great my Motosportz Damper is anyway!​

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Installation was super easy and I was impressed by the forethought and craftsmanship. I like how the Motosprtz Damper is not in the way and appears made for the bike because if its low profile and streamlined unlike many other set ups. I have the IMS 3 gallon tank so that was the only slight challenge - this particular tank for the 2008-2010 dual cam bikes (except the xlite), were made very tight to the headstock. IMS apparently overlooked that detail- otherwise its been a fine aftermarket tank. Some IMS tanks have more and some less clearance in this area- you don't need much to use the Motosportz set up. But mine required some slight modification like Darkside (CH Member) had completed on his bike. I took the tank off and drained all the fuel and let it sit for a few days to dry. I used a heat gun and flattened the very front of the tank by pressing it with a piece of steel once the plastic just reached a temp where it would mold slightly. I went slow and was surprised how little I really needed to change. I sanded a little with a Dremel just to clean it up a little. I did not take any material away from the original really- just moved it for the most part.​

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I was happy with my bike’s suspension and the way it handles. The Motosportz Damper just adds more to the bike. I couldn’t really notice any adjustment time on my part. I originally set it just up from full “low” setting then slowly turned it up- I have it at about 2/3 of the way to the middle setting. On the stand you can notice its working resistance change when you turn the adjustment lever easily. I couldn’t notice it on the trail. It didn’t hamper me in tight sections or anywhere. Everything felt normal accept my bike didn’t care about ruts and trail trash that would normally knock you off track or deflect your bike: Absolute stability at high and low speed. I was surprised how I could concentrate on my line more than worrying about avoiding some ruts and trail trash. My bike did well at absorbing and maintaining stability but not like this. I have ridden other bikes that would easily deflect and you end up really looking for things to avoid- this is the opposite!​

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I have put about 300 miles of mixed terrain since installation mid October- dry to wet, loose, tacky, pavement, plowed fields, rocky climbs and downhill’s, jumps, 45’ logs, 90’ logs, small and large stumps, rutted sand, grass tracks, and even what appeared to be whatI call a “Miricle Grow Top Soil factory field” (like 3 feet deep of wet foam chunks) ruts going in every direction but straight- cept’ me! My assessment is the product is top notch! Now I plan to try it at LAB2V-2010!!!- should help with the high speed sandy sections for sure.​

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Thanks Motosportz!​

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Brad Eggum​

 

[Johnrg]

I stole these images from some of the sponsors here (BRP & Motosportz).

Thanks for pointing them out. I think the front mounts are cleaner as far as the cockpit is concerned for those wanting stock bar height. Waiting for design test/release 4 for low profile use. ;-)

 

[K.Forte']

GPR set at 1-2 most of the time on my Honda,,its saved my butt several times!!!

 

[Motosportz]

Thanks Motosportz!

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Brad Eggum​

No thank you for being a customer and taking the time to write your experience.

 

[Motosportz]

I think the front mounts are cleaner as far as the cockpit is concerned for those wanting stock bar height.

The issues with that type of mounting (front fender) is you have to drill and tap the frame for the frame side lug and I have seen them work loose and make a mess of the holes and frame. Welding the frame lug on is a far better idea IMHO. Also there is a linkage which will always have play and wears out and just is not as positive as directly mounting the arm directly to the pin / frame. Also if you don't install them 100% correct you have more damping force from one side to the other because it is not a symmetrical movement. You also need to hack your number plate which is no big deal but needed. Another big one is I would for sure run some sort of cover on it as shown in that picture a branch or bush could easily adjust the low speed on you which might not end well. They can and do work and I am not crapping on the idea just things to think about that are not completely obvious to the uninitiated.

 

[Johnrg]

The issues with that type of mounting (front fender) is you have to drill and tap the frame for the frame side lug and I have seen them work loose and make a mess of the holes and frame. Welding the frame lug on is a far better idea IMHO. Also there is a linkage which will always have play and wears out and just is not as positive as directly mounting the arm directly to the pin / frame. Also if you don't install them 100% correct you have more damping force from one side to the other because it is not a symmetrical movement. You also need to hack your number plate which is no big deal but needed. Another big one is I would for sure run some sort of cover on it as shown in that picture a branch or bush could easily adjust the low speed on you which might not end well. They can and do work and I am not crapping on the idea just things to think about that are not completely obvious to the uninitiated.

I hear you... The triple clamp mount is best. I guess it's better to see it in the flesh. I guess my concern is the length of the pins/interface and flex or non linearity in action, of the above compared to a lower profile interface. Of course I'm just looking at pictures with a goal of not having a bulk of odds and ends on top of my bars. Bad enough thinking about all those brush guards and their needed clamps, etc...

 

[Motosportz]

I hear you... The triple clamp mount is best. I guess it's better to see it in the flesh. I guess my concern is the length of the pins/interface and flex or non linearity in action, of the above compared to a lower profile interface. Of course I'm just looking at pictures with a goal of not having a bulk of odds and ends on top of my bars. Bad enough thinking about all those brush guards and their needed clamps, etc...

there is for sure a small amount of "wag" on the taller posts for the over the bar mounts. The best solution is the underbar with the lowest rise bars you can find if you want to keep near stock. My damper (Motosportz) is super slim and only raises the bars slightly over a half inch most of which you could get back with low bars if you wanted. Lots of options and ways to tackle the situation.

 

[Johnrg]

there is for sure a small amount of "wag" on the taller posts for the over the bar mounts. The best solution is the underbar with the lowest rise bars you can find if you want to keep near stock. My damper (Motosportz) is super slim and only raises the bars slightly over a half inch most of which you could get back with low bars if you wanted. Lots of options and ways to tackle the situation.

Good point. Definitely bars can be changed and that would be the best setup in my case.